Gimbal data cable - Admitted wrong theory

How can I get in on one of these? :) Nice work, I've been wanting to replace the HDMI for quite a while. Sign me up for a couple of each~
 
How can I get in on one of these? :) Nice work, I've been wanting to replace the HDMI for quite a while. Sign me up for a couple of each~

Give me a week or so and I should be able to get a batch ready.

Don't know if you saw the DIY HDMI cable I made, but I'm definitely NOT offering to make those... soldering them is the definition of tedious! :p

Rich, what did you do with the HDMI cable? I know some people stripped off an inch or two of the insulation, others replaced the whole thing with the ribbon from Relish.
 
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Rich, what did you do with the HDMI cable? I know some people stripped off an inch or two of the insulation, others replaced the whole thing with the ribbon from Relish.
I heat formed it to make it around the first isolator and also removed a portion to the main board support to reduce the hdmi making contact. Didn't strip the jacket, didn't feel it had an effect...still don't. Thread is here somewhere...

No dig against Relish's ribbon cable, but it didn't seem to work well as it would make contact with the PH. It would still be worth a try considering your mod...in the solution.

OK, so I just got back from flying my local field. Went through several frame rates, 24, 30 and 60... @erikgraham would like the results. I pan/yaw too fast for 24, 30 looked better and 60 was smooth.

Also the by-product of knocking out the micro vibes is that the camera now controls the light better. What I thought I knew and what to use will now have to change. I will go with WB to native and will likely set color to flat. The captured light is just different from my previous setup(s)...lot more to learn. CP filter performed better than CP/ND8, I prefer less dark, the camera works well when everything is smoother...

People, I don't want to come across as over selling the solution or that it has solved the issue entirely, but holy shit... This is night and day type of results regarding micro vibes on my setup. I guess this is now Solo 2.0

I'll post up some videos later, I had rescheduled my day to go fly and I'm late for Linner now. So it will be later this evening, my apology.
 
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I heat formed it to make it around the first isolator and also removed a portion to the main board support to reduce the hdmi making contact. Didn't strip the jacket, didn't feel it had an effect...still don't. Thread is here somewhere...

No dig against Relish's ribbon cable, but it didn't seem to work well as it would make contact with the PH. It would still be worth a try considering your mod...in the solution.

OK, so I just got back from flying my local field. Went through several frame rates, 24, 30 and 60... @erikgraham would like the results. I pan/yaw too fast for 24, 30 looked better and 60 was smooth.

Also the by-product of knocking out the micro vibes is that the camera now controls the light better. What I thought I knew and what to use will now have to change. I will go with WB to native and will likely set color to flat. The captured light is just different from my previous setup(s)...lot more to learn. CP filter performed better than CP/ND8, I prefer less dark, the camera works well when everything is smoother...

People, I don't want to come across as over selling the solution or that it has solved the issue entirely, but holy shit... This is night and day type of results regarding micro vibes on my setup. I guess this is now Solo 2.0

I'll post up some videos later, I had rescheduled my day to go fly and I'm late for Linner now. So it will be later this evening, my apology.
I run my CP filter alone more than I run the NDs for the same reason
 
I'm still on a big learning curve in regards to filters and of course editing. Not something I'm real interested in, but it's pulling me in piece by piece. Kudo's to those that can though, it's an art. I'm just trying to stretch the canvas over the frame...
 
@User Name sign me up for a cable too!

Sounds good! I have a bunch of housings and headers ordered and will start making them ASAP.

Let me see how long it takes to make them once I'm doing them in greater numbers than just one at a time, but what would people think of somewhere around $20 to $22 or so shipped (USPS in the US)?
 
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Hmmm, seems Solo kind of likes gusty winds....

Yes, the trees outside the square compound are swaying and the trees inside the compound too... this is VERY good stable result Rich. What lens size are using BTW ? 3.97mm ?

The only time the gimbal twitch is at 0:24 , because you suddenly change course to the left and I think you tap the throttle twice, that is quite normal twitch.

Thanks for sharing...
 
wow..fisheye so little when camera so flat to horizon...
 
with stock lens, shoot 2.7k medium
de fish in studio or in edit program with lens correction
crop to 1080P
No fisheye with the stock lens
I shot like that for a long time before giving in to the flat lens,
It works great, but adds steps
 
Sounds good! I have a bunch of housings and headers ordered and will start making them ASAP.

Let me see how long it takes to make them once I'm doing them in greater numbers than just one at a time, but what would people think of somewhere around $20 to $22 or so shipped (USPS in the US)?

I would be happy to pay $20.
 
[QUOTE="User Name, post: 105294, member: 1470"Let me see how long it takes to make them once I'm doing them in greater numbers than just one at a time, but what would people think of somewhere around $20 to $22 or so shipped (USPS in the US)?[/QUOTE]

Sound good to me, if you've enough put me down for two.
 
Any chance of international postage? Maybe we can get a group buy going in the UK?
 
Any chance of international postage? Maybe we can get a group buy going in the UK?

No problem shipping international, it'll probably just be a dollar or two more. Once I get them made, I can check with the post office what the cost would be.
 
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Rich- looks good but I had a thought.
It might be easier to compare the various "fixes" you are testing by setting up a smart shot and running Solo through the same smart shot after each change.

That way you could compare the results of a fix more easily.

That is a GREAT idea!
 

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