Macro vibe reduction?

...Finally, this is a work in progress. Hopefully you'll make improvements to your video. No guarantees are implied, this is just sharing my efforts....it may not work for you. If done properly you should see marked results and with further effort epic results...;) who knows until you try... I've had fairly amazing results since the above posted video as well as worsened, but then I'm just messing around with various causes and effects to expand my knowledge. I'm interested in how gimbals work or not.
Thanks Rich. Interesting how you need a full paragraph of disclaimers alone...
 
I feel compelled to make a disclaimer on most of my posts. I just don't want someone to think that this is "the" answer or that I'm an expert. I'm just messing around and sharing ideas, it is what it is...
 
It is stock, I have it secured to the front of the bird with double sided tape.
Have heated it at the corners where it bends
have not done the gusset yet, but that is on my list too
 
Rich- is the black material around the power cable some kind of shielding?
If so, obviously it can't be removed to make the cable more flexible.
 
Rich- is the black material around the power cable some kind of shielding?
If so, obviously it can't be removed to make the cable more flexible.
It's the factory wrap, but my opinion is that the loop idea provides enough freedom to not be an issue with the black casing. Happy to be corrected however and have seen all the prior attempts to source as the problem.
 
It's the factory wrap, but my opinion is that the loop idea provides enough freedom to not be an issue with the black casing. Happy to be corrected however and have seen all the prior attempts to source as the problem.
Ok, I'll go with the loop.
 
Mine is a Prime Day bundle, and the data cable on those (or mine at least) is different. It is the stiff data cable but with individual wires, no black flex casing around it, and it isn't soldered directly to the mainboard it has a connector block that I couldn't find in the docs.

Does anyone know the part # for the single row 8 pin mustard/gold coloured connector on the Solo mainboard for the gimbal data cable?

(I can see the the gimbal balls are packed a bit stiffer, is there also sorbothane/moon gel sandwiched under the gimbal board?)
 
Mine is a Prime Day bundle, and the data cable on those (or mine at least) is different. It is the stiff data cable but with individual wires, no black flex casing around it, and it isn't soldered directly to the mainboard it has a connector block that I couldn't find in the docs.

Does anyone know the part # for the single row 8 pin mustard/gold coloured connector on the Solo mainboard for the gimbal data cable?

(I can see the the gimbal balls are packed a bit stiffer, is there also sorbothane/moon gel sandwiched under the gimbal board?)
If you can get a photo of your setup it would be interesting to see the data cable and possibly we could ID the connector.

In my experience anything sandwiched between the gimbal board, moongel or sorbo, induces jello. If you are referring to my photo above, the blue material inside the isolators, that is memory foam and in my case it is supporting the isolators.
 
9508ee5e1752083bcca214d32f431e77.jpg


Here is my mod for the gimbal, i did mod the HDMI cable and the data cable of the gimbal.

And re route the cable from the top of the board and tied it with rubber band to the side of the body (non of the cable touch the gimbal)

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 
Ok, here's the requested photo.

1. Supporting the HDMI cable is shown at the ferrite core, the gray tape (3M 70) is about 1/2" width in this photo. I've gone back to the 1" width as I had originally, just worked better in lateral flight. I use the battery tray to pinch the tape over the body opening, seems to hold well and allows for further adjustment.

As said previously, the tape allows the cable to float. How the cable floats is not based on a measurement, meaning you'll need to mess with too little and too much....no math here, its all trial and error. The main idea is to keep the cable off the gimbal and then out of reach of the body. The gimbal has a normal movement of about 1/8" in all directions, aggressive movements is about 3/16".

When "stringing" the tape just be mindful of what the hdmi cable is doing when you move the gimbal around by hand. Do realize, the cable is running around at the narrow portion of the body after the first turn from the gimbal. Wall contact is common there and not good, forming the hdmi is helpful to reduce this contact and should be done prior to placing the tape.

2. Another had asked about the power cable placement. In the photo it is unplugged, basically it is ready to plug straight in. I think a bigger loop works better, shown is a narrow loop as I was messing with the hdmi tape install. Again the idea is to float the cable into the connector, if you're off by a 1/4" your still good as the cable has the loop. Closer is better however. Keep the cable off the gimbal motor and out of the gps bay and you're good to go.

Finally, this is a work in progress. Hopefully you'll make improvements to your video. No guarantees are implied, this is just sharing my efforts....it may not work for you. If done properly you should see marked results and with further effort epic results...;) who knows until you try... I've had fairly amazing results since the above posted video as well as worsened, but then I'm just messing around with various causes and effects to expand my knowledge. I'm interested in how gimbals work or not.

View attachment 4338
I like your work.
I try to place the cable in your kind but with double-sided tape some time ago but no results. I noticed that you have the original DATA cable,In my opinion is a very rigid cable ; I have changed the cables with some softer, I removed the protection of pvc.I will try to position the cable with insulating tape, to leave room for movement that is not to be fixed.
 
I noticed that you have the original DATA cable,In my opinion is a very rigid cable ;
No doubt it is rigid, but the loop allows a little more freedom of movement without heavy mod'ing. I am looking into a different cable as a replacement. Rather than individual wires, my want is a highly flexible jacketed cable. Buying a foot is out of the question, so I wait.

By no means is my method correct or that there isn't better, I appreciate hearing of your solution (pictures would be nice). There is a guy (Harper) over on Vimeo with some really stable video, but I haven't read what he's done to make it so. There in lies the problem, nobody shares their solution. I share because I want to see others improve their experiences and make some epic videos...a lot of talented people flying with Solo.
 
Ich, that looks gnarly. How's your video out put quality, any recent examples?
here, this is the recent video.
no crop, no stabilize, just put them together and upload.

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here, this is the recent video. no crop, no stabilize, just put them together and upload.
That actually looks pretty good.... You have the HDMI cable jacket stripped, did you place the cable behind the post as well?

What is the white ball thing that enters the screen from the left?
 
Yes, i route the cables around make sure nothing touch the gimbal and i don't use any ear plug or moongel.

The white things on the leg is just a Styrofoam that i bought ro replace the extension leg, cos here in Indonesia hard to find the extension leg.
ee8170c641a553f99056f98a54e5b579.jpg


Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 
Very resourceful. I noticed your landing was quick, yet the camera didn't jump around very much on contact with the ground. Seems they are very effective or the gimbal is fairly solid. I may give those a try as well...Bagan Balls....;)
 
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