The search for HDMI ( video feed ) issue...

[SPP]

Guys,

Now I joined the "HDMI Cable Issue Club" and since I tried 4.4mm lens, I am seeing also micro vibrations

I have read all these :
Check this if your having video feed problems"

Macro vibe reduction?

So has anyone found a cable other than

Frustrated, needing some help.

Video feed issues


It was a very unlucky weekend for me 25 - 26th March.
I knew I had minor HDMI feed issue to begin with, months ago after I changed to T Motor, but since I cant fly my drone, I cant test it to the fullest. It was that greenish video feed issue. A minor shaky shaky to the camera's male HDMI at gimbal and repower camera would do the trick. I can shake the drone, all seems good. That is until I fly it

I have removed the gimbal to check the fat HDMI cable , but I did not go all the way to motherboard side of the HDMI.

Anyway, I practically lost video feed 90% of the time during like 5 flights. Video feed lost the moment I throttle for take off. So it is vibration caused problem. So I cant do much to test my new T-Motor and practice cable cam beyond 100 meters away. I can't see well the heading of my drone and i cant aim the camera without video feed

01. After reading all above useful post, I know among others to troubleshoot, I also got to try the motherboard side of the HDMI.
02. I decided I will not use Relish cable or other flat ribbon cable.
03. The fat HDMI is okey, I tried direct GoPro to my video goggle and shake it, all good.

What I fear if not the female HDMI at motherboard side , it is the Female HDMI at the gimbal board side or Male HDMI for the GoPro camera. This is a ribbon cable HDMI made by 3DR and no way I can replace them. Must replace new gimbal.

Problems of HDMI can be a combination, since there are total of 6 HDMI connections if male + female counted individually.

AA - Male HDMI cable of gimbal to GoPro's camera female HDMI. 2 connections here.
This connection doesn't move at the HDMI connection, its is quite robust.

BB. Female HDMI at motherboard to male HDMI of fat HDMI cable. 2 connections here.
This connection doesn't move, its is quite robust.

CC - Female HDMI port of gimbal board to male fat HDMI cable. 2 connections here.
This is the riskiest part I see, that female HDMI port at the gimbal circuit board.

This is the only area where the HDMI connection must experience the gimbal movement, albeit only like 15 degrees left and right.

Rich West video can show, the female HDMI connector at gimbal board will experience twisting force everytime the gimbal is off center.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Screen capture....


In my case, my female HDMI at gimbal board is having bad connection when the gimbal spin to the right.



Imagine, such a small connector having 20 pins ( 1 is ground ), 10 on top, 9 below.

Hdmi Cable Pin Diagram - Wiring Schematics and Diagrams

I think the 3DR design of its gimbal female HDMI connection at gimbal circuit board is quite a weak link and will be a constant consumeable, more so for those who fly very aggressively. HDMI and being the mini type is not designed for constant movement.

Imagine this, 5.9mm is the width of the HDMI male plug.
If there are 10 pins top side, spacing plus placement of 1 single pin is only 0.59mm as maximum, it surely is less due to two end sides spacing requirement. Lets take 0.5mm per pin and spacing, if we divide equally the amount of copper contact will be 0.25 only and the spacing of 0.25mm ?? Wow so micro

This doc stated 0.4mm per pin spacing for soldering at board side micro HDMI ...holy crap !! Replacing this female HDMI port is probably impossible without specialized soldering tool and a microscope, if done manually.
http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/467650001_sd.pdf

Screen capture...


I think the better way for this HDMI connection from gimbal is : by wire out from gimbal circuit board, pre-soldered cable . No need HDMI cable type, but some sort of HD 720p capable video cable and the connector and cable is the something capable of "play" to allow limited gimbal movement. The problem I see here is that the motherboad side where it has the HDMI connection, is located as such total tear down is required to access it . Some sort of intermediate connection will be needed between gimbal to motherboard if gimbal only troubleshooting/removal required. A potential intermittent contact nightmare too, if non soldered intermediate connection exist

Looking at the fat HDMI male cable for the gimbal, i can imagine the load on the female HDMI port, gimbal circuit board side....must be decently strong to create the problem I am having.
I seen damages to a GoPro female HDMI port often too.

