Macro vibe reduction?

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I thought I’d offer up my observation and work around for the factory HDMI cable. I’ve been flying my bird with this mod since October and have had no structural issues. I assume this mod would void your warranty, so try at your own risk. Just sharing what I’ve done to date in reducing vibration on the camera.

The whole point of the mod is to reduce the cable’s ability to contact the vibration damper or body. This has helped reduce macro vibes on my bird, not saying it will with yours. Images shown are of a replacement shell to show the effect and the support, without the main board installed. I have not mod’d this particular shell yet.

In the picture below is the HDMI cable making the first important bend around the damper, as seen from the top. It’s hard to see, but the cable is hitting the main board support. The gusset aligns to where the cable is contacted by the support. For both images shown, left is the nose of the bird

In the second picture you can see how far the support comes forward, image shot from the gimbal bay angle. Basically the spacing from the damper to the support is just enough for the cable to fit through. However if you look at the first image you’ll see the cable is being forced back towards the gimbal, it’s making contact with the support. I’m even using a heat formed cable sweep to make a nice +90 degree turn. It’s restricting the gimbal’s movement and allowing vibration to resonate through the cable to the floating gimbal…then to the camera.

Basically I’ve removed a portion of the support depicted by the gold ink, second image. You have to cut back the gusset as well to provide ample clearance for the cable to make the bend without contact to the support or dampers. I used a Dremel with a grinding stone to remove the material, worked slowly so as not to cut off too much of the support...

SOLO_FRAME-STRUT_CONTACT-HDMI.jpg

SOLO_FRAME-STRUT_CONTACT-HDMI_3.jpg

Edit to add: Found some photos of my original mod show the material cut away.
SOLO_FRAME-STRUT_CONTACT-HDMI_4.jpg

Here is the effect from the HDMI cable hitting the support...


And finally, here is the results without the HDMI cable hitting the support....as the portion described was removed.

 
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Hi
Rich

I made the same mood for my gimbal and the vibration is reduced but not disappeared.
I combined your mod with relish 3d mod and is ok but I am not 100% satisfied.
I try also the Relish hdmi cable but with my GPH4 black after 10-20 sec. I got black screen; with original 3dr HDMI cable the video is OK.
I do not what to do to get rid of vibes.
 
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Well this mod was only applicable if you are using the stock HDMI cable. And it only reduces one of the causes of macro vibes. I have no experience with the ribbon cables.

The isolator mod I posted into the compression versus tension thread, is the mod I'm using to further reduce vibes. Go look at that, if you haven't already. There are a few here that have tried the isolator mod and have had good results, in my opinion.

But I will say that the consensus by the "experts", about fully eliminating vibes in video, is stabilizing in software as a post production. @pyrate thread for video stab is a confirmation of that fact. I'd suggest looking at those examples as well.

Send a link to one of your videos, it'll help me and others see what you are experiencing.
 
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I use the stock HDMI cable, but I combined your mod ( from above) with relish3D mod (
) for better results, but it still vibrate.
I use the moongel and earplugs introduced in damping balls.
now I will try other damping balls to see the results.

With ribbon HDMI cable I have another issue ( that why I kept stock HDMI cable): with ribbon HDMI and GoPro H3+ Black was OK no problem but still vibrate; with GoPro H4 Black the issue is: if I start rec with 1080 and 24,25, 50, 90 and 120FPS, after I take off in 15- 30 seconds I got black screen ( I do not see anything on my tablet or phone) but the camera is recording. If I land and shut down the motors the screen is back.

I put a link with the video after I make your mode.
 
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Keep in mind, this mod is only to reduce the ability for the stock HDMI cable to contact the support post or gimbal isolator ball. You then need to consider how the Data cable is interacting with the gimbal. Several solution have been offered up to either re-locate or mod the data cable to reduces its influence on the gimbal.

Sometimes we can apply additional materials to dampen the vibes and actually add more vibes, and at a different frequency. For the most part the Solo gimbal works very well as is, so a little mod'ing is better than adding too much.

