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  1. pyrate

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    it is not that hard, I had not touched a soldering iron in over 15 years
    brushed up a little on some skills and only killed one of my pods
     
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  2. pyrate

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    the key is solder removal. get your pad solder points clean before you attempt resoldering
     
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  3. Greg Parker

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    pyrate,

    Easy for you to say! I appreciate your encouragement and the instructions you and Roland have supplied. I have built and rebuild my own quad before so it is not so much a lack of soldering knowledge but rather the fine motor skill required with those tight pads.

    One question though if you don't mind. You mentioned using desoldering tool. Did you use the vacuum type or would one use a desoldering wick? I have both.
     
  4. pyrate

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    I used both, the pump initially and then the wick
    When it came time to solder back on I used a third hand with alligators to hold the wire on the pad and applied the solder
     
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  5. tonyb

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    This is awesome, thanks for all the info provided here.
    I am leaning towards T-Motors more and more.
    Question about ESCs, from what i could find the stock ones are only 20A, is it possible to upgrade to 30A ones and possibly retain the LEDs.
    I hate that they integrated them so you cannot easily replace...
    How are they driven, do they still use PWM or is it something proprietary? Why are there so many wires in the connector to the ESCs. I guess some of the wires are for controlling LEDs.
     
  6. pyrate

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    someone is working on empty pods, that would allow you to use any esc but the led would not be addressed
     
  7. Jubalr

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    Many of the wires are LED related. Why are you trying to go to 30a? The solo esc are only getting 4-5a ea in standard flight/hover. I'm still flying the stock ESC from May of 2015 on T-motors.
     
  8. RichWest

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    I have one of those jeweler's hoods with magnification, helps to see the fine stuff. A steady hand is not the issue until you hit the pad, let the iron do the work. I only used solder wick and no-clean flux to de-solder. The esc boards are well made, solder mask was very reliable. Again flux is your friend, clean after the work is done.

    Everything is relative, but the task is not difficult. Rebuilding a pod is just tedious work with lots of details.
     
  9. Dogman1973

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    cleanup hopefully better than 3DR did on the solo mainboards! :p
     
  10. Gren

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    Hi tuesday. I'm making my way through the Forums looking to see if Solo owners have done up-grades to motors and props to enable heavier payload capability. Before I have to start looking for a more adaptable and capable drone, I want to find out what the ultimate max payload is for Solo. Would you know what direction(s) to take..? Many thanks
     
  11. pyrate

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    you are not going to squeeze significant improvements out of the stock propulsion system limited by escs and prop size
    best bet is to transfer the main board to a larger air frame. then you still have to solve for the magic gimbal
    Look for Jublars post
     
    Solo Keith likes this.
  12. CS223

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    The specs say the Solo payload capacity is 1lb. I don't remember reading if that includes the gimbal and camera or not. There's a YouTube video of someone testing 'lifting capacity only' in excess of 3lbs.
     
  13. RichWest

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    To include the gimbal....as it is a payload item.
     
  14. RichWest

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    FYI, found T-Motor MT-2216 V2 series EZO bearing sets on sale at ReadyMadeRC. They also sell shafts, circlips and spacers for the 2216 V2's 4mm components. Get them while they are in stock...I believe these are on clearance.

    fwiw, I bought both the EZO and EZO-German versions, because I could. Now in hand, the EZO-G's have thicker races and are labeled V3. Have no clue if any performance or life improvements are gained by one over the other, but assume there is less lateral tolerances with the G's. Meaning shaft alignment between the two bearings would be critical...proper installation tools advised when pressing the bearings into the motors.

    Search Results : Ready Made RC LLC, The Leader in All Things FPV, RC, and Beyond
    Search Results : Ready Made RC LLC, The Leader in All Things FPV, RC, and Beyond
     
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  15. RichWest

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    Yah, no I don't think so... I bought the shafts because they were a buck-fity a pair. I hope I never need them.
     
  16. User Name

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    Hey everyone,

    Just noticed GetFPV has the MT-2216 800kv V2s on sale/clearance. Not much, $5 off regular price, but every little bit helps. I had seen the 900s on sale before, but this is the first time I've seen the 800s. I had been wanting to buy a set, and this just pushed me over the top.

    Tiger MT-2216 Multi-Rotor Motor
     
  17. pyrate

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    keep an eye on FPV all the time
    I got my $79 630kv T-motors for 35 bucks. really helped buying 8 of them
     
  18. jcar

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  19. Krs821

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    New Solo owner here. Have about 5 hours on the drone and it sounds like I have a motor issue. I'm looking at these Tiger 800-900kv motors now that I'm afraid the bird will just randomly fall out of the sky. Anybody try snipping the wires from the solo board and attaching a bullet connector rather than soldering or is that a no-no?
     
  20. RichWest

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    Have you taken a motor pod out of Solo yet? It already has a set of bullet connectors and a control connector at the motor pod, no soldering required.

    This thread is discussing changing out the stock motor and re-using the stock esc and motor pod frame. Which requires a one time soldering job for the upgrade....