the t motors look bigger, is that just an illusion?
so if 40 bucks is not big deal would you go amazon or TBS
1. Its just the way the motors are balancing on the battery.
2. Well, the TBS package looks to include the PAs which is a bonus, you would need to purchase PAs if you go with the Amazon deal. Purely aesthetic after that, silver or black is the only decision really.
A bit of history on the 800kV decision....
I initially went for the 800kv to give a bit of 'rev room' for a larger prop (11") but didnt like the handling with the 11s so i didnt persue it any further. The 800s perform beautifully with stock props or APCs, and the 900s would do the same as they are both very close to the stock motors.

I am playing with some 700kv motors and another different prop combo at the moment (details and results later) but I am currently buried in a project that is keeping me away from all this for the next month or so.
 
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1. Its just the way the motors are balancing on the battery.
2. Well, the TBS package looks to include the PAs which is a bonus, you would need to purchase PAs if you go with the Amazon deal. Purely aesthetic after that, silver or black is the only decision really.
A bit of history on the 800kV decision....
I initially went for the 800kv to give a bit of 'rev room' for a larger prop (11") but didnt like the handling with the 11s so i didnt persue it any further. The 800s perform beautifully with stock props or APCs, and the 900s would do the same as they are both very close to the stock motors.

I am playing with some 700kv motors and another different prop combo at the moment (details and results later) but I am currently buried in a project that is keeping me away from all this for the next month or so.
Been wondering what happened to you Roland. I figured you were busy on another excursion.
I have some 10x5 I'm going to try on my 800s. When in stabilize, it's hovering at about 70% or more of stick. Traditionally with all MRs I have built you are looking for as close to 50 as you can get. Have you noticed that?
 
Been wondering what happened to you Roland. I figured you were busy on another excursion.
I have some 10x5 I'm going to try on my 800s. When in stabilize, it's hovering at about 70% or more of stick. Traditionally with all MRs I have built you are looking for as close to 50 as you can get. Have you noticed that?
Im still lurking most days Jubal, just committed elsewhere unfortunately.

Thats a result of using a slightly lower kV motor, and/or a less efficient prop, and/or higher altitude.
As you lower the rpm/volt you need to increase the mS signal to the ESC (increase the throttle) in order to keep the revs high enough to maintain thrust. Is your stick cal ok?
 
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Initially thought that arrows on the top of motor pods indicates rotation, but that's not true. Motors rotates in opposite to arrows directions.
Yes, the direction arrows on the solo indicate which way to turn the props to tighten them when installing. As you point out, the motors actually spin opposite of that.
 
So to cut a long story short, here is my bullet point summary based on the figures I found whilst thrust testing.
- The Stock motor/prop combo is actually pretty good (so long as the motor bearings survive and everything is balanced))
- The T-motor 2216 800kv /stock prop combo is slightly more efficient
- The T-motor 2216 800kv / APC1045 MR(ST) prop combo is slightly more efficent again
- For the T-motor 2216 900kv the best prop is the stock Solo prop, using an APC 1045 reduces the efficiency.
- The 1145 MRST is too big for the T-motor 2216 800kv motor, in fact its too big for a 2216 period.
None of the other props are as good as these combinations.

Wow!!!! I am a late comer but THANK YOU x 1,000,000 Roland.

So I am choosing this path :
Amazon.com: T-MOTOR MT2216 KV800 Version 2.0 high-performance brushless electric motor for multi-rotor aircraft: Toys & Games
T-MOTOR MT2216 KV800 Version 2.0 high-performance brushless electric motor for multi-rotor aircraft
QTY 4



Team BlackSheep Online Store - 900kV2 Motor Self Tightening Prop Adapter (CW)
900KV2 MOTOR SELF TIGHTENING PROP ADAPTER (CW)
Qty 2


Team BlackSheep Online Store - 900kV2 Motor Self Tightening Prop Adapter (CCW)
900KV2 MOTOR SELF TIGHTENING PROP ADAPTER (CCW)
Qty 2

Above , so that I can use Solo standard prop.

=================================

I have ordered also 4 Solo motor pod 2 + 2, locally available so that I can house the T-Motor 2216

For my current motor pod, me wanna change bearing...........

SR2-5UU #3
SR2-5UU #3 Radial Bearings
QTY 4

SR2-LL/C3 #3
SR2-LL/C3 #3 Radial Bearings
QTY 4

So I can have spare motor pods with better motors and have standard pod with better bearing... LOL.

Again, thanks Roland for your exhaustive research. Me bow down to u.....
 
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I just found a guy selling return motor pods on ebay for 25 bucks. Talking with him sounds like the motors are noisey
since I am going to replace the motors thought I might roll the dice.
What is the latest?
Same recommendations?
how about with 11 inch props?

thanks
 
I just found a guy selling return motor pods on ebay for 25 bucks. Talking with him sounds like the motors are noisey
since I am going to replace the motors thought I might roll the dice.
What is the latest?
Same recommendations?
how about with 11 inch props?

thanks
I use the T-motors Roland recommended and I use the 11x4.5 props as my defaults flyers.
 
he had the TBS though I guess it does not matter
if I get these two pods for 50 bucks thinking about trying the TBS
already have two other pods
 
I learnt the hard way many years ago never to put a motor from hobbyking into any of my aircraft that matter to me.
I haven't been tempted to change my mind yet. Its a no from me.
 
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so how would you go about testing before sending it in the air?
should I strap this thing down and run a battery or two through them for testing before sending it up?
I am going to be doing this swap, and I am doing an X8 build too
so I am going to either fly or crash and burn.
 
Be careful with the soldering.
Just make sure everything is rotating the right way on the ground, then go fly, gently at first, then normally.
You will hear the difference.
 
Be careful with the soldering.
Just make sure everything is rotating the right way on the ground, then go fly, gently at first, then normally.
You will hear the difference.
What Roland said. I really like my T-motors and now use the 11" props for all shoots, and save the stock for when I want to burn holes in the sky.
 
Pyrate, I ran mine through MP to verify rotation without props and to check vibration. Then I did a manual propless run with the controller. Then repeated in MP again individually at about 30% setting with props to confirm everything was oriented properly. Test flew at about 10' and then took off like a rocket for a shake down.

I did make a blunder on my install fwiw, but fortunately it was correctable prior to a failure. Just take your time and measure twice. And make sure your prop adapters are installed correctly....;)

Roland's guidance on wire sequence was spot on for my install.
 
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I just found a guy selling return motor pods on ebay for 25 bucks. Talking with him sounds like the motors are noisey
since I am going to replace the motors thought I might roll the dice.
What is the latest?
Same recommendations?
how about with 11 inch props?

thanks
Hey @pyrate I got a couple of these motors from this guy on eBay & they seem to be new. They aren't shipped w/the original box but worked great. The original pod#3 bearings was the worst of the 2 pods I replaced. Now it's really hard to see ANY vibrations. Before the vibrations were quite noticeable.
 
So you are flying the ones you got on EBay live?
I got those to go with my others that I had replaced on my own for vibrations with the intent of changing the motors
good to know they are in that good of shape. his rating was high and he went out of his way to be honest about his testing.
At 25 bucks a pod hard to pass up. He now sells a pair for 50 plus a single ship
Mine came fast, have not opened them yet.
 

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