Motors Swapped to T-Motor 2216-12 800kV

pyrate · Jun 2, 2016

Yeah for 60 bucks more I am going to stick with TBS

pyrate · Jun 3, 2016

I am going to be at the beach in three weeks and wanted to shake down these new motors
Ran through 4 batteries very quickly at highspeed
motors barely warm. It is in the uper 70s here today.
I guess they could still fail in 90 degree weather

But hey I am calling that passed
Ran them with APC props, very quiet pretty smooth, wind was bumpy today
Next test Rich's vibration isolation

Even snagged to cables that I can do after the mod to note difference. If conditions ar similar

PdxSteve · Jun 3, 2016

That's the key I think for testing...run as high as you can to get as many amps flowing through the solder joints as possible. Since the spacing tolerance on those pads is so tight, a joint that is too close to other components might not arc at hover speed where it could at higher rpm's and blow the esc.

I still have my T-Motor 2216 900kV's sitting here but have yet to do this mod. So much stuff going on lol.

pyrate · Jun 3, 2016

If your soldering skills are tight, you can kill this

Greg Parker · Jun 3, 2016

pyrate said:
If your soldering skills are tight, you can kill this

pyrate,
Since you are now an expert at this do you want to solder mine?

pyrate · Jun 3, 2016

no expert here, toasted one esc
Have not soldered in 15 years.
I did get four done and learned the steps above help
remove all the solder from the pads and go back on with tinned wires and fresh solder
less is more

pyrate · Jun 4, 2016

some shakes still in the rig in crosswinds, motors alone will not address that. It will help if you have a bell out of balance

I almost never post video with prop noise but here is a video and man what a difference in the sound of solo. None of that bearing noise at all

RichWest · Jun 4, 2016

Not bad at all. Nice mpcc run, you cover most of the maneuvers that have been problematic for Solo's gimbal. Looking forward to seeing the isolate-mod implemented and what level of improvements are obtained on the same mpcc run.

Personally I don't mind the raw audio recording, I have a volume control if needed....

pyrate · Jun 4, 2016

thanks
yes I have that one saved so I can run it after the isolation is installed
should be interesting

pyrate · Jul 14, 2016

Would these work on solo
Tiger Motor Air Gear 350 Set (Motors, Props)

Flashy · Jul 15, 2016

pyrate said:
Would these work on solo
Tiger Motor Air Gear 350 Set (Motors, Props)

no, to weak..

RolandS888 · Jul 15, 2016

They would be weak for something like a Solo, but i have seen people use phantom motors (same spec as the air gear motors) on Solo (I have no idea why) but it can be done.
I have one of those 350 Air Gear kits at home unused, its nice quality, but Im not even tempted to put it on a Solo.

Flashy · Jul 16, 2016

RolandS888 said:
They would be weak for something like a Solo, but i have seen people use phantom motors (same spec as the air gear motors) on Solo (I have no idea why) but it can be done.
I have one of those 350 Air Gear kits at home unused, its nice quality, but Im not even tempted to put it on a Solo.

If you have time and feel like doing this, then do it ^^ I'm curious about the result of your test. It would be nice if you post the results here.

SPP · Jul 21, 2016

pyrate said:
For those who work off a visual better, I have found what Roland said to be accurate in so much as the silver motors use the red or left most wire out of the grommet going to the back pad on the esc and the blue or right most wire goes to the back on the black motors.
since the T-motors only have black wires you have to use the grommet position with motors facing up and looking left and right

Well, got to thanks Pyrate again and Roland too.
The visual wiring is soooooooo easy to use Pyrate. Gracias..gracias.

Nevertheless I tested each pod after changing motors , just to be sure.

Not flying yet, but I tested anchored down test, two props at one go CC and CCW.
The sound is like freakin Rolls Rocye engine...so smooth when all four are spinnings without props.

Damn I am old and my eyes are bad...LOL.
Got help from my staff to hold the cables while I soldered.
I took photo of each soldering I did, just to zoom it by photo to verify I did not solder accidentaly to one of the IC leg...ha ha ha. Old eyes indeed.

Only need Loctite to secure the prop adapter and a place to test...someday...hopefully soon.
.
I did not :
01. Glue down the black plastic "cup" thingy holding the motor. Its not important to do as the 4 screws eventually holding them...a pain to insert motor pod into bay though, when the plastic cup shaky shaky.

I discovered :
02. The screws I got from Solo spare motor pod I bought, it is like 1.5mm longer than the one on my Solo.
So I use the one from Solo.

I kinda not expecting to do this today as I did not get to buy my usual high quality solder lead, the one with a bit of silver content , its much much nicer to work with. Anyway all good, not the most pristine soldering job...but strong and no short-circuit

03. For reason unknown, one of my battery, when I slide out, it made a kind of impact sound.
Its like plastic hittting plastic. I must measure its dimension, am I having swollen battery or what ?
The only thing able to make such noise will be the 4 slide guides on the Solo or battery.
If I break the Solo's battery slide guide, that will be big trouble

End of report.

DattaGroover · Jul 21, 2016

RolandS888 said:
@DattaGroover they are still running very well. I have been using T-motors of various sizes for years so I trust them and know what to expect.
Judging by the comments through this thread, others who have done the change are still happy with the result

The KDEs of that size were not around when I did the T-Motor mod. Although KDE have an excellent reputation with their larger motors, I'd still like to test one prior to throwing a set straight into a Solo.
I may still look at them, but the T-motors are going so well, I am totally happy with them.

800kv or 900kv, well its all down to personal preference. 800s probably suit 11" props better, but since I didnt go that way in the end (although @Jubalr does use the 11s) I'd probably go the 900s as that is closest to the kv of the original motors that I measured at 890kv.

Just checking to see if you still feel the same about the 900kv T-motors. I've been on the road for months, but I'm finally almost ready to order the motor upgrades.

I just wanted to check the latest consensus here.

DattaGroover · Jul 21, 2016

pyrate said:
some shakes still in the rig in crosswinds, motors alone will not address that. It will help if you have a bell out of balance

I almost never post video with prop noise but here is a video and man what a difference in the sound of solo. None of that bearing noise at all

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What motors and props are you using here?

PdxSteve · Jul 21, 2016

SPP said:
03. For reason unknown, one of my battery, when I slide out, it made a kind of impact sound.
Its like plastic hittting plastic. I must measure its dimension, am I having swollen battery or what ?
The only thing able to make such noise will be the 4 slide guides on the Solo or battery.
If I break the Solo's battery slide guide, that will be big trouble

That happens with some batteries when the plastic at the end of the tray doesn't line up quite right. The tolererance is pretty tight. You can fix that with a very light sanding with finer grit sandpaper where the 2 pieces of plastic come together at the end of the battery tray that the battery has to clear to slide over when inserting/removing.
See this video: