Is the change in kV (850 -> 900) on the 2216 significant enough to reduce the payload capacity, hover throttle, and runtime? Or are the current-generation motors improved enough with the nicer bearings and improved magnets that I'd still be better off swapping out my stockies?
 
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Several went with 900kV motors as they were similar to the stock at 880kV. From Roland's test results, there was little difference in their performance. The 800kV had slightly better performance.

Hands down the MT series made by T-Motors is a great build, would hope the same from the Lumenier FX's. Bearing quality is high-end EZO. 4mm shaft is the correct size for the 2216 sized motors. The bell design and construction is first quality and sturdy.

I've flown with my 800kV MT's for nearly two years on Solo, best upgrade ever. They have maintained a buttery smooth performance and balance since installed. Much-much better than stock motors.
 
I'm sure you meant "SunnySky"

Ha! Sunnyside is good, but watch out for Lotso.

lotso.jpg
 
Anyone with an opinion on the quality, as compared to, say, T-Motors?

Seems like a subjective question. Is it a question of money or availability to you? What are you looking to gain from changing the motors?

As designed, the SunnySky 2216 have a 1/8" shaft, just like the stock motor. I'm no expert, but they seem anemic now having flown with the T's and their 4mm shafts. My motor balance (bell) has stayed true even after a fairly hard nose-on crash into concrete. In this case bigger was better....

The other key difference is the bearing quality. Low level bearings are inexpensive, but still perform the task. Roland made the point about cheap chinese bearings, they are cheap chinese bearings....you get what you paid for.

Honestly the Sunny's are budget motors at best. I'm sure they'll work fine, but they are made to be inexpensive with little expectation of being great motors.
 
Money is not the issue. Have found online where I can order any of the mentioned motors and was wondering if those who have more experience than I if they felt any was of a higher/lesser quality.
I have already ordered 4 of the Lumenier FX2216-11 900kv V2 motors, and just received them today in fact. Was just considering about ordering 4 of the T-Motor 800kv motors as compared to the Sunnysky 800kv motors.
 
How would you all rate "Sunnyside V2216 800KV" motors?



I used dji stock 2212 engines in a different system. Due to vibration problems I switched with the SunnySky 2216 800 kV motors. SunnySky is pretty good. Especially the vibration levels ... The quality of the bearings is better. Satisfaction caused the promotion to the SunnySky 3508 380kV engines in the new system. In general I am happy with them. I have a SunnySky 2216 800 kV engine which I am considering to use in 3dR Solo in the future, but I will expect the original engines to be a little longer. In theory, I think 2216 800 + 10x5 "propellers will be more efficient.

Important notice: There are imitations of the SunnySky engines. Be careful in this regard.
 
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Just finished my Motor upgrade to 4x Lumenier FX2216-11 900kv V2 motors, they ARE a hell of a lot smoother and quieter.
Forgive a noob question here, what is the difference between 800kv and 900kv motors, and please don't say 100kv?
What is the "kv" a rating of?
 
Kv is a rating that describes RPM per volt. Higher Kv = more RPMs per volt than lower Kv motor.
Take Kv rating and multiply by nominal battery voltage and you'll get a good approximation of how fast it'll turn unloaded.
 
A few posts back, RichWest said that the 800kv motors had a slightly better performance that the 900kv motors.
Better performance how? Longer battery life? More responsive drone?
 
A few posts back, RichWest said that the 800kv motors had a slightly better performance that the 900kv motors.
Better performance how? Longer battery life? More responsive drone?
Lower Kv typically means more torque (but slower acceleration/top speed), and normally means slightly lower amp draw, especially if matched with an appropriate diameter/pitch propeller.
Stator dimensions also play into this apparently, but yeah. Rough rule of thumb is low Kv to swing big/slow/lift (AV/AP platform), and high Kv to swing tiny/light/fast (Racer).
 
OK, thank you. Seems I should have gone with the 800kv motors.
Perhaps for the next upgrade.
 
Lower Kv typically means more torque (but slower acceleration/top speed), and normally means slightly lower amp draw, especially if matched with an appropriate diameter/pitch propeller.
Stator dimensions also play into this apparently, but yeah. Rough rule of thumb is low Kv to swing big/slow/lift (AV/AP platform), and high Kv to swing tiny/light/fast (Racer).
Yeh, that's what I meant to say....;)
A few posts back, RichWest said that the 800kv motors had a slightly better performance that the 900kv motors.
Better performance how? Longer battery life? More responsive drone?

I fly with the 1045 props and I do get some battery benefit, maybe less than a minute more. The 1145's were too slow for my 80 above MSL and humid air. I think I would benefit more from the 900kv motors with the faster prop. For the most part it's subjective, but it is an interesting thought.

If we are talking frequency, vibration frequency, Solo is likely tuned closer to the 900kv with 1045 props. Also the ability to spin up the prop to maintain level is benefited by the faster prop. A tighter flight with consistent vibes.

Curious, what prop adapters are you using? Myself and others have been looking for an alternative to the PA029/030 from T-Motors, prefer 6mm. Then again you could be using CF....
 
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These are the packets from parts I used showing part numbers etc.
The prop adapters say M5 which is incorrect, they are actually M6 and need to be for Solo and Ph props are M6.


Hi I was just texting back n forth with another guy who gave me this link. Wanted to say great job on this I know it’s old but it’s still cool. So I’m interested in doing this same setup. Question is I’m not the best at soldering but wanted to know did you just simply use the solder guns tip to separate the old wires from the esc? And to solder it back was it the same way or did you use flux?

View attachment 1849
 

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