Solo Performance Settings For Optimal Gimbal Stabilization

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Hi,

I have a Solo with the Gimbal and a GoPro Hero 4 Black. When I go into the "Performance" settings for the Solo with the app, it doesn't seem to matter what speed setting I use for "Flight" or "Camera Pan" because there's a message at the bottom that says "These settings will not be optimal for gimbal stabilization". Does anyone know what's up with this?

Thanks!
 
set them both to half and the message will go away
though I dont find that to be true, I get better video when flying slow
 
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No, but I have learned to leave it on the turtle and I like my results.

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No, but I have learned to leave it on the turtle and I like my results.

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Very nice. The slow moves give it a more professional feel. What settings are you using here on the GoPro? I love the saturation and the way the auto-everything doesn't keep cutting in and changing exposures as you move.
 
GoPro 4 Black with a Polar Pro 4 stop ND filter


I'm shooting at ISO 200 and have selected to shoot in pro tunes. Spot metering is off.

Then when I get it back to my edit suite, I let GoPro studio convert the file, while at the same time removing the fisheye. Lastly, once again using GoPro studio in the edit step, I apply ProTunes default setting. I sometimes change the exposure a little if things appear a little dark.

Does this help? If not ask me again.

Cheers
 
GoPro 4 Black with a Polar Pro 4 stop ND filter


I'm shooting at ISO 200 and have selected to shoot in pro tunes. Spot metering is off.

Then when I get it back to my edit suite, I let GoPro studio convert the file, while at the same time removing the fisheye. Lastly, once again using GoPro studio in the edit step, I apply ProTunes default setting. I sometimes change the exposure a little if things appear a little dark.

Does this help? If not ask me again.

Cheers

I looked every where for a Polar Pro ND 4 for GoPro and all I see on their site is ND for DJI phantom 4. Did you order from the website or Amazon?
 
When I select 4 K, I see 200. I'll check to make sure I'm not wrong, but in 4K and protune on, I believe I get 200.

As to the 4nd filter, I was one of Polar Pro's first customers in 2013, and then3 pack included this filter. I bought 2 of the kits, so I still have them hanging around. I just ordered a new 3 pack, and will be disappointed if the 4 is no longer included.

If it's not, I'd use the 3 ND.

If I screwed up on the iSO 200, I'm sorry, but I try to shoot at the lowest ISO setting
 
You need to have protune on
it should be there
Well mine must be different. Protune on and 400 iso is a low as it goes in video

From GoPro site:

ISO Limit
Adjusts the camera's sensitivity in low-light environments, and creates a balance between brightness and resulting image noise. Image noise refers to the degree of graininess in the image.

Protune for Video ISO Limit
Setting
Resulting Video Quality
6400 Brighter video in low light, highest image noise
3200 Brighter video in low light, increased image noise
1600 (Default) Moderately bright video in low light, moderate image noise
800 Darker video in low light, marginal image noise
400 Darker video in low light, minimum image noise
 
AHHHH that could be it.
Honestly other than resolution and frame rate I never change settings in mine.
That was part of the reason I could sit back and smile during all of the no settings drama.
I havent touched my ISO for months, seemed like I saw a ISO 100 somewhere, you just found it.

I have been flying a Yuneek 4K with Raw and all the settings in the camera.;
Meh
The quality coming out of gopro at the right settings is much better
 
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GoPro 4 Black with a Polar Pro 4 stop ND filter


I'm shooting at ISO 200 and have selected to shoot in pro tunes. Spot metering is off.

Then when I get it back to my edit suite, I let GoPro studio convert the file, while at the same time removing the fisheye. Lastly, once again using GoPro studio in the edit step, I apply ProTunes default setting. I sometimes change the exposure a little if things appear a little dark.

Does this help? If not ask me again.

Cheers
Thanks for sharing that. What does the filter do for your image? I'd imagine a filter like that would force the camera to work at higher ISOs for a given ambient brightness, and/or slower shutter speeds. Is that about right and what does it contribute to your overall fab 'look'?

I found GoPro Studio on my Mac quite unusable, so abandoned it and use iMovie instead. By the sound of it, I'm may be missing out on the ability of the GoPro Studio software to correct fisheye etc.

Cheers!
 
Just came back from shoot.

I apologize, while shooting video it allows "no higher than ISO 400", while taking pictures start at "not more than 100". Sorry to mislead anyone.
 
Thanks for sharing that. What does the filter do for your image? I'd imagine a filter like that would force the camera to work at higher ISOs for a given ambient brightness, and/or slower shutter speeds. Is that about right and what does it contribute to your overall fab 'look'?

The filter slows down the shutter speed to something closer to 30fps with a higher f stop, which is more realistic and film like. Without one, which I did today, I find the video less pretty. Also, it removes all evidence of prop shadow and you are less likely to experience glare or blown out highlights.

Photographers that are new think everything can be done in post. I have to tell tell you, filters are an important part of video production, and professional still image department. At a minimum, but the Polar Pro 3 pack for your GoPro. For your still camera (where you still shoot video) work, a variable ND filter is a must and a circular polarizer. You will be amazed at how much more control you have over your final pictures and video.



{QUOTE=]
I found GoPro Studio on my Mac quite unusable, so abandoned it and use iMovie instead. By the sound of it, I'm may be missing out on the ability of the GoPro Studio software to correct fisheye etc.

Cheers![/QUOTE]

I encourage you to give it another try. If you shoot in protunes, you are recording in a codec by the company Cineform. That is not a format you want to use in editing, or finishing. You need something to convert it. Now most macs will have the Cineform codec installed, but unless you pass it through GoPro studio twice, once to convert it from the Cineform codec, which also includes the step of removing the fisheye. Then, using the edit and export tab, you can select several presets, one called Protune that you can select and then tweak using the other controls. I've done it a lot on a Mac. There is no problem.

Hope this helps!

Happy and steady flying to all!
 
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In bright light an ND filter slows the shutter speed allowing one to get closer to the "180 degree shutter rule" which produces a more natural motion blur. The f- stop of these lens is also not adjustable.

Since the shutter can't be controlled directly on the GoPro the only options are ISO and ND filters to slow the shutter. With the lowest ISO at 400 one is probably not near 180 in most daylight scenes. Some suggest that in bright light a ND8 gets close; during the "Golden hours" a ND 4 may be enough.

Some don't care and just shoot. But in general use at least a ND4 unless shooting at twilight or later to get a more realistic motion blur. My ND 8 gets the most use.

Here for more: The 180 Degree Shutter Rule - The Camera Forum®
 
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