Solo Gimbal Micro-HDMI (Type-D) connector replacement

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EDIT: Match to Stock connector, Type-D HDMI connector
Amphenol 10118242-001RLF, Digi-Key Part Number 609-4617-1-ND

I was able to replace a Gimbal’s micro-hdmi connector on the circuit board. @Solo Keith was kind enough to send me his failed gimbal, he’d ripped the connector off while installing the hdmi cable. This failure was a clean break from the board. No solder pads were damaged. I guess this is the benefit to lead-free solder, not a strong bond to the circuit board.

I had tried several times with a Molex connector and was constantly having the terminals bridge when adjusting into position on the pads while the solder was wet. I ended up using a WURTH 685119248123 Micro-HDMI from Mouser. This version of the connector has the pins supported, which kept the pins separated while aligning the connector in the wet solder to the pads. It appears similar to the factory connector in that its connector supported the pins as well.

As seen in the photo the Wurth has two locator/pivot pins, I had to file those off to allow the connector to sit flush to the board. Otherwise the hidden set of terminal pins were high off the pads and would not contact the pads enough to wick the solder. I’m sure there is exact connector available, but you use what is available…

Anyway, the micro-hdmi connector has a blind row of terminals. A Hot-Air Solder station is really the only method to solder on the replacement. Also all work was done with the circuit board on the gimbal. I had removed the beauty plate with the dampers and then moved it away from the circuit board. I used a thermal barrier to place in between the BP and the circuit board. Controlling the hot air away from the gimbal’s hub kept all other components relatively free of most of the heat. I highly recommend a liberal amount of no-clean flux on and around the pads prior to the install.

I de-soldered the lead-free solder and the applied leaded solder to the pads and tab holes prior to placing the connector. Once the solder was wet I was able to align everything and then hold down with tweezers until solid.

Not trying to offer a tutorial. No video will be made. You either know how to solder or you don’t, this is not a simply repair. Just passing along a success story in repairing the micro-hdmi connector on the gimbal. I’ve yet to find anyone that has documented a repair with this size of HDMI connector. $10 in material and good as new.

If you’re interested in learning electronic repair I recommend watching IpadRehab on YouTube. Jessa is a great teacher and she offers lots of tips that will shorten the learning curve. I learned to apply more flux than I had been previously, it’s magic to the effort.

Amphenol 10118242-001RLF - 10118242-001RLF Amphenol FCI | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

WURTH Micro HDMI Connector - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/685119248123/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtAYTMy7wxAr%2bWZla9XpLt87uO1JlG/8m2r%2bm2SnaHy/A==


SOLO-GIMBAL_MICRO-HDMI_CONNECTORS.jpg

SOLO-GIMBAL_MICRO-HDMI_SOLDER-PAD.jpg
 
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Thanks for the detailed write up. That micro stuff is a pita, especially in such close proximity to other parts.
 
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Did you consider trying to use a micro hdmi breakout board and just soldering the wires to the pads? It wouldn't be as clean, but potentially a lot easier. You could also use longer wires too and give the hdmi ribbon more slack around the gimbal and using many smaller wires would probably give a lot more slack to the connection going to the actual gimbal. Dunno how feasible it is...just thinking out loud.
 
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Thanks for the detailed write up. That micro stuff is a pita, especially in such close proximity to other parts.
My kids made fun of me with my magnifying hood on. Would like a microscope sometime in the future...

FWIW, the circuit board is a first class build. It handled the effort without any warping or delaminating, I had attempted 10 different times.
 
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Did you consider trying to use a micro hdmi breakout board and just soldering the wires to the pads?
The terminal pads have very little separation. So the risk for bridging is high as would unsoldering an adjacent wire as you moved down the line. Just not an ideal size for that type of effort...could be done however.
 
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just thinking of trying to strengthen the female connector to the board when my new gimbal comes, any suggestions as to what to use, is there some form of adhesive that can be used on pcb which would help to reduce any impact damage, honestly cant believe it snapped off like it did, it really was the most minor collision possible. Am thinking of cutting my losses and getting a Dji Mavic as that at least has a collision avoidance system
 
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I was able to replace a Gimbal’s micro-hdmi connector on the circuit board. @Solo Keith was kind enough to send me his failed gimbal, he’d ripped the connector off while installing the hdmi cable. This failure was a clean break from the board. No solder pads were damaged. I guess this is the benefit to lead-free solder, not a strong bond to the circuit board.

I had tried several times with a Molex connector and was constantly having the terminals bridge when adjusting into position on the pads while the solder was wet. I ended up using a WURTH 685119248123 Micro-HDMI from Mouser. This version of the connector has the pins supported, which kept the pins separated while aligning the connector in the wet solder to the pads. It appears similar to the factory connector in that its connector supported the pins as well.

As seen in the photo the Wurth has two locator/pivot pins, I had to file those off to allow the connector to sit flush to the board. Otherwise the hidden set of terminal pins were high off the pads and would not contact the pads enough to wick the solder. I’m sure there is exact connector available, but you use what is available…

Anyway, the micro-hdmi connector has a blind row of terminals. A Hot-Air Solder station is really the only method to solder on the replacement. Also all work was done with the circuit board on the gimbal. I had removed the beauty plate with the dampers and then moved it away from the circuit board. I used a thermal barrier to place in between the BP and the circuit board. Controlling the hot air away from the gimbal’s hub kept all other components relatively free of most of the heat. I highly recommend a liberal amount of no-clean flux on and around the pads prior to the install.

