Solo Cube (Pixhawk 2.0) modification for 5v PWM (safety, and ArduCopter compatibility)

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#2
Holy crap dude. That's some in-depth work there. Not equipped to attempt it myself, will probably continue to design the level-shifter solution tat is in my head, but DAMN!
 
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#4
Of course I have flown it :) - no issues, it works just fine. - it's nothing advanced really, just changing the signal level to 5v - basically what Green Cube does.
 
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#5
Yeah, I know. Thanks for having the intestinal fortitude to try this. I'll be pulling out my PixHawks and doing this mod over the weekend.
 
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#7
Absolutely, I highly recommend the Ublox M8N mod too.
Green cube is much easier. (except I have seen it out of stock for a long time.)
For me, living in Norway, it's an additional delay, IF it were in stock, and 25% VAT on it + shipping, while I can mod all my cubes in a short time "for free".
So it's not for everybody, just an method for those who prefer it. :)
 
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#9
there are PH 2.0 FC´s on ebay for 35$, you could make a service for the guys here on the forum, selling modded stock PH´s to the crowd
 
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#10
@cynfab great , congratulations :) - makes me happy to see somebody found it useful.
@hackbard23 - Anyone un the US could do it, norwegian postal service is too expensive for it to be worth doing in here even if it was 1cm thick when protected, and their greed just increases at items over 2cm thick. :)
 
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#11
VCD, You probably have better surface mount rework equipment than I. It took a lot longer than 15 minutes, but I got one done. Yep those are small parts, and close quarters. View attachment 6967 View attachment 6969
Good job @cynfab Where about's are you located? I have an extra SOLO Pixhawk, perhaps you could mod it for a fee or some solo parts you my need? Let me know and thanks in advance..
 
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#12
Wow, nice work @VCD , thanks for posting it up here. Not for the faint of heart or without good eyes and steady hands.... @cynfab thanks for posting up your take on the processing.

So this will put me on the path to resolving the motor stuttering when applying full stick? Looks like I'll be busting open a boxed bird...just need to convince the wife, I need a microscope...
 
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#13
I'm is Western Colorado, butt I can't see myself doing these mods for other folks, Sorry. A good hot air desoldering tool with the proper tip for those parts would make a big difference. But even then I'm not in a position to do bulk rework. IMHO the Green Cube is a better solution for most folks.
 
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#14
I'm is Western Colorado, butt I can't see myself doing these mods for other folks, Sorry. A good hot air desoldering tool with the proper tip for those parts would make a big difference. But even then I'm not in a position to do bulk rework. IMHO the Green Cube is a better solution for most folks.
Hey I hear Ya, Yeah I'm too old and shaky also blind as a bat....I can barely solder 2 16 gauge wires together...lol
I also do not possess the tools to do the job. I guess the green cube is the way to go thanks for your reply.
 
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#15
So you're just using conformal coating to retain the jumper across the board? And the jumper wire, what is it exactly?...it looks like motor winding wire.
 
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#17
@RichWest yes, it's an enamel insulated silver wire, you could use wire from small motor or small speaker or a few strands of a handsfree cable , basically the same thing but copper. (which is just fine)
 
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#18
i think you can use Polyimide Kapton Tape to shield the other parts around the driver and blow the driver off with a heater gun, then use solder paste to solder the driver with the heater gun again
 
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#20
Is the buffer a flat pack design or with leg'd terminals. Can't get a good angle from the images.

If leg'd, could the one terminal be lifted, as shown below, and still function as intended?

lifted terminal with jumper wire.gif
 

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