Dedicated 3rd Party Lens Discussion (Examples Updated)

having looked at the Peu 4.3 and mine very closely I don't see any real improvement on IQ out of their 4.3 versus my 4.4
could be wrong but just not seeing it.
Rage Cams sells pretty much the same 4.4 as I have as well not using the 4,3
 
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having looked at the Peu 4.3 and mine very closely I don't see any real improvement on IQ out of their 4.3 versus my 4.4

What's your take on my video clips? The picture is sharp but the color changes and the blue dots and blue reflections even with just the PL filter are a bit worrisome to me. I'm not looking for perfection and I know there will be a lot of difference when pointed towards the sun but I think the stock lens performs better. I love the 4.4mm and especially being able to use the wide FOV but I just can't seem to get happy with the lens overall. Again, I'm just doing the hit and miss stuff, I don't have the knowledge or experience to do anything else at this point.

Jerry
 
I'm hoping the optic qualities of the Peau are better. I've read that there can be quite a bit of difference in these lenses based on who manufactured it. I am running down uncharted waters though as I don't know much about this stuff. Just looking for the best "out of camera" image that I can achieve without the fisheye.

Jerry
The lenses are all manufactured in China. For the lenses of the same field of view, the quality will be the same, so for example the 5.4mm, whether you paid $300 or $100 you were getting the same lens.

With Peau they do have the ability to remove the lens profile on the GoPro itself which no one else offers, so that's worth keeping in mind when comparing their prices.
 
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I'm not looking for perfection and I know there will be a lot of difference when pointed towards the sun but I think the stock lens performs better.
The stock lens performs better than any replacement when it comes to lens flare. All the replacements tend to be fairly ugly, it's one of the downsides, overall it's a downside worth living with.
 
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Took me forever to find the blue dot at 2:17
looks like part of a lens flare but man never seen one that sharp.
didnt see it in any of my video but i had the ND4 on mine on a cloudy day and I think it slowed the shutter speed so low it made the video look soft

Will be interesting to see if the Peu is better
Ian have you seen that sharp lens flare on yours?
 
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Unfortunately, I have to keep in mind my utter lack of experience with every aspect of editing. I might be putting the cart before the horse. The mechanical things are typically easier for me than the in-depth process of learning about photography and editing. Something I'm hoping to do much of over these upcoming, long, cold winter months. I thought that I would attempt to get the best that I can from the hardware before moving on to the software elements. Maybe, due to my lack of knowledge regarding photography, I'm taking the wrong path?

Jerry
 
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Will be interesting to see if the Peu is better
Ian have you seen that sharp lens flare on yours?
I've seen sharp lens flare on that on every replacement lens I've tried, I've been trying various lenses for about 2-3 years now! An ND filter calms it down, most ND filters though are too strong, I'd want an ND2 or less.
 
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Jerry
there is no correct path to learning. just keep learning.
I am like you though. Wanted to get the hardware dialed in before moving on to my post work flow. I think I am there. going to keep this lens and play with my filters and settings. try an ND2 filter like Ian said.

If you are just getting started on editing video and photo you might want to try a basic subscription over on Lynda.com
lots of very good videos on there for almost any product you will use. Even a pretty good section on shooting with gopro.

I keep a subscription on there as I am constantly learning new software of all kinds.
I used to have a digital tutors subscription too, but that one is heavily CGI and 3D modeling. dont get me started on those.
 
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When time permits I'm going to do some video tutorials, covering Prodrenalin, Mercali and Hit Film. I've never even used Hit Film yet, but with it being free in its basic form, it's likely to be the most accessible software to Solo pilots in general.
 
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Here's my quandary, I love the Solo and the concept of an open-source, modular platform, I'm all in (Hell, I'm retired, kids are gone, what else am I going to do). I'm a hobbyist, not a professional. I like tinkering so this is fun for me any way it shakes. That being said (this is where it gets tricky and I only say this for for further development purposes) the "white guy" platform seems much more mature. For the hobbyist, trying to provide interesting videos for Family and friends, it seems to adjust to "my lack of knowledge" much better. No flaming please, just trying to further the cause.

I plan to learn as much as possible about photography and I'm a hot rod anyway but it is nice to just go fly (when everything is sorted and you're not down due to some other system issue) and have a fairly decent clip to show to Family and friends. A blue dot doesn't cut it. It would be very different if these products were targeted towards a particular market segment. Right now, they're targeting guys like me.

Do you guys hear what I'm saying?

Thanks so much for all the info and inspiration,

Jerry
 
J R
it might surprise you but I am 58 and just shoot personal videos. Dont do it for a profession. I am the family member usually asked to take videos or pictures at family events or club outings because people think I am better at it. truth is I know a bit more than most but only because i like learning about such things.
I looked at the white ones a long time.
Yes they are more mature and the camera works but its not all peaches and cream over there either. For one thing as rookies we crash a lot, at least I do. so its good to have 3DR support.
when I talk with a lot of the seasoned 3DR guys I get the feeling I am talking with contemporaries
when visit the white forums it looks like a bunch of children to me. NO FLAMING just my experience.

