Motors Swapped to T-Motor 2216-12 800kV

[RichWest]

after swap my motors to MT2216 900KV my ESC burned...

maybe to hot soldered?
here a picture, maybe someone see something..

View attachment 3499

thanks..

Too hot or maybe some solder bridging.....it's hard to tell from the photo exactly.

I recommend removing the factory lead-free solder and then apply 63/37 or 60/40 leaded solder. Just makes the task easier.

 

[pyrate]

It does not look bridged there but the wires are gone
Guys I have not soldered in 15 years, (went into management bad move)
I was able to get it done, but it was not easy and I messed up one.

If your soldering is rusty practice on something else, or a disposable pod.
I had my iron at 750 and the old solder was stubborn
Used a desolder tool to get as close to bare pads before going back with new solder and tinned wires

Rule on heat is if you have to leave it on there more than a couple seconds adjust the heat. Prolonged heat on a board = no good
When I got good towards the end, less was more on the solder going back

 

[RolandS888]

after swap my motors to MT2216 900KV my ESC burned...
maybe to hot soldered?
here a picture, maybe someone see something..
View attachment 3499
thanks..

@RichWest has good advice there, the old solder should be removed first, and leaded solder is much more user friendly (just dont breathe the vapour).

Yes @Flashy it is a tight space to solder in, try to stay only on the silver solder pad.
That ESC motor solder pad is bordered very closely by pcb track that is 'ground' and the gap is very small.
Remove the old wire, clean the pad, have a good close look at the solder pad, tin the pad lightly, tin the new wire, and solder the two together. Dont over solder.

 

[RolandS888]

Great post, thanks for that. Very helpful and informative.
Now, 6+ months later, how do you feel about your upgrade? Would you have gone with the same motors? Gone to KDE instead? How have these T-motors been working for you all this time?

@DattaGroover they are still running very well. I have been using T-motors of various sizes for years so I trust them and know what to expect.
Judging by the comments through this thread, others who have done the change are still happy with the result

The KDEs of that size were not around when I did the T-Motor mod. Although KDE have an excellent reputation with their larger motors, I'd still like to test one prior to throwing a set straight into a Solo.
I may still look at them, but the T-motors are going so well, I am totally happy with them.

800kv or 900kv, well its all down to personal preference. 800s probably suit 11" props better, but since I didnt go that way in the end (although @Jubalr does use the 11s) I'd probably go the 900s as that is closest to the kv of the original motors that I measured at 890kv.

 

[Flashy]

thanks @all for your tips and help.
I had luck, the three other motors running well.
I ordered a new motor pod, now.. so this mistake was very expensive.. must buy it in US. it was 85 Euro incl. import fee and shipping ...
I take care now with the new pod. maybe I can sell the stock motors somewhere else. will see..

 

[Dmitry]

I put these parts and happy now!
SunnySky V2216-12 KV800 II Brushless Motor
Sunnysky X22 Prop Adapter Set CW / CCW

I recommend!

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Are any of you guys using different ESCs? Will solo's flight controller and computer notice or care if the ESCs were changed out to with conventional multirotor ESCs?

 

[RolandS888]

Are any of you guys using different ESCs? Will solo's flight controller and computer notice or care if the ESCs were changed out to with conventional multirotor ESCs?

@Pedals2Paddles As far as I can tell Solo just puts out standard PWM servo driver signal, so it should be able to drive a standard MR ESCs.
You will need to link all your 'other' ESCs and set your throttle endpoints on all 4 to match Solo. Solo uses 1060 to 1860mS as the PWM range. Would need to be a decent quality high frequency ESC.

I have been running a Solo motor pod on my test stand with a standard PWM servo driver without issue, so an ESCs change with endpoints properly set should be no issue.

Why would you want to do this anyway

 

[Pedals2Paddles]

Why would you want to do this anyway

It's not that I would want to. Down the road if there's a failure, it would be nice to know I don't need the 3DR models.

 

[RolandS888]

It's not that I would want to. Down the road if there's a failure, it would be nice to know I don't need the 3DR models.

True.
And if someone was to transplant the Solo internals into another airframe (such as Sci.aero do in 4scight below) the motor pods would not bee needed.

 

[PdxSteve]

I believe Philip has also mentioned that higher power ESCs can improve flight time - like up to 20%. He had some designed that didn't end up making it into Solo.

 

[RolandS888]

I believe Philip has also mentioned that higher power ESCs can improve flight time - like up to 20%. He had some designed that didn't end up making it into Solo.

Interesting. Might be worth investigating.
Can you get back to him and ask him to elaborate on that a bit more.
Love to pick this up and run with it.

 

[Greg Parker]

Has anyone considered splicing (cut and soldered) wires to replace the motors rather than messing with the pads?

 

[RolandS888]

Has anyone considered splicing (cut and soldered) wires to replace the motors rather than messing with the pads?

Theres not a lot of room in there for spliced joints, but I suppose it would be possible.

 

[PdxSteve]

Interest

Interesting. Might be worth investigating.
Can you get back to him and ask him to elaborate on that a bit more.
Love to pick this up and run with it.

Waiting for a reply...

 

[pyrate]

Keep im mind pixhawk 2 (solo flight controler) should launch Julyish as a stand alone.
My understanding is that carrier boards are in the works as well that would add the onboard computing simialar to solo
It might not be that long before you can put the power of solo on any frame you chose

That is part of why the rebasing of solo arudpilot and arducopter are so important
It was suppose to happen on the next release but they had to back off some things. But it is close

 

[pyrate]

T

Theres not a lot of room in there for spliced joints, but I suppose it would be possible.

Not sure if I will try that on my next batch or not, now that I have the pad process down
I killed one ESC in my training

 

[DattaGroover]

@DattaGroover they are still running very well. I have been using T-motors of various sizes for years so I trust them and know what to expect.
Judging by the comments through this thread, others who have done the change are still happy with the result

The KDEs of that size were not around when I did the T-Motor mod. Although KDE have an excellent reputation with their larger motors, I'd still like to test one prior to throwing a set straight into a Solo.
I may still look at them, but the T-motors are going so well, I am totally happy with them.

800kv or 900kv, well its all down to personal preference. 800s probably suit 11" props better, but since I didnt go that way in the end (although @Jubalr does use the 11s) I'd probably go the 900s as that is closest to the kv of the original motors that I measured at 890kv.

Great information, thanks!

 

[pyrate]

I put these parts and happy now!
SunnySky V2216-12 KV800 II Brushless Motor
Sunnysky X22 Prop Adapter Set CW / CCW

I recommend!

not seeing shaft or bearing size mentioned, but they do point out that those are not covered on the two year warranty and that you should oil every 10 flights. I dunno for 60 more bucks I get the TBS ones with prop adapters

 

[Dmitry]

bearings
Japanese NMB Bearings for SunnySky V22 and X22-II Motors (i.d. 3.17mm, a pair)