Motors Swapped to T-Motor 2216-12 800kV

RichWest · Feb 7, 2016

Just got a short flight in with the factory Solo props on the T-Motors. This is a follow-up to compare against the APC props. Again no real difference in power performance, ascending and forward flight were comparable. Saw little change in vibration other than micro vibes was somewhat less. I use a pine tree as a reference for micro vibes as it can look like a Dr Seuss tree or an actual pine tree with long needles...could have also been the angle of the sun, but it was noticeably better. Also the vibration pulse, I associate to the prop wash, for whatever reason was different in my video comparison I am using. So if you're tuning for vibration at the gimbal, two different pulses...choose one or the other and work it out.

I think photo people would prefer the Stock props over the APC, softer flights and movements. Like I said, the APCs give a tighter flight, you learn to adapt with stick control. Going with the short TBS PAs would seem to be the correct application with the stock props.

The stock props do sound louder, again this is subjective. You can actually hear them fairly far off. APC not so much, not that they were stealthy in anyway... Just a different sound, maybe less buzzy would be a close description....less annoying??

For how and why I fly, I like the APC in their present form. My tuning here after will be using these props. Or until Roland reveals some other discovery he has up his sleeve.....

RolandS888 · Feb 7, 2016

RichWest said:
Just got a short flight in with the factory Solo props on the T-Motors. This is a follow-up to compare against the APC props. Again no real difference in power performance, ascending and forward flight were comparable. Saw little change in vibration other than micro vibes was somewhat less. I use a pine tree as a reference for micro vibes as it can look like a Dr Seuss tree or an actual pine tree with long needles...could have also been the angle of the sun, but it was noticeably better. Also the vibration pulse, I associate to the prop wash, for whatever reason was different in my video comparison I am using. So if you're tuning for vibration at the gimbal, two different pulses...choose one or the other and work it out.

I think photo people would prefer the Stock props over the APC, softer flights and movements. Like I said, the APCs give a tighter flight, you learn to adapt with stick control. Going with the short TBS PAs would seem to be the correct application with the stock props.

The stock props do sound louder, again this is subjective. You can actually hear them fairly far off. APC not so much, not that they were stealthy in anyway... Just a different sound, maybe less buzzy would be a close description....less annoying??

For how and why I fly, I like the APC in their present form. My tuning here after will be using these props. Or until Roland reveals some other discovery he has up his sleeve.....

Agreed on all counts @RichWest (my comments in brackets..)
APC props - no noticeable power change (efficiency of the two props is very close, other prop choices gave slightly lower power performance, the APC was the only one that had slightly better efficiency figures than stock)
Vibes may be less with stock props ( they have less mass - and I have no doubt they were balanced well by RW)
(Gimbal / prop wash issues I have not worked with at all, although others have mentioned it as well)
APC props are quieter (not as much 'thrashing' sound due to slightly better efficiency.)
Stock props give softer flight (and this is why I am staying with the stock props for photography, they are a PITA to balance accurately, but once they are there they are good).

Thanks Rich, looks like you have the same results as me.

SurfnSkate81 · Feb 8, 2016

David Weston said:
Did you try the stock motors with new bearings at all? I have one new motor pod, one semi new about 2 months ago, and 2 from June 16 when I got Solo. The new one sounds like a gem, purrs. The other 3 are totally different sound,,definitely not purring. I know the last one I replaced had a bad bearing. I am replacing all the bearings with Boca Bearings (sealed as I am in Florida and micro silica sand everywhere). I got them yesterday but unfortunately on the smaller bearing I ordered one that had a flange on one side (didn't see it when I ordered). But, I think with the new bearings it's going to be totally different motor performance. Will report after I replace them.

@David Weston - Do have have part numbers for the bearings you ordered from Boca Bearings?

SurfnSkate81 · Feb 8, 2016

RichWest said:
Just got a short flight in with the factory Solo props on the T-Motors. This is a follow-up to compare against the APC props. Again no real difference in power performance, ascending and forward flight were comparable. Saw little change in vibration other than micro vibes was somewhat less. I use a pine tree as a reference for micro vibes as it can look like a Dr Seuss tree or an actual pine tree with long needles...could have also been the angle of the sun, but it was noticeably better. Also the vibration pulse, I associate to the prop wash, for whatever reason was different in my video comparison I am using. So if you're tuning for vibration at the gimbal, two different pulses...choose one or the other and work it out.

I think photo people would prefer the Stock props over the APC, softer flights and movements. Like I said, the APCs give a tighter flight, you learn to adapt with stick control. Going with the short TBS PAs would seem to be the correct application with the stock props.

The stock props do sound louder, again this is subjective. You can actually hear them fairly far off. APC not so much, not that they were stealthy in anyway... Just a different sound, maybe less buzzy would be a close description....less annoying??

For how and why I fly, I like the APC in their present form. My tuning here after will be using these props. Or until Roland reveals some other discovery he has up his sleeve.....

@RichWest - Do you have part numbers for the APC props?

RichWest · Feb 9, 2016

Sure, at the beginning of this thread...click on page one and start reading....

Nerius · Feb 9, 2016

One quads dealer in my country told me, that T-Motors are going to stop production of entire MT motors line. Could someone confirm or deny this?

SurfnSkate81 · Feb 9, 2016

@RolandS888 - What glue are you using for the motor pods when reassembling? Whats the chances of me grabbing it at Bunnings?

