Yes, I am new to quads and have been flying the solo enough now I though I was ready for a few Smart shots. Long story short, one shot made the quad head quickly for a fence... I tried the pause button but it didn't stop it. One question; do you hold the pause or just hit it once. OK for the real question after the crash, two broken props, that is easy to replace, however they hit hard enough to over tighten them during the crash. Used a small wrench on the flat spots on the motor shaft / housing however it didn't want to come off. Held the motor housing with large pliers and some electrical tape to around the motor to keep from scratching and to allow more grip.. Well you got it, both shafts now have stripped threads. The prop continued to spin around with the wrench and only came off with some force pulling up. Inspecting the threads you can see there is not much left. Must I replace the entire motor assembly for $60.00 each... :-( please help or can the shafts be replaced ?? Thanks in advance, Rob
Help ... Stripped Threads on the Motor Shafts
- Thread starter Rob Hunt
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Hello Rob, sorry about your mishap. You might try a thread chaser but judging from your pic you're going to need motor pod(s). If your handy with a solder station you might try swapping out the stock motors for some Tiger V2 KV800 MT-2216 T-Motors.
Motors Swapped to T-Motor 2216-12 800kV
RolandS888 (et al.) have done a phenomenal job documenting this swap and compiling performance data on this and other motors including the stock ones.
The biggest motivating factor for me was the improved bearings over stock.
So, you have some options. Please post whatever you decide to do and why, as this will help others. Clear Skies to you!
Motors Swapped to T-Motor 2216-12 800kV
RolandS888 (et al.) have done a phenomenal job documenting this swap and compiling performance data on this and other motors including the stock ones.
The biggest motivating factor for me was the improved bearings over stock.
So, you have some options. Please post whatever you decide to do and why, as this will help others. Clear Skies to you!
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Let me address the Pause button issue.
If Solo (or any GPS quad) appears to drift uncontrollably while in GPS mode, the likely problem is a loss of GPS clarity or GPS altogether. It appears to be far and away the biggest destroyer of GPS quads of all brands. Since Pause is GPS based, it will be of absolutely no use in this case no matter how long you press the button.
With the configurable buttons on the Solo controller, you should set one or both to go to Fly:manual mode. This mode decouples the aircraft from GPS guidance. Should your Solo appear to shoot off in a direction you didn't want it to while in Fly mode (GPS guided), you can quickly hit your A or B button set to Fly:manual and quickly regain control. Note that this requires that you practice in manual mode often to be able to recover while moving.
This item is SO important, you'll see I have included it in my signature and it is listed first in the FAQ.
If Solo (or any GPS quad) appears to drift uncontrollably while in GPS mode, the likely problem is a loss of GPS clarity or GPS altogether. It appears to be far and away the biggest destroyer of GPS quads of all brands. Since Pause is GPS based, it will be of absolutely no use in this case no matter how long you press the button.
With the configurable buttons on the Solo controller, you should set one or both to go to Fly:manual mode. This mode decouples the aircraft from GPS guidance. Should your Solo appear to shoot off in a direction you didn't want it to while in Fly mode (GPS guided), you can quickly hit your A or B button set to Fly:manual and quickly regain control. Note that this requires that you practice in manual mode often to be able to recover while moving.
This item is SO important, you'll see I have included it in my signature and it is listed first in the FAQ.
Rob said he was in a smart shot when Solo flew off. I thought the smart shots were GPS guided, and thus the pause button should have worked, no?
According to the Solo manual PAUSE is available anytime as long as GPS lock was attained..
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Precisely. If it's in a Smartshot and pulls that stunt, it has likely lost 1 or more satellites and thinks it is somewhere it isn't. It then tries to compensate by scooting over to where it thinks it should be. It is while it is doing this that the GPS data has become unreliable and the Pause button will not work as expected.
Possible the resolve to the stripped threads, is to replace the motor bells only. Several people have replaced stock motors only, so there are a few sitting as paper weights never to be used again. Maybe someone will cough some up for your cause.
I don't think there is enough material to chase the threads and feel confident it will work as intended. Further you're not going to chase that short of a shaft to clean up the full 3 threads.
I'd buy new motor pods....and be done.
I don't think there is enough material to chase the threads and feel confident it will work as intended. Further you're not going to chase that short of a shaft to clean up the full 3 threads.
I'd buy new motor pods....and be done.
I have a feeling the OP went the wrong direction when removing with the wrench - the prop turns opposite of the arrow on the pod when removing. I just don't see how it's possible for them to strip like that and we've seen a lot of crashes on here. Not trying to assign blame, but it just looks like that's what happened to me.