I found a coiling wire type micro HDMI, but it has a wrong 90 degrees angle. I can't find straight micro HDMI with coiling wire. Many DSLR users also experience female port HDMI damage, hence Atomos made this coiling wire. Atomos Right-Angle Micro to Micro HDMI Coiled Cable ATOMCAB005
I also dont know if the "fatness" of its coil will be a problem for 3DR Solo...

Now that Solo Gimbal is so cheap at US$58, perhaps buying spare 2 or 3 units would be a wiser option.
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Solo,The Smart Drone, 3-Axis Gimbal for GoPro. Model #GB11A

Nevertheless, its a pain to know that these gimbals will eventually be useless after so many hours of
operation if the female HDMI port is a consumeable-by-movement item. My total flight time on my Solo is probably max 2 hours total.

I like my Solo a lot but it seems it will be high maintenance...


Any ideas from you guys on how I can avoid bad contact at the gimbal female HDMI port ?
The gimbal movement is the culprit for sure, but fat HDMI cable and such micro size HDMI female port is not helping either. Dang !!

Thanks in advance...

 

[SPP]

Since I did a tear down on my Solo to troubleshoot this video feed / HDMI issue.

I might as well weight each components and share with you guys... LOL
.


.


.

.

 

[RichWest]

I'd just replace the gimbal and be done, but if you can't...then....

Solo Gimbal Micro-HDMI (Type-D) connector replacement

I don't think it's a case of the hdmi connector being weak, but the lead-free solder and the amount securing the anchor posts is where the weakness lies. Looking over 5 different gimbals reveals an inconsistent amount of solder applied to these anchor posts..some fine and others marginal. Doesn't mean any of them will fail, just an observation.

Further when users have placed the hdmi cable behind the post or anchor it by some other means it tends to "work" at the connector on the gimbal. Also ham-fisting the gimbal install has its own issues.

My opinion, the stock hdmi works fine. It actually helps to reduce the micro vibes if properly routed and supported. Again the Macro Vibe reduction thread is a good starting point for others interested in making the effort to reduce vibes. I'm not selling anything, so I'm not motivated in selling anyone on the solutions I've offered.

Nice detailed write up btw....

 

[SPP]

Holy Cow Rich !! U have stable cool fingers and decent eyes. I can never solder something so small...no way.
I may have access to a hot air solder station but I think buying a new gimbal is a better option for me.... LOL.

Does this solder quality look decent to you ?



I have a 2nd Solo and can take its gimbal

Thanks Rich.

 

[RichWest]

Does this solder quality look decent to you ?

Yes, that would be a great solder job for the anchor tabs. With my original gimbal I had video issues, I think it was one or two of the nineteen terminals failed in some manner. I had the green screen issue. Still using the original hdmi cable....

My eyes are weak, but have a jeweler's hood to help me see these fine details. And credit to the circuit board quality, I made 4 attempts at soldering a connector on, the board held up very well considering the repeated heating done. It was not skill, just dumb luck...

 

[RichWest]

Also @User Name made a short hdmi cable - DIY HDMI cable Not sure if he is still using it, but it was a nice alternative solution

 

[SPP]

Hi Rich,

That @User Name DIY HDMI cable does look interesting.
Maybe that Amazon sourced PCB based HDMI connector and the Atomos coiled HDMI wire may work, all I need is one end of the Atomos wire to use that DIY HDMI male plug.
But I must make a break-out board to identify which wires goes where and will use the biggest HDMI adapter for that. No way I can use my multimeter to test the pin out connections, even with the help of a needle as a probe.


I done shake test with my back up Solo's gimbal and its okey.

Here is the test :

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

With Avegant Glyph.

The Glyph seems not to freeze image when signal get cut off, unlike my Dell 27".
However, I am using the Solo original fat HDMI.

When I tested that defective gimbal with Dell 27", I was using GoPro's HDMI cable , micro to full size one.
Perhaps there was another set of "variable" from that GoPro HDMI cable

The Glyhp will return to its video stand-by mode, that round black image on white background, if there is a video signal cut off.

