Merry T-Motor!

Solo Keith · Jun 16, 2016

THANK YOU @RichWest for this beautiful T-Motor build. The skill you put into this is just sick. And they run sooo.......nice. It's a night & day difference. I'll be installing your gimbal ball invention tomorrow. And thanks for ALL your help here @3DRPILOTS.

pyrate · Jun 16, 2016

you will love them

Pedals2Paddles · Jun 16, 2016

Wow those look sexy. I mean, that makes me hope my motors burn out at 12 months and 1 day.

Solo Keith · Jun 16, 2016

I can't wipe this weird smile off my face. Solo is a totally different beast now. And She is much more sexy now too

RichWest · Jun 16, 2016

Glad they arrived safe and sound. Hopefully they'll provide you with the same experience that I've had with my upgraded motors. They do sound amazing, just like they should...

Again, a big thanks goes out to @RolandS888 for his guidance on the upgraded T-Motors selection. If not for his efforts and experience most of us would still be arguing about bearings and how often to oil or replace.... You da'man.

Toiletbowl · Jun 16, 2016

Solo Keith said:
THANK YOU @RichWest for this beautiful T-Motor build. The skill you put into this is just sick. And they run sooo.......nice. It's a night & day difference. I'll be installing your gimbal ball invention tomorrow. And thanks for ALL your help here @3DRPILOTS.

hello can you visualise how to identify the a b c on tmotors wire due of all black colors becoz im planning to buy too, thanks

RichWest · Jun 16, 2016

@pyrate made a diagram in the motor swap thread...it correctly orients to CW or CCW. The main thing is to mark your wires as 1 - 2 - 3 about 2-3" out from the motor, I drew dots with a silver sharpie onto each wire.

PdxSteve · Jun 17, 2016

Don't think color. Think left, middle, right. Then just connect them the same as the ones you removed for each pod.

pyrate · Jun 17, 2016

that diagram is on the original thread, I found it helpful

Hey guys I tried hot glue to keep the pods together after removing the little plastic posts thath held the other ones together.
Is there a stronger glue that will not kill a PCB

Jubalr · Jun 17, 2016

pyrate said:
that diagram is on the original thread, I found it helpful

Hey guys I tried hot glue to keep the pods together after removing the little plastic posts thath held the other ones together.
Is there a stronger glue that will not kill a PCB

I used regular modeler's super glue, medium viscosity and a quick shot of accelerator. Just did my 2nd set of 4 pods for the new solo I just received on the BB deal.

Toiletbowl · Jun 17, 2016

It would be helpful if there is a digram to follow honestly im not expert in rc thing im worried if i had a mistake to swap instead of thrusting up it could going down hahaha

SurfnSkate81 · Jun 17, 2016

Toiletbowl said:
It would be helpful if there is a digram to follow honestly im not expert in rc thing im worried if i had a mistake to swap instead of thrusting up it could going down hahaha

Read Roland's T-Motor swap post. And then when your done read it again if you need to.

There is also plenty of pictures if your not into reading.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RichWest · Jun 17, 2016

pyrate said:
that diagram is on the original thread, I found it helpful

Hey guys I tried hot glue to keep the pods together after removing the little plastic posts that held the other ones together.
Is there a stronger glue that will not kill a PCB

I actually re-pressed the original plastic tabs on Keith's build, as I used heat to release the tabs when disassembling. Reversing that process by heating the tabs with a hot air solder wand, used an 1/8" metal rod end and pressed them down to the board. I was amazed at how well it turned out, the pod's are tight. Wish he would have taken a picture of that aspect...hint-hint...

But sure, what did others do to re-assemble their pods? Jub's CA method seems ideal if your method was to cut off the tabs. I need to get some CA accelerator....

Maddog · Jun 17, 2016

Jubalr said:
I used regular modeler's super glue, medium viscosity and a quick shot of accelerator. Just did my 2nd set of 4 pods for the new solo I just received on the BB deal.

There are a number of 2-part epoxies that would probably work well too.

Here's one with a self-mixing tube:

PdxSteve · Jun 17, 2016

RichWest said:
I actually re-pressed the original plastic tabs on Keith's build, as I used heat to release the tabs when disassembling. Reversing that process by heating the tabs with a hot air solder wand, used an 1/8" metal rod end and pressed them down to the board. I was amazed at how well it turned out, the pod's are tight. Wish he would have taken a picture of that aspect...hint-hint...

But sure, what did others do to re-assemble their pods? Jub's CA method seems ideal if your method was to cut off the tabs. I need to get some CA accelerator....

I made an ABS (plastic) paste using ABS plastic from my 3d printer and a little acetone. The acetone dissolves the ABS and makes a paste after awhile. Just use it like glue and apply a little dab with a toothpick. It hardens and bonds just as well to the original plastic, which I believe is also ABS. Not for everyone, but if you happen to have a 3d printer around it works great.

pyrate · Jun 17, 2016

so you dont think those supreglues or two part apoxies would attack the pcb?

PdxSteve · Jun 17, 2016

Epoxy won't damage the PCB. A lot of PCB's are actually coated with epoxy. Just don't get it on any actual components as it *could* lift the part when setting, and seeing as how they used leadless solder which isn't very strong, I'd definately steer clear of getting it on a component. On the surface of the board... shouldn't be a problem. Epoxy is also non-conductive.

RichWest · Jun 17, 2016

PdxSteve said:
I made an ABS (plastic) paste using ABS plastic from my 3d printer and a little acetone. The acetone dissolves the ABS and makes a paste after awhile. Just use it like glue and apply a little dab with a toothpick. It hardens and bonds just as well to the original plastic, which I believe is also ABS. Not for everyone, but if you happen to have a 3d printer around it works great.

Interesting idea, I will give it a try....

I got acetone, just need some ABS to play with...hmmm...