In my experience, the Black screen issue is related to a poor HDMI connection. At the GoPro, gimbal or main board connection. I would insure those internal connection are seated properly. And in the case of the main board with stock HDMI cable, re-install the tie-wrap to secure that connection if it had been removed at any time. Many times re-seating the GoPro HDMI connector will work to resolve a black screen, if all the other connection are secure. In your case, I would suspect the main board HDMI connection.
 
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I will try anothers balls but not the 3DR Solo for the moment.
After I see what happen I will buy original Solo balls.
In Europe the parts that find in online store is propellers, gimbals and battery packs and I must to order from USA or another place. Is expensive shipping costs and custom taxes.
 
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Good luck with alternative isolator balls, none of the DJI various balls will work fwiw. Either too short or too small in diameter. You'll need a 9 or 10mm neck diameter. Look at the details, but I believe HobbyKing and as well as BangGood has sizes that fit. But I have never used them, so can't be positive.

Sorry to hear that your parts for Solo are difficult to acquire.
 
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Yes I knoy about DJI balls , I try it allready and is very short.
I find at Hobbyking 2 models and I wait to come.

Question: - After you make the 4 holes (1/4" ; 6mm) in Solo balls how was the video ?
Thanks
 
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Question: - After you make the 4 holes (1/4" ; 6mm) in Solo balls how was the video ?
From my testing, it's a marked improvement for the micro vibes once the foam is installed, but its main idea was to allow the gimbal to pivot more like a pendulum. The pendulum effect reduces the stuttering seen in the videos by allowing the gimbal to sway with the pitch/roll of the bird rather than back and forth on a 2D plane.

It's actually hard to explain with just words, pictures of what's going on prior to the mod and then after would make better sense. I just don't have the interest to prove further what the mod does. You'll just have to try it or not....
 
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definite improvement esp in aggressive flying
my solo is on the new beta firmware and much of the 2.4 instability is gone
took some good shots yesterday, a lot of it would have required no post stabilization
 
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Old thread I know, but worth revisiting or updating what I learned this weekend...

I was doing a regular maintenance check, basically taking the bird apart and then reassembling. Checking solder joints, mounting screws and a general look over for anything showing wear. This included removing the hdmi cable among other things. This disassembly gives me an opportunity to evaluate what mods I've done and to rethink my methods...

Like many here I had secured my HDMI cable at the ferrite core to the front of the body cavity. Typical hot glue or silicone adhesive, basically to keep the cable off the gimbal top plate once everything is installed. I found that this method inhibits the gimbal's movement to a slight degree, as the cable was not given complete freedom of movement. I mean the cable would flex or float, but then only so far...

Anyway I tried a different approach in supporting the hdmi cable off the gimbal's top plate. I wrapped a silicone tape around the ferrite core and then pinched the tail of tape between the body and the battery tray to secure. Basically this just holds up the cable rather than firmly mounting it to a fixed point.

Surprised by the results... Flying with just a CP filter and using a little EV Comp in the mid-day sun, the normal bright reflected points were greatly reduced. Concrete, auto paint and just typical shinny objects did not flare out in the videos as much. The overall image is just crisper.

I've always suspected the flare in video was caused by these little vibes, this is further confirmation. The other benefit was the low light video, last evening I was able to test this setup and the video wasn't as soft from the longer exposure...Not perfect by any means, just better.

Anyway, here's an example video using an EV Comp of 0.0. 2.7K 60FPS M Protune GP-Color ISO max 400 SRP-CP filter. I just adjusted color, contrast and exposure on this clip to see what could be done straight from GP Studio with no stab. I may have over done the editing, but was looking to push for the long shot rather than near by. Better skills and software, would more than likely make even better.

 
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@ Rich West: a picture would be helpful. I wonder how silicon tape look???
This is a very good improvement. I still have a micro vibration on my Solo when I raise or lower flight level or in some case when is in loiter. It is very annoying when I see others that are excellent shooting.