I took a closer look, I just realized that the gimbal circuit board will not move even when gimbal is fighting to stabilize, but that circuit board being floated by the 4 rubber balls will probably do only move upon directional change of the drone. So I supposed if I do not fly aggressively, my gimbal HDMI related issues may not come back too soon...LOL.

I do agree with your method to cut part of the corner gusset to avoid the fat HDMI cable being squeezed and touching the rubber ball. Excellent observation my friend.
http://3drpilots.com/attachments/solo_frame-strut_contact-hdmi_4-jpg.3070/

Thanks
.

 

[RichWest]

Are you still flying with the KDE motors? I'm still on my T-Motor 800's and they are still top notch.

 

[SPP]

Nope, this Solo is on T Motor. I never get to use the KDE, after my dyno test showed it is not that efficient.
I love the T Motor

If I have time and get itchy fingers, maybe my 2nd Solo will use the KDE, for reliability sake though, not efficiency.
Solo original motor bearing wise is not so long lived I think..

 

[Trader J]

Also @User Name made a short hdmi cable - DIY HDMI cable Not sure if he is still using it, but it was a nice alternative solution

I actually
I just ordered a diy HDMI ribbon cable along with the flat type D male connectors all for only $10 on eBay. The only drawback is that it is coming from China, but at a third of what Relish 3d is asking for the exact same thing it was an easy decision. Plus the connectors are actually solderless which was a major deciding factor for me! When it shows up I'll post a pic of it.

 

[Trader J]

These are the connectors I got for my DIY HDMI ribbon cable.

 

[RichWest]

These are the connectors I got for my DIY HDMI ribbon cable

Unfortunately I wish it would have been that easy to source the ribbon connectors. I believe 3D Relish had made a special circuit board to be shorter in the overall length. Why the perceived higher cost. The off the shelf version, possibly like yours, was long and made contact with the PH cube.

There are several older threads here discussing alternative hdmi cables, ribbons or diy. Plenty of time, money and conversations spent to find a solution. I have yet to hear of anyone finding an agreeable alternative to the stock hdmi cable.

Again, I have no issues with how the stock hdmi cable interacts with the gimbal. Not perfect by any means, but no gimbal is perfectly stable. Most videos that appear buttery smooth are the results of post stabilization software and expert editing skills. Neither of which do I possess.

 

[Trader J]

Unfortunately I wish it would have been that easy to source the ribbon connectors. I believe 3D Relish had made a special circuit board to be shorter in the overall length. Why the perceived higher cost. The off the shelf version, possibly like yours, was long and made contact with the PH cube.

There are several older threads here discussing alternative hdmi cables, ribbons or diy. Plenty of time, money and conversations spent to find a solution. I have yet to hear of anyone finding an agreeable alternative to the stock hdmi cable.

Again, I have no issues with how the stock hdmi cable interacts with the gimbal. Not perfect by any means, but no gimbal is perfectly stable. Most videos that appear buttery smooth are the results of post stabilization software and expert editing skills. Neither of which do I possess.

I'm not all that worried about it coming in contact with the PH, if anything I worry whether it will fit on the gimbal side. I might have to get an angled HDMI connector for the gimbal side if the flat connector doesn't fit right, but I'm assuming what I got will work just like the R3D ribbon cable. We will see!

 

[RichWest]

I'm not all that worried about it coming in contact with the PH, if anything I worry whether it will fit on the gimbal side. I might have to get an angled HDMI connector for the gimbal side if the flat connector doesn't fit right, but I'm assuming what I got will work just like the R3D ribbon cable. We will see!

Look forward to your results success...

 

[Trader J]

Unfortunately I wish it would have been that easy to source the ribbon connectors. I believe 3D Relish had made a special circuit board to be shorter in the overall length. Why the perceived higher cost. The off the shelf version, possibly like yours, was long and made contact with the PH cube.

There are several older threads here discussing alternative hdmi cables, ribbons or diy. Plenty of time, money and conversations spent to find a solution. I have yet to hear of anyone finding an agreeable alternative to the stock hdmi cable.

Again, I have no issues with how the stock hdmi cable interacts with the gimbal. Not perfect by any means, but no gimbal is perfectly stable. Most videos that appear buttery smooth are the results of post stabilization software and expert editing skills. Neither of which do I possess.

