Converting Solo to larger frame

[mike_kelly]

I am interested in doing this, for longer flight times. Philip mentioned in a recent video that it had already been done. I have search the internet for a couple of hours and got no hits. Would anyone happen to remember seeing a link about this project?

In that regard I have seen conflicting info about what uses Canbus in the Solo. I thought the compass was Canbus but the Solo drawings on 3DR's site show I2C as the interface. I thought the ESC's were Canbus too but there appears to be a PWM pin. I think the I2C on the ESC's are for the lights. The GPS seems to be serial.

Thanks

 

[XevetS]

You need to clarify exactly what you mean by longer flight times? There are a few threads here that have incorporated a solo's guts on different frames utilizing upgraded motors Batteries props ESC's etc... I myself have done this although I was not going for longer flight times only for the cool or wow factor and just to see if it would work. The solo main board has PPM in it connects right into the PIxHawk2 you can remove the companion Computer/wifi and use a transmitter/receiver of your choice..You can also utilize the night-Raptor module NightRaptor (SOLO-RFD900x) Interface on a stock solo for long range telemetry and signal... But it defeats the whole purpose of this bird.

 

[mike_kelly]

Ah, I am not interested in further distance, the upgraded wifi cards and better antennas provide adequate distance. I just need to be in the air a lot longer. So I want to keep the integrated Solo electronics, that is the attraction. CUAV has as Sololink like HD video/RC control RX/TX out but nobody I have seen have gotten it to work. Plus I would like to play more with CANbus, as long as 3DR did not do something unique to cause it not to work with UAVCAN. So did you figure out the pinout of the 3DR ESC? I would like to replace them with Zubax CANbus ESC's. I am going to use a H4 680 style folding frame with 3508-580kv motors. Most of these builds can get 45 minute flight times, especially with the light Solo Gimbal and a 4s10k battery.
Did you publish your build somewhere?

 

[XevetS]

Ah, I am not interested in further distance, the upgraded wifi cards ands better antennas provide adequate distance. I just need to be in the air a lot longer. So I want to keep the integrated Solo electronics, that is the attraction. CUAV has as Sololink like HD video/RC control RX/TX out but nobody I have seen have gotten it to work. Plus I would like to play more with CANbus, as long as 3DR did not do something unique to cause it not to work with UAVCAN. So did you figure out the pinout of the 3DR ESC? I would like to replace them with Zubax CANbus ESC's. I am going to use a H4 680 style folding frame with 3508-580kv motors. Most of these builds can get 45 minute flight times, especially with the light Solo Gimbal and a 4s10k battery.
Did you publish your build somewhere?

Here is one I built https://3drpilots.com/threads/tarot-650-sport-3drsolo-build-flies-with-arducopter-master.10372/
Another thread here https://3drpilots.com/threads/running-solo-on-master.9033/page-6#post-108792
Yes the pinout on the ESC's has been figured out, I myself only needed to utilize the signal and ground pretty straight forward actually....

 

[mike_kelly]

Thanks. No use starting from scratch!

So you indeed used a standard PWM connection to the new ESC's. Any idea why there are CANbus connections to the motor pod?
It also looks like you used the standard 5200mah battery so you did not have to figure out how to overcome the "smart battery" i2c device. I would like to use a 4s10k battery so I am going to have to figure that out.

Looks great tho, good job!

 

[XevetS]

Thanks. No use starting from scratch!

Hey no problem any help or direction don't hesitate to ask for details..
Here's how it looks now https://3drpilots.com/threads/3d-printed-shell-housing-for-solo-mobo-components.11297/#post-117793

 

[pyrate]

just move the imx6 to a ph2 carrier board

 

[XevetS]

Thanks. No use starting from scratch!

So you indeed used a standard PWM connection to the new ESC's. Any idea why there are CANbus connections to the motor pod?
It also looks like you used the standard 5200mah battery so you did not have to figure out how to overcome the "smart battery" i2c device. I would like to use a 4s10k battery so I am going to have to figure that out.

Looks great tho, good job!

Hey thanks for the positive feedback, the connection to the solo esc provides PWM signal ground, it also provides led signals and it can also be used to flash the on-board "Atmel" chip or whatever its called? I'm sure you could actually wire up 2 Solo batteries in parallel to retain the smart battery function, I thought about doing this myself I'm not sure what type of flight time you would get because of the extra weight but with more efficient motors and props you just might get a longer run time than the stock solo, you can also run a full blown version of Arducopter. Try to keep things simple and pay attention to the main-board orientation it gets real tricky when wiring the esc's. The way mine sits now I had to actually swap the signal wires to opposite motor pods i,e, the left motor pods were now wired as the right and vice versa...had me pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the drone would flip when trying to take off. BTW do not use carbon fiber props for the first flights or when tuning those things are downright dangerous.....Good luck with your build and if you can document it for the other folks.

 

[mike_kelly]

YA I noticed in the evolution of yours you started out with it SOLO style cube down and then reversed it with the cube up.

I use a program called eCalc to calculate flight time based on motors, battery and weight of the complete Airframe. So far I can conservatively get 25 minutes with a 4s10k and 15" props. I have a used dead battery to cut apart and see if I can sneak the new battery to use the old I2C sensor. The problem would be telling Arducopter there is more battery capacity. I know how to do that in normal Arducopter but I need to figure out if 3DR added unique code for its battery monitor or if it just used the stock Arducopter methods "under the covers".
The sweet thing about this conversion is retaining the value of the old cube which can be used with the latest Arducopter by replacing the ESC's. I know the new cube has some improved features but not life changing.

After I get that done I'd like to put an arduno between the Solo and the Gimbal and figure out the hero bus Mavlink connections that all the ex 3DR guys are under NDA. I'd like to use a Nex sized gimbal and get all the control that the Solo currently has with the Gopro gimbal.

It will keep me off the streets this winter...

 

[mike_kelly]

Got my "donor" Solo got Arducopter 3.5.3 installed on the original P2.0 then ripped it completely apart. Got an I2C bus extender installed and working. Looks like it will fit my frame very nicely. This is going to be a fun project.

Now to see if I can get the Zubax CAnbus ESC's working.