I chose solo because of support, and it will not be outdated on the next release.
Now if I wanted something to just work and not tinker with, then it might make a good choice if I could find someone to put a 3rd party replacement warranty on it
 
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NO FLAMING just my experience.

Pyrate,

I hear you. I'm just sharing "my experiences". I'm in the Solo thing because I want to be, no other reason. There just aren't a lot of comparisons to be made. I'm only bringing up the "white" guys for establishing baselines. If we don't talk about the other guys because its taboo we're just doing injustice to ourselves. IMHO, the weakest links on the Solo are the camera and gimbal.

Jerry
 
No doubt
Just dont care for their business model. It is more like Apple or Samsung, roll out a new model every year with no backward compatibility. Hope that when people break theirs they will just buy another one.

I like that 3DR is a long term platform that will just get better over time.
If I were to still be in the market and solo didnt exist I might be looking at a Yuneek or maybe an Inspire.
They have some pretty cheap used Inspires on B&H, just cant bring myself to go with DJI
the gopro is a very capable camera but it takes some work to get it right. And I dont think solo will be permanently bound to the gopro. Only a matter of time before someone figures out how to get other cameras to work. and cameras are shrinking fast.
 
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A blue dot doesn't cut it. It would be very different if these products were targeted towards a particular market segment. Right now, they're targeting guys like me.

Do you guys hear what I'm saying?

Thanks so much for all the info and inspiration,

Jerry
You get lens flare on any lens, even on your top end professional full frame cameras, in fact, lens flares are considered often cool and "a look" so many people, myself included even have lenses made especially to get more flare, there's at least two UK companies that specialise in this on proper cameras, for example:

DSO 'FLARE FACTORY'

The look of flares varies from lens to lens, it's personal preference to what's nice and what is not. Flares can be reduced by ND filters or not taking shots into direct light sources.

You can even use flare creatively, here's an example I've taken on the GoPro on Ilkey Moor in Yorkshire, pointing the Solo direct at the sun.example.jpg
 
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There's some much information and different lenses, now it's TMI for village idiots like me :)

I now have 5 copters and not one has a gimbal attached; pretty good at building the copters, zero experience using a gimbal so am trying to make the right decision. It isn't easy. One of the lens sellers say the "clones" don't say "IR CUT" and are inferior to theirs. Is that Rage Cams? Fact or fiction?

I bought a Vertigo 27x zoom setup but never installed it because it requires a very steady copter. I have a Sky Hero Y6 750 which is virtually vibration free, heavy and floats nice, but mounting a gimbal out front I think may introduce vibration to the camera, so the project is on the back burner.

The lens is getting replaced in the GP4 Black for use in the Solo. I have no problem paying more for a good product, but still am concerned about stuttering from the 4-5.xx lens which that guy in the video explains. That is why the GP is more forgiving, but requires PP to make it look nice which if possible I'd like to avoid.

So someone make up my mind for me.
 
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I'd stay with the stock lens initially and if you feel you need to squeeze more sharpness from your videos then replace the lens. Ragecams are too expensive.
 
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I'd stay with the stock lens initially and if you feel you need to squeeze more sharpness from your videos then replace the lens. Ragecams are too expensive.

The lens needs to be replaced, otherwise I'd just leave it stock. I figured if there was a better lens I may as well get it, but there doesn't seem to be much consensus on which is the best route to take. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder.

Question: at which distance should the lens be calibrated to? I've seen everything from 100 ft to 100 yards.
 
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I'd get a 4.35/4.4mm lens. Focus it so infinity is sharp, basically try to get it sharp from centre to the edge at a distance.
 
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The lens needs to be replaced, otherwise I'd just leave it stock. I figured if there was a better lens I may as well get it, but there doesn't seem to be much consensus on which is the best route to take. Perfection is in the eye of the beholder.

Question: at which distance should the lens be calibrated to? I've seen everything from 100 ft to 100 yards.

As you are seeing, there is no perfect solution for lens replacement selection. I got one (5.4mm?) that was less expensive than the RageCam stuff, can't remember where, but I like it. There is some slight pink hugh around the corners, but it's barely noticeable to most anyone besides a nitpick. Clarity seems just fine.

Calibration depends on what you plan to shoot I would think...if you plan to shoot objects at a close distance, then calibrate for that distance. Most of us shoot from high up and long distance, so I just picked some mountains way off in the distance against the sky and focused it on those. The difference is minuscule between the 2 and I feel like you're overthinking this. Just get one at a reasonable price and play with it until you get it setup right...really simple process and I was all set on the first attempt.
 
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I was really surprised just how easy changing the lens was, and the results were fantastic to me. I am not a fan of the fisheye look but in some cases and in some folks mind it is desired.
that was the main reason I switched. Yes you can shoot in 2.7K and crop out a 1050p frame and you virtually have no fisheye on the stock lens. but I wanted to get rid of that step in my post processing. mission accomplished for me. Now I am working on filters
 
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