BTW I think the connectors I got are almost identical to that of the R3D ribbon cable which leads me to believe that the so called custom circuit board was sourced from the same Chinese manufacturer and is actually a stock part. I could be wrong but I can't tell any difference from comparing the two pics side by side. Personally I like to save money whenever possible but even more I'm all about DIY when I can.

 

[SPP]

Okey......UPDATE ...

Got my Solo #2 gimbal on my #1. All good now, at least by testing with :
01. Hand shake-shake ( no flying )
02. Tested on my anchored down plywood base. I test drone full throttle with props using this.

I did something more aggressive than the nice mod Rich West did here :
Macro vibe reduction?

I cut all off the battery bay/circuit board mount hole and its gusset, COMPLETELY ...LOL



Since I do not do acro flips, and the battery weight is pushing down on battery tray.. the battery bay plastic assy total has 7 screws : 3 at GPS and 4 at battery bay deeper part, I am not worried loosing 1 screw

Motherboard loosing 1 screw, no worry too.

NOT YET FLYING, but the video stabilization upon full throttle with props on my plywood anchoring base , seems promising. Usually I get gimbal shake when I do full throttle acceleration ( take-off ), first is due to motor speeding up vibration and secondly the strong wind caused by the props hitting the pylwood base and the gimbal ....when Solo maintained that full throtlle. Solo get "fooled" when being anchored down, it keep maintaining full throttle as its barometer is not sensing height increase ...ha ha ha.

While I was re-assembling the Solo, I accidentally found out something.
I was not paying close attention when installing motor pod no 3.
What happen was, I installed the wrong motor pod, which is no 4, simply a wrong rotation motor.
I noticed I cant seems to flush the motor plastic bracket with the Solo frame..1 mm the motor plastic bracket protruded

Then I realized Solo frame and its motor pod plastic case has small plastic notch so that we can avoid such mistake. Dumb Me


.


BTW, I have asked a USA friend a favor, get me 3 of the gimbals on Amazon.
Need to keep spares.

End of Report..., for now

Till I fly this Solo #1 , that is

 

[Fly-Hi-Photography]

Guys,

Now I joined the "HDMI Cable Issue Club" and since I tried 4.4mm lens, I am seeing also micro vibrations

I have read all these :
Check this if your having video feed problems"

Macro vibe reduction?

So has anyone found a cable other than

Frustrated, needing some help.

Video feed issues


It was a very unlucky weekend for me 25 - 26th March.
I knew I had minor HDMI feed issue to begin with, months ago after I changed to T Motor, but since I cant fly my drone, I cant test it to the fullest. It was that greenish video feed issue. A minor shaky shaky to the camera's male HDMI at gimbal and repower camera would do the trick. I can shake the drone, all seems good. That is until I fly it

I have removed the gimbal to check the fat HDMI cable , but I did not go all the way to motherboard side of the HDMI.

Anyway, I practically lost video feed 90% of the time during like 5 flights. Video feed lost the moment I throttle for take off. So it is vibration caused problem. So I cant do much to test my new T-Motor and practice cable cam beyond 100 meters away. I can't see well the heading of my drone and i cant aim the camera without video feed

01. After reading all above useful post, I know among others to troubleshoot, I also got to try the motherboard side of the HDMI.
02. I decided I will not use Relish cable or other flat ribbon cable.
03. The fat HDMI is okey, I tried direct GoPro to my video goggle and shake it, all good.

What I fear if not the female HDMI at motherboard side , it is the Female HDMI at the gimbal board side or Male HDMI for the GoPro camera. This is a ribbon cable HDMI made by 3DR and no way I can replace them. Must replace new gimbal.

Problems of HDMI can be a combination, since there are total of 6 HDMI connections if male + female counted individually.

AA - Male HDMI cable of gimbal to GoPro's camera female HDMI. 2 connections here.
This connection doesn't move at the HDMI connection, its is quite robust.

BB. Female HDMI at motherboard to male HDMI of fat HDMI cable. 2 connections here.
This connection doesn't move, its is quite robust.

CC - Female HDMI port of gimbal board to male fat HDMI cable. 2 connections here.
This is the riskiest part I see, that female HDMI port at the gimbal circuit board.
View attachment 5769
This is the only area where the HDMI connection must experience the gimbal movement, albeit only like 15 degrees left and right.