I de-soldered the lead-free solder and the applied leaded solder to the pads and tab holes prior to placing the connector. Once the solder was wet I was able to align everything and then hold down with tweezers until solid.

Not trying to offer a tutorial. No video will be made. You either know how to solder or you don’t, this is not a simply repair. Just passing along a success story in repairing the micro-hdmi connector on the gimbal. I’ve yet to find anyone that has documented a repair with this size of HDMI connector. $10 in material and good as new.

If you’re interested in learning electronic repair I recommend watching IpadRehab on YouTube. Jessa is a great teacher and she offers lots of tips that will shorten the learning curve. I learned to apply more flux than I had been previously, it’s magic to the effort.


WURTH Micro HDMI Connector - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/685119248123/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtAYTMy7wxAr%2bWZla9XpLt87uO1JlG/8m2r%2bm2SnaHy/A==

View attachment 3064

View attachment 3065
Gotta love iPad Rehab! Doctor Jones is the bomb! Great work BTW on your HDMI repair!
 

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Envy.....your work station setup, all the tools for the task. I'm just a hack at soldering, but persistent.....helps that the circuit board was forgiving through my trials. Flew with that particular gimbal for a year without issues.

So are you going to offer up a repair service for these gimbals? You'd be the bomb if you did....;)
 
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Hmmm.... I also have quite the rework setup. I didn't think there were that many port failures. Do you really think there are enough to justify a repair service?
 
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Hmmm.... I also have quite the rework setup. I didn't think there were that many port failures. Do you really think there are enough to justify a repair service?
I would be surprised if there was enough for a "service", maybe we just call it "repair help"... thoughts?
 
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Envy.....your work station setup, all the tools for the task. I'm just a hack at soldering, but persistent.....helps that the circuit board was forgiving through my trials. Flew with that particular gimbal for a year without issues.

So are you going to offer up a repair service for these gimbals? You'd be the bomb if you did....;)
I second Dennis starting up a gimbal repair service!
 
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Hmmm.... I also have quite the rework setup. I didn't think there were that many port failures. Do you really think there are enough to justify a repair service?
Heck to the yes. I presume it is the major point of failure when the video feed gets corrupted. Then you have the hdmi at the iMX6 board. Either is the source and is repairable. I know many have said it was the hdmi cable, but evidence is lacking to confirm 100%.

With gimbals in short supply or at a given price point, it makes sense. When gimbals were $50, it did not. Kind of why I reached out to the community, either repair yourself, send to others for repair or send them to me...just don't want to waste a perfectly good repairable gimbal to a trash can.

If anyone needs it done, and is willing to ship, I would do it for $10+part cost (I think ~$2)+return shipping
Sorry man, it ain't that easy. You have to verify each repair once done, it's at least an hour's work to clean, solder and test install. Minimum of $50...for quality work. Which, in my opinion, is still a bargain...

eta: don't quit your day job....Like Dennis said, "repair help".
 
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Heck to the yes. I presume it is the major point of failure when the video feed gets corrupted. Then you have the hdmi at the iMX6 board. Either is the source and is repairable. I know many have said it was the hdmi cable, but evidence is lacking to confirm 100%.

With gimbals in short supply or at a given price point, it makes sense. When gimbals were $50, it did not. Kind of why I reached out to the community, either repair yourself, send to others for repair or send them to me...just don't want to waste a perfectly good repairable gimbal to a trash can.


Sorry man, it ain't that easy. You have to verify each repair once done, it's at least an hour's work to clean, solder and test install. Minimum of $50...for quality work. Which, in my opinion, is still a bargain...
It really isn't that hard. I work with the connectors inside tablets on a regular basis. Can swap one of the 15-pin micro-USB connectors in under ten minutes. And those have finer pitch than the micro-HDMI

Verify and test is install and fly, which I'm probably not going to charge someone for. But okay, I'm not trying to undercut anyone. Will delete post.
 
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But okay, I'm not trying to undercut anyone.
Didn't infer that you were under cutting, just saying it's more involved than simply replacing. I have a little bit of free time, but that time has a value regardless and people would tend to abuse your offering as is. Imagine JimBob surplus sent you ten gimbals to repair, not what you intended in offering "repair help".
 
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If someone abused the offer, let's just say they might find their gimbal required.... extennnnnnded testing....

;)
 
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Sometimes all it takes is just a re-flow in a re-flow over like this:
29752855211_9b4d96ec5e_z.jpg 30154328510_16e8ea4f5f_z.jpg

I put this project on hold due to other obligations, but if your really into this stuff, check out these micro flight controllers I still need to build and test. I am a full on n3rd when I'm motivated. :confused::confused::confused:
29752858281_a387d87ccf_z.jpg 30154328230_a25eba90d3_z.jpg reflow.PNG
 
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I am a full on n3rd when I'm motivated.
Now you are just bragging...;) Air powered dispenser and microscope are on my wish list.

From what I gather, the gimbal dis-assembly is destructive. Why I did the replacement as assembled. But based on your setup, you likely know a way around that....

I hope both or either of y'all offer a "help repair" service. It will buy the community time until other gimbals are available. I'm good on gimbals and my ability to repair what is broken, but others "less fortunate" surely need assistance. #iflysolo
 
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