I noticed that gimbal is very sensitive to dust. If I take of the dust that comes off the ground affect the operation of gimbals and I must tear down the plates and clean.
 
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That is David Tans video which relied heavily on the ribbon cable as part of the solution.
After buring through 3 ribbon cables, I can tell you Rich's method is much better
 
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a picture would be helpful. I wonder how silicon tape look???
Nazgul, it's still a work in progress. I was having vibes when flying sideways, so I've adjusted but haven't test flown enough yet.

The main thing was about hard fixing of the HDMI cable at the front of the body. Not the correct method, as the cable needs to float to reduce those micro vibes further.
 
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To add, I tried several things over the weekend, supporting the cable at different points and with various materials. Being that half the gimbal is hidden, when the battery tray is removed, it hard to visualize what's going on under the main board. Without question the hdmi cable is the major influence. Now how to tame it and with repeatable results.

I thought for the longest time that the camera was the issue, why my questions in how my videos looked with each progression. From the results above and now understanding further by trial and error, I can see that the camera is fine and is capable of much better results.

I'll take a photo of my install and post here this week. The only unique feature of the silicone tape is that it is self-fusing, no adhesive is used. I'd imagine a thin/flat rubber band could work. Again a photo would help to further the conversation.....
 
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i don´t know if you have seen this project here:

#‎SOLOMOD - Reducing Solo Gimbal Vibrations (V1) - Hackster.io

maybe you can grab some ideas of it
Several have concluded that moon-gel will soften and "melt" into a gooey mess. Why this happens,...i suspect it is absorbing moisture from the air rather than being a heat related issue. In either case David Tan's solution is no longer valid with moon-gel. I tried his solution using sorbothane and my results worsened, not saying the sorbo was an applicable replacement however. Supporting the board just was not the answer...and still isn't.

I have every variation of sorbothane for duro and thicknesses. Likely 50# of the material. I love the material, but it needs to be compressed in order to be effective. The gimbal does not provide enough weight/compression to allow sorbo to work its magic. I have made replacement isolators from sorbo, the stock silicone balls were more effective overall...
 
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...I have every variation of sorbothane for duro and thicknesses. Likely 50# of the material. I love the material, ...
You must have been a very wealthy man prior to your Sorbothane acquisitions... :D
 
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Ok, here's the requested photo.

1. Supporting the HDMI cable is shown at the ferrite core, the gray tape (3M 70) is about 1/2" width in this photo. I've gone back to the 1" width as I had originally, just worked better in lateral flight. I use the battery tray to pinch the tape over the body opening, seems to hold well and allows for further adjustment.

As said previously, the tape allows the cable to float. How the cable floats is not based on a measurement, meaning you'll need to mess with too little and too much....no math here, its all trial and error. The main idea is to keep the cable off the gimbal and then out of reach of the body. The gimbal has a normal movement of about 1/8" in all directions, aggressive movements is about 3/16".

When "stringing" the tape just be mindful of what the hdmi cable is doing when you move the gimbal around by hand. Do realize, the cable is running around at the narrow portion of the body after the first turn from the gimbal. Wall contact is common there and not good, forming the hdmi is helpful to reduce this contact and should be done prior to placing the tape.

2. Another had asked about the power cable placement. In the photo it is unplugged, basically it is ready to plug straight in. I think a bigger loop works better, shown is a narrow loop as I was messing with the hdmi tape install. Again the idea is to float the cable into the connector, if you're off by a 1/4" your still good as the cable has the loop. Closer is better however. Keep the cable off the gimbal motor and out of the gps bay and you're good to go.

Finally, this is a work in progress. Hopefully you'll make improvements to your video. No guarantees are implied, this is just sharing my efforts....it may not work for you. If done properly you should see marked results and with further effort epic results...;) who knows until you try... I've had fairly amazing results since the above posted video as well as worsened, but then I'm just messing around with various causes and effects to expand my knowledge. I'm interested in how gimbals work or not.

PA100064.JPG
 
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