And does anyone know where to find replacement Circlips for the stock Solo motors? Are the Circlips imperial or metric?

brucesbees · Feb 9, 2016

I ordered these from Boca Bearings. There are in the medium range of cost. They range anywhere from I think $3.25 to 39.99.
The ones I ordered are a sealed greased bearing. If you enter in the part number using full search, then click on Product Specifications, Then scroll down a little and click on more 0.125X 0.1406 in Radial bearings>> Then scroll down about 3/4 of a page. There are 5 full pages of each bearing. Then you can see everything that is available for that bearing do the same for the other bearing as well.
I ordered these:
SFR2-5C-YUU NB2 $11.95
SR2C-YUU NB2 $9.95
Search these without using the NB2 at the end.
I have not confirmed these are the greatest thing ever yet. But you can see for your self there is a lot to choose from. Ceramic, steel, grease or oil. The $40 bearings look cool but for a bearing smaller than a dime I couldn't do it

RolandS888 · Feb 9, 2016

SurfnSkate81 said:
@RolandS888 - What glue are you using for the motor pods when reassembling? Whats the chances of me grabbing it at Bunnings?

And does anyone know where to find replacement Circlips for the stock Solo motors? Are the Circlips imperial or metric?

@SurfnSkate81 I just used a dot of UHU during reassembly, the screws hold everything together as you assemble the pods anyway. The ferrite ring is stuck in place with silicon.
The circlips for the stock motors are 1/8" shaft circlips, these would fit and are in AU.
T-Motor circlips for M3.175 shafts CC001
And make sure you fit the washer under the circlip too, they get very noisy without them.

SurfnSkate81 · Feb 9, 2016

@RolandS888 Great so I just need some UHU all purpose adhesive? I will grab some of those circlips, are the washers any particular size? I also noticed that you have some white glue or silicone holding the ferrite core in place, what did you use there?

Would these washers suit? T-Motor washers for 3.175mm shafts WA001

RichWest · Feb 9, 2016

brucesbees said:
I ordered these:
SFR2-5C-YUU NB2 $11.95
SR2C-YUU NB2 $9.95
Search these without using the NB2 at the end.
I have not confirmed these are the greatest thing ever yet. But you can see for your self there is a lot to choose from.

And people say swapping out the motors is a waste of money... You spent $21 a motor for bearings?

RolandS888 · Feb 9, 2016

SurfnSkate81 said:
@RolandS888 Great so I just need some UHU all purpose adhesive? I will grab some of those circlips, are the washers any particular size? I also noticed that you have some white glue or silicone holding the ferrite core in place, what did you use there?

Would these washers suit? T-Motor washers for 3.175mm shafts WA001

The white silicon was already there, there was no need to remove the ferrite, just slide the wires through it.
The washers look correct, those are the T-motor part.
Funny, the WA001 looks to be nylon, (described as plastic) but the original washer on both the stock and silver top T-motors are brass.
I cant find the brass spare part anywhere. Maybe its updated to 'plastic'. Looks like the WA001 is the only way to go. Would probably work better as a thrust washer/spacer anyway.

RichWest · Feb 9, 2016

RolandS888 said:
Funny, the WA001 looks to be nylon, (described as plastic) but the original washer on both the stock and silver top T-motors are brass.

I tried to find the brass thrust washer and couldn't find anything similar. Wonder if the Nylon replacement is better solution for rebuilds...compressive.

RolandS888 · Feb 9, 2016

RichWest said:
I tried to find the brass thrust washer and couldn't find anything similar. Wonder if the Nylon replacement is better solution for rebuilds...compressive.

Yep, I was thinking the same thing.

SurfnSkate81 · Feb 9, 2016

RolandS888 said:
The white silicon was already there, there was no need to remove the ferrite, just slide the wires through it.
The washers look correct, those are the T-motor part.
Funny, the WA001 looks to be nylon, (described as plastic) but the original washer on both the stock and silver top T-motors are brass.
I cant find the brass spare part anywhere. Maybe its updated to 'plastic'. Looks like the WA001 is the only way to go. Would probably work better as a thrust washer/spacer anyway.

Awesome thanks mate for the info.

Now all I need to decide is to replace the motors with new MT2216 or replace the stock bearings first and see how that goes. Only problem with replacing the bearings is deciding what bearing to use:

Chrome steel, stainless steel, stainless steel ceramic, stainless steel ceramic sealed, stainless steel ceramic rubber sealed, stainless steel ceramic ultra sealed...

After reading all the motor and bearing posts, making my own notes and looking at way to many web links my head is ready to explode not mention I've just spent six hours of my life doing this, I must really love my Solo!

SurfnSkate81 · Feb 9, 2016

Anyone been using this?

MULTI ROTOR MAINTENANCE KIT

RolandS888 · Feb 9, 2016

SurfnSkate81 said:
Awesome thanks mate for the info.

Now all I need to decide is to replace the motors with new MT2216 or replace the stock bearings first and see how that goes. Only problem with replacing the bearings is deciding what bearing to use:

Chrome steel, stainless steel, stainless steel ceramic, stainless steel ceramic sealed, stainless steel ceramic rubber sealed, stainless steel ceramic ultra sealed...

After reading all the motor and bearing posts, making my own notes and looking at way to many web links my head is ready to explode not mention I've just spent six hours of my life doing this, I must really love my Solo!

Stainless will do unless you want to go the extra expense of ceramic, which is not really necessary.
Chrome steel is harder, but will rust unless kept wet with grease/oil.

SurfnSkate81 · Feb 9, 2016

RolandS888 said:
Stainless will do unless you want to go the extra expense of ceramic, which is not really necessary.
Chrome steel is harder, but will rust unless kept wet with grease/oil.

I noticed that old mate at Multirotor Gear has the SunnySky V22 replacement bearings SunnySky Bearings for V2216

I might grab some of them for short turnaround and then order some Boca bearings and wait for them to get here whenever.

Also found these guys in Brisbane -

SR2-5A-ZZMC3

SR2-ZZMC3

Says they are the EZO bearing from Japan, the brand used in the T-Motors?