But I 2nd @RichWest and would get some replacements, as well as some spares. I'd keep the old pods. The motor bell is toast but the ESC is valuable if you ever decide to upgrade motors.
But I 2nd @RichWest and would get some replacements, as well as some spares. I'd keep the old pods. The motor bell is toast but the ESC is valuable if you ever decide to upgrade motors.
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That was my thought as well. Not sure how you could strip the threads like that without going the wrong way.
@Rob Hunt ..I have a couple of Solo motors I could send you. Just pay for shipping. You could either use the motors as is or pull the parts needed. This would be just the motors, not ESCs. Let me know..
After the stress of the first crash, I can't say 100% that I didn't turn them the wrong way... I thought I looked a the arrows and turned the opposite way, but now looking after the fact, this does appear to be the simple cause.. Odd thing is both stripped motors are the "black" rotation motors. These would be a normal nut and bolt rotation for loosing. So that is strange that it wasn't the "silver" motors. If I turned the normal nut and bolt rotation with the siliver motors, this would have resulted in the stripping problem. Anyway, thank you everyone ... what a great knowledge base here ! And thanks for the offer to send old motors Nice idea, but for now I will be ordering a couple new Motor Assemblies. Also I can't be sure I lost GPS so don't over analyze that. I think it was a newbee mistake for not being high enough during my first Orbit test. By the time I hit pause I was too far along. I think you still must allow the quad to have some space to recover. Regards, Rob
I've had a few crashes early on. I'm sure I'll have another sometime. Sometimes black, sometimes silver, sometimes a pair, sometimes 3 or all 4 lol. It's just random depending on exactly what happened.
I think it looks like the silverish stuff on the motor is the threads from the propeller. And the tiny black lines are the tops of the motor threads.
I crashed my Solo into a lake today. I was setting up a Mpcc shot. When I pressed A for my starting position, I noticed Solo get a little wobbly for a few seconds, and then stabilize. I flew to the second place I wanted to set and pressed A. Solo immediately lost all control and descended rapidly into the lake. Full up throttle had no response. I must say that it was spectacular. Solo was retrieved as it sank...was under water about 5 seconds.
Battery is fried...I am sure the bird and gimbal are as well...GoPro seems to have survived.
This is the second crash while setting up a Mpcc shot. First one happened in an area with lots of trees, so I chalked that one up to loss of gps signal.
I wish the bird would just hover if it loses signal.
Hoping for a replacement bird, gimbal, battery and props.
Battery is fried...I am sure the bird and gimbal are as well...GoPro seems to have survived.
This is the second crash while setting up a Mpcc shot. First one happened in an area with lots of trees, so I chalked that one up to loss of gps signal.
I wish the bird would just hover if it loses signal.
Hoping for a replacement bird, gimbal, battery and props.
it goes into fly manual. that is why so many people say practice manual and map a button to manual for quick excape
When I get in trouble I hit manual and climb fast. More forgiving up there. But you have to be fast
When I get in trouble I hit manual and climb fast. More forgiving up there. But you have to be fast
I understand going into Fly Manual and I fly in that mode (Altitude Hold) often. If it switches into Fly Manual shouldn't it just hover and drift with the wind? Not begin a rapid decent? Now I've had my Solo since August 2015 and have never lost GPS (I know I can't believe it either) and never crashed ( knock on wood ) still on my original Pods and Props although I know it will happen sometime. I think I got most of my crashes out of the way on my Iris+. When I've flown Solo in a large indoor Gymnasium in Fly Manual I notice a lot of vertical issues but just chalk that up to not being outdoors in free air. The gym is partly below ground and with the ventilation system must be causing weird pressure differences. I should probably just fly in Satbilize indoors but I don't like Stabilize with the left stick centering the throttle. Anyway whenever I switch from Fly aka Loiter into Fly Manual aka Altitude Hold I never loose (or gain) altitude just get some wind drift that I compensate for.
You're right, when Solo switches to Fly:Manual it should not descend. Mine never has. It hovers and drifts with the wind until I take control. I have lost GPS a couple of times and it has never descended.
I don't know how it will behave on 2.4- yet.
I've switched from Fly to Fly Manual in 2.4 and it reacts just as it did in previous versions. Still haven't lost GPS yet so that is an unknown for me but I still think it should just start to drift with the wind or previous momentum.
I see Michael crashed his solo into a lake. I just lost mine into a creek. I set point A at the bow of a boat, a way point at the stern, and point B about 30 or 40 metres above. I pressed play on the cable cam and it went straight into the water from point B. I hit the break/pause button but that made no difference. I have no idea what I did wrong. Is this gps? If I replace it how can I ever trust it over water again?
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