Solo is less responsive but more solid and precise. I noticed Solo moves more gracefully, less whipping around. Solo required less roll and pitch angle to go where I wanted, this resulted in less gimbal movement to stabilize the camera.
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I'm mainly posting this video so you can hear the sound of the 11" props, very different than the stock props.
That's noticeably quieter! Is it the length or the material that helps quiet it down?
What angle was the gimble at? Noticed only the right prop is creeping into the frame. Maybe camera is not straight?
I haven't done any calibrations since the last update including the gimbal.
Is there a procedure for calibrating the gimbal? I searched the forum and didn't see anything.
its is the level calbibration in soloIs there a procedure for calibrating the gimbal? I searched the forum and didn't see anything.
So are these props pretty much plug and play or like OP said do they not properly fit without a bit of handywork? Also will these work on the stock motors as well or will this be too much prop for them?
My Solo is pulling about 13.5 amps at cruise and 18-19 amps turning and maneuvering.
I bet you have all of 1-1/2 threads engaged. Like anything, time will tell...While not ideal it works well and I have about a dozen flights on them with no issues.
It is believed doing a stick calibration will correct gimbal problems. Doing an accelerometer and compass calibration then facing North during boot are also suppose to help.
You forgot burying a chicken's claw, 3 baby teeth, a tuft of hair from a Yuneec pilot and a left rear prop from a Phantom in your back yard. Do that, and your Solo will always fly perfectly, guaranteed!
When you say reaming does that mean higher tollerance end mill or just drilling the hole bigger? Is a prop reamer something I can pick up at my local hobby shop? Sorry, haven't ever really done anything like this before.The 11" APC MR ST props come with a 6mm nut that fits Solo's motors. There is a molded in recess at the top of the prop for the nut to sit.
Solo's, motors have a short threaded section at the tip of the motor shaft then a larger diameter shoulder underneath.
The stock props have a tall T nut molded into the prop hub which raise the props off the motor bell face. With the APC props I used a standard mm prop reamer to enlarge the lower prop hub to fit over the shoulder. This allows he prop hub to drop down onto the top of the motor and about 1/2 the nut to engage.
While not ideal it works well and I have about a dozen flights on them with no issues. I would like to turn some proper T nuts that raise the props and grab more threads
I'm sold on the 11" props for flight time, smoothness and reduced noise.
There may be other 11" props out there with a hub that fits with no mods, I haven't looked.
As far as being too much prop I will find out. My Solo is now a year old and I pushed my motors beyond normal use with no failures. I flew ACRO for a couple months as well a dozens of high speed runs with no failures. I flew with a stock Solo earlier this week and surprisingly it seemed my motors were running cooler than his. My Solo is pulling about 13.5 amps at cruise and 18-19 amps turning and maneuvering.
Sweet Acro there. I got another Solo to practice some of that good stuffActually doing a stick calibration for gimbal issues has helped, and is recommended by 3DR.
Solo gimbal not pointing straing ahead
I had to do Voodoo to get my Solo to stop turning over
When you say reaming does that mean higher tollerance end mill or just drilling the hole bigger? Is a prop reamer something I can pick up at my local hobby shop? Sorry, haven't ever really done anything like this before.
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