ND filter

[JLJ]

Thank You. What really confuses me is that if it is very bright day and I am flying with no water around, I don't know which is better if the ND8 by itself or the ND8/CP, that's what I am trying to find out.

I think you should really get both. Sometimes there is a lot of glare off grass and rocks, not just water. You'll also want to try out the circular polarizes. Sorry I can't give you a better answer. And yes some of them are Both CP and ND filters in one.

 

[Chip Luck]

those don't come with any case, right? was checking that web site and the only case they have is for 3 filters, would be nice to have one for all 6.

The Six Pack comes with a case.

http://polarprofilters.com/shop/GoProFilter

 

[JLJ]

you are right, thank You

QUOTE="Chip Luck, post: 14141, member: 1155"]The Six Pack comes with a case.

http://polarprofilters.com/shop/GoProFilter[/QUOTE]

 

[erikgraham]

Thank You. What really confuses me is that if it is very bright day and I am flying with no water around, I don't know which is better if the ND8 by itself or the ND8/CP, that's what I am trying to find out.

Ok so the thing about CP's is that they are really good for removing glare, but the angle you are shooting at is critical. This makes them a little tricky to use on a drone unless you have thought out your flight path and rotated your filter to match.

So in general you'll want to use the ND by itself. That's probably your goto filter. But if you know your going to do a pulling shot or a pan, without a lot of yaw (turning of the drone) then you might want to throw on the ND/CP combo. Even though the live feed from the Solo isn't great quality, it's good enough to give you a sense of whether your CP is rotated to the right angle.

Here is a link that might help. I just searched circular polarizer on YouTube and this is the first one that came up. Skip through toward the end when he demonstrates the CP with video.

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[JLJ]

Thank you very much Eirik, I dodn't know the circular polarizer would move, the gopro also needs to be moved to find the best position?

Ok so the thing about CP's is that they are really good for removing glare, but the angle you are shooting at is critical. This makes them a little tricky to use on a drone unless you have thought out your flight path and rotated your filter to match.

So in general you'll want to use the ND by itself. That's probably your goto filter. But if you know your going to do a pulling shot or a pan, without a lot of yaw (turning of the drone) then you might want to throw on the ND/CP combo. Even though the live feed from the Solo isn't great quality, it's good enough to give you a sense of whether your CP is rotated to the right angle.

Here is a link that might help. I just searched circular polarizer on YouTube and this is the first one that came up. Skip through toward the end when he demonstrates the CP with video.

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[Ian B.]

I bought an ND, UV, and CP filter kit. Going to try them out ASAP. Really looking forward to improving the images captured.

Current Hero 4 settings are:
1080p
60fps
ISO 400
Sharpness: low

I tested my Solo with Hero 4 out before getting filters and I was a little disappointed in the image quality.

 

[erikgraham]

the gopro also needs to be moved to find the best position?

No, you just rotate the filter. The GoPro stays put.

 

[JLJ]

but if you rotathe the filter then you have to be constantly reviewing the video recording to find the best position for it? this seems like a Little bit annoying?

No, you just rotate the filter. The GoPro stays put.

 

[erikgraham]

but if you rotathe the filter then you have to be constantly reviewing the video recording to find the best position for it? this seems like a Little bit annoying?

Yes. It is annoying. But thats what it takes to get the highest quality footage. But if you fly in the same location a few times, you develop an instinct for it and can probably get what you want in 2 or 3 flights.

 

[erikgraham]

Yes. It is annoying. But thats what it takes to get the highest quality footage. But if you fly in the same location a few times, you develop an instinct for it and can probably get what you want in 2 or 3 flights.

Oh and I should add that you don't really need to land and review the video... the live feed you get on your iPad/Android is good enough for you to tell whether you have the CP rotated the way you want. But obviously you do have to land and power down to actually rotate the filter - can't do it while there is power to the gimbal (the gimbal will freak out on you).

 

[erikgraham]

Will be good to know what you think of them in comparison to the Blurfix.

They arrived yesterday. The case they include is great. Can't really test them on the Solo until the gimbal comes, but when I have some time I'll try to compare to the Blurfix.

 

[Lamda]

They arrived yesterday. The case they include is great. Can't really test them on the Solo until the gimbal comes, but when I have some time I'll try to compare to the Blurfix.