Rich West video can show, the female HDMI connector at gimbal board will experience twisting force everytime the gimbal is off center.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Screen capture....
View attachment 5770

In my case, my female HDMI at gimbal board is having bad connection when the gimbal spin to the right.
View attachment 5771


Imagine, such a small connector having 20 pins ( 1 is ground ), 10 on top, 9 below.

Hdmi Cable Pin Diagram - Wiring Schematics and Diagrams

I think the 3DR design of its gimbal female HDMI connection at gimbal circuit board is quite a weak link and will be a constant consumeable, more so for those who fly very aggressively. HDMI and being the mini type is not designed for constant movement.

Imagine this, 5.9mm is the width of the HDMI male plug.
If there are 10 pins top side, spacing plus placement of 1 single pin is only 0.59mm as maximum, it surely is less due to two end sides spacing requirement. Lets take 0.5mm per pin and spacing, if we divide equally the amount of copper contact will be 0.25 only and the spacing of 0.25mm ?? Wow so micro

This doc stated 0.4mm per pin spacing for soldering at board side micro HDMI ...holy crap !! Replacing this female HDMI port is probably impossible without specialized soldering tool and a microscope, if done manually.
http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/467650001_sd.pdf

Screen capture...
View attachment 5772

I think the better way for this HDMI connection from gimbal is : by wire out from gimbal circuit board, pre-soldered cable . No need HDMI cable type, but some sort of HD 720p capable video cable and the connector and cable is the something capable of "play" to allow limited gimbal movement. The problem I see here is that the motherboad side where it has the HDMI connection, is located as such total tear down is required to access it . Some sort of intermediate connection will be needed between gimbal to motherboard if gimbal only troubleshooting/removal required. A potential intermittent contact nightmare too, if non soldered intermediate connection exist

Looking at the fat HDMI male cable for the gimbal, i can imagine the load on the female HDMI port, gimbal circuit board side....must be decently strong to create the problem I am having.
I seen damages to a GoPro female HDMI port often too.

I found a coiling wire type micro HDMI, but it has a wrong 90 degrees angle. I can't find straight micro HDMI with coiling wire. Many DSLR users also experience female port HDMI damage, hence Atomos made this coiling wire. Atomos Right-Angle Micro to Micro HDMI Coiled Cable ATOMCAB005
I also dont know if the "fatness" of its coil will be a problem for 3DR Solo...

Now that Solo Gimbal is so cheap at US$58, perhaps buying spare 2 or 3 units would be a wiser option.
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Solo,The Smart Drone, 3-Axis Gimbal for GoPro. Model #GB11A

Nevertheless, its a pain to know that these gimbals will eventually be useless after so many hours of
operation if the female HDMI port is a consumeable-by-movement item. My total flight time on my Solo is probably max 2 hours total.

I like my Solo a lot but it seems it will be high maintenance...


Any ideas from you guys on how I can avoid bad contact at the gimbal female HDMI port ?
The gimbal movement is the culprit for sure, but fat HDMI cable and such micro size HDMI female port is not helping either. Dang !!

Thanks in advance...

The fix I've posted in other forums is poor design by 3dr. The receptors are loose. Ny solution was to insert foam pad under both connection port. On board and on gimbal. Gently crimp both connection ports for HDMI, securely insert cable with foam pad underneath and super glue or dab hot glue to keep hdmi cable inserted to port on both ends. Both ends board and gimbal. Vibration causes the HDMI cable to shake in connection causing loss green flickering screen. I'll post pic of what in talking about when I get home.
Hope this helps.

 

[SPP]

Fly,

Thank you...

If you take time to read the 1st post, that foam thingy is there at the link :
Steve Reno post ...
Check this if your having video feed problems"

Anyway my issue as explained, is not that HDMI at motherboard, it was the gimbal and I tested it, post #7

 

[Fly-Hi-Photography]

My bad just saw the header thought I'd throw in what worked for me. All the best

 

[RichWest]

I did something more aggressive than the nice mod Rich West did here :
Macro vibe reduction?

Wow, you were aggressive....anxious to know how it works for you....