Thanks erikgraham. Got to see mine yesterday as well. Unfortunately, buying it here in Canada means I don't get the case. I emailed them and they said it was a limited supply item given only to those who order direct from them and wouldn't provide any other options. At the end of the day, it's just a case. But would have been nice to get what's included in other people's orders.

Looking forward to your comparison.

 

[Lamda]

I bought an ND, UV, and CP filter kit. Going to try them out ASAP. Really looking forward to improving the images captured.

Current Hero 4 settings are:
1080p
60fps
ISO 400
Sharpness: low

I tested my Solo with Hero 4 out before getting filters and I was a little disappointed in the image quality.

View attachment 704

Hi Ian, I haven't had a chance to test mine yet, however, are you able to change your ISO to 100? I can with my Hero 4. Having An ISO limit of 400 while adding an ND filter causes the camera to push the ISO up to the 400 limit if it isn't extremely bright/if your ND filter is too strong for the current exposure. This defeats the purpose of the ND (your camera is increasing sensitivity to offset the darkening of the ND) and in addition, adds noise/grain because of the boosted ISO which will reduce video/image quality.

The ND filter will reduce some of the "jello" and hopefully prop shadows in bright conditions if used correctly.

The CP will get you better contrast/bluer skies when rotated the correct way while your camera is pointed in the right direction (in relation to the light source - likely the sun). Note, the CP is ineffective when pointed directly at the light source and most effective when at 90 degrees. It can be hard to manage when using on a hand held camera with an ultra wide lens, never mind in a flying drone, so experimentation and resetting between shots is key.

I also prefer to shoot at higher resolutions. Even 2.7K at 60fps (if not 4K). This will allow you to down sample the video to 1080p and this will, in my opinion, look sharper than shooting outright at 1080p.

 

[erikgraham]

Hi Ian, I haven't had a chance to test mine yet, however, are you able to change your ISO to 100?

You can set the ISO limit to 100 for photos. 400 is the lowest ISO for video.

Having An ISO limit of 400 while adding an ND filter causes the camera to push the ISO up to the 400 limit

I think it's the opposite of what you are saying, if I'm reading by you right. Anyway, setting the ISO limit to 400 prevents it from going any higher.

if it isn't extremely bright/if your ND filter is too strong for the current exposure. This defeats the purpose of the ND (your camera is increasing sensitivity to offset the darkening of the ND) and in addition, adds noise/grain because of the boosted ISO which will reduce video/image quality.

I think this is the opposite to. Setting the limit to 400 will prevent noise. The higher the ISO, the more noise. Of course I completely agree it's pointless to use a strong ND filter if it's not bright.

 

[Lamda]

You can set the ISO limit to 100 for photos. 400 is the lowest ISO for video.



I think it's the opposite. I'm not sure what your trying to say, so excuse me but if interpreted what your saying wrong, but the ISO is limited to 400. It can't go any higher, which it would normally try to do.



I think this is the opposite to. Setting the limit to 400 will prevent noise. The higher the ISO, the more noise. Of course I completely agree it's pointless to use a strong ND filter if it's not bright.

Hi erikgraham. I was trying to say use the lowest ISO setting possible (I assumed this was 100 as I missed the note that it was for photo only.). So for the Hero 4 it looks like 400 is as good as it gets.

 

[erikgraham]

Hi erikgraham. I was trying to say use the lowest ISO setting possible (I assumed this was 100 as I missed the note that it was for photo only.). So for the Hero 4 it looks like 400 is as good as it gets.

Ok yeah. I kept trying to edit my comment to clarify, but it sounds like we are on the same page.

 

[1264_Solo]

has anyone used a nd filter with their gimbal? Wondering how that slight weight affects it, also looking into some of these and Im leaning towards that polar pros... any other suggestions before I pull the trigger?

 

[JLJ]

The only way to change the ISO is if protune is on, right?

Hi erikgraham. I was trying to say use the lowest ISO setting possible (I assumed this was 100 as I missed the note that it was for photo only.). So for the Hero 4 it looks like 400 is as good as it gets.

 

[Lamda]

The only way to change the ISO is if protune is on, right?

Yes as far as I know.

 

[Sampson]

has anyone used a nd filter with their gimbal? Wondering how that slight weight affects it, also looking into some of these and Im leaning towards that polar pros... any other suggestions before I pull the trigger?

I use the polar pro filters with my gimbal. I found somewhere that a nickel on the back where the GoPro mounts and a penny on the pitch axis motor(to the gopro's right) will balance it pretty well. I haven't had any issues doing this and my results have been smooth.