Question about replacing Motor Pod Bearings with Sealed Bearings

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I asked this question in another thread and did not get an answer so I thought I'd try here in a new thread.

I recently bought sealed Boca bearings and was wondering whether or not a light lubricant should be used around the top of the motor shaft where the washer and circ-clip sit. If they require lube, how often should it be applied? Every 5, 10, 20, 40 hours of flight time, or when resistance becomes evident when turning the shafts by hand?

The reason I ask is that I replaced my #2 motorpod with a new one a few weeks ago and now I'm seeing the other 3 motors showing signs of wear and tear (resistance). At a price of $129 per motor pod in Australia, it would be far more economical to replace, service and maintain the motor components myself instead of buying completely new motorpods.

So, "to lube or not to lube, that is the question".
 
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I don't see the benefit of lubing a sealed bearing. Oil is just going to provide a surface for the inevitable dust and dirt to stick to.
 
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I don't see the benefit of lubing a sealed bearing. Oil is just going to provide a surface for the inevitable dust and dirt to stick to.

My query is about lubing the washer and circ-clip that secures the sealed bearings, not the actual sealed bearings. I'm just wondering if lubing the washer and circ-clip prolongs the life of these parts? Or, am I just blowing hot air?
 
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Hot air....;) The balls themselves need the lubrication, if not then the bearings will fail. Oiling the pressure washer and cir-clip only is not lubricating the moving parts. Those parts should be in contact with the lower bearing inner race and spinning with that race.

I'm curious to know what if any lubricant is applied to bearings from Boca. It is my understanding they are basically shipped free of lubricant, other than a light protective film to prevent corrosion. Do you know for a fact they are lubricated for the intended purpose? Is it a grease or oil? How does Boca know you be running the bearing at 9000rpm???

You guys are just following someone's advice blindly. Is Boca a manufacture or a distributor, I bet you don't know. Do you feel if you pay more that you are getting a better product?

Edit to add: Here's a source for bearings....Made just for Solo...
 
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Hot air....;) The balls themselves need the lubrication, if not then the bearings will fail. Oiling the pressure washer and cir-clip only is not lubricating the moving parts. Those parts should be in contact with the lower bearing inner race and spinning with that race.

I'm curious to know what if any lubricant is applied to bearings from Boca. It is my understanding they are basically shipped free of lubricant, other than a light protective film to prevent corrosion. Do you know for a fact they are lubricated for the intended purpose? Is it a grease or oil? How does Boca know you be running the bearing at 9000rpm???

You guys are just following someone's advice blindly. Is Boca a manufacture or a distributor, I bet you don't know. Do you feel if you pay more that you are getting a better product?

Edit to add: Here's a source for bearings....Made just for Solo...


From what I have read David Weston has or is replacing his bearings with the sealed bocas.
I'm just waiting to hear his opinion on how they performed.

In relation to you other questions, the boca bearings when shipped are not lubricated. As for remaining questions, I have NFI. But thanks for your link. It's very interesting and informative and I would certainly purchase the product you're putting together when it becomes available.

Cheers
 
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In relation to you other questions, the boca bearings when shipped are not lubricated. As for remaining questions, I have NFI. But thanks for your link. It's very interesting and informative and I would certainly purchase the product you're putting together when it becomes available.
You did read into the satire for the Hydra bearings??? But then again it proves my point.

Back to your OP, I believe the factory bearings lacked proper lube. New out of the box motors should be lubed. As far as how often, I have NFI but seems reasonable to be consider every 10 hours of flight.

Good luck!

Edit to add: My apology for coming across as a smart arse. It blows my mind that people are willing to spend 5X for a un-known sourced bearing other than a well known distributor name. Service is what you're paying for at 5X the cost, but we are talking bearings which shouldn't be a service issue ever. I spent $10 and you spent $40+, we both have the same bearings....from China.
 
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A smart arse! Not at all. I don't take things personally. Your opinion is respected.
BTW I did read into your satire. The last comment in my last post was too.
 
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Back to your OP, I believe the factory bearings lacked proper lube. New out of the box motors should be lubed. As far as how often, I have NFI but seems reasonable to be consider every 10 hours of flight.

.

Rich from this comment it seems you are suggesting that the factory bearings are not sealed and can be lubricated. It that correct and do you remove your motor pods every ten hours to get to the lower bearings?

Thanks,
Greg
 
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Greg - I did replace one set of bearings. But yes the factory bearing are shielded caged but not rubber sealed bearings. The lower bearing can be accessed through the little opening on the ESC. Having a syringe type oiler makes the task less messy.

The compromise to sealed bearings is the friction the seal makes. I'm unsure to what extent it effects motor performance, but it is a factor to consider. If I were driving an RC car I'd have sealed bearings...

The imbalance I had in the bells was beyond anything a new bearing could resolve. I elected to swap motors to the 800kV T-Motors. Night and day difference....over the stock motors.

Edit to add: I think the top bearing should get more attention as it is adjacent to the stator and windings, where the heat is generated. The lower bearing has less exposure to the motor heat and contamination. Rather than dumping oil in, I wipe the top bearing's exposed cage with a cotton swab to remove any dirt. Then I apply a drop or two of oil on the bearing shield cage. I tilt the bird on it's side and spin the motors by hand to distribute the oil. fwiw, I use the term oil, but prefer a lubricant that leaves a relative dry film. Less for dirt to stick to.... The sense of touch is actually a good tool for "feeling" that the bearings need servicing, ymmv.

Edit to add-add: fwiw, I use Slip from Avid RC, which has teflon. It ends up being a relatively dry film once the carrier has evaporated. I've been using it for over a year now and have had no issues with dust/dirt accumulating. Applied ever 20 or so hours of flight time, I have lubed these motors on three occasions.

I'm not sure why I had referred to cage, it is shields. Which are not seals.
 
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Thanks for the reply Rich, Trying to decide whether to switch the motors out now with less than 10 hours on them or just get it over and put the T- motors on. I have the T-Motors and extra pods sitting waiting for me to get the nerve up to do the soldering.

Had larger Ts on my previous build and really liked them.
 
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Just upgraded a set for Keith, I think it took 4 hours in total. Not going to lie, it's a process that is tedious for detail and a steady hand. Worst part was clearing the lead-free solder off the pads. All other aspects is routine work, as the board and solder mask are top quality. Measure twice and cut once....

Personally I'd suggest to others to replace the bearings first, whatever flavor. But dump the brass thrust washer and go with the nylon version that T-Motors offers. The stock motors aren't bad overall, just the pre-loading of the bearings has room for improvement, which will improve with the nylon washer. Just my opinion...

If you're interested in bearings, have a read here - Motor - Balance Data
 
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Not going to lie, it's a process that is tedious for
detail and a steady hand. The detail doesn't worry me, it's the steady hands that are a problem.

But dump the brass thrust washer and go with the nylon version that T-Motors offers.
What diameter thrust washer washer and clip?
 
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Tips are typically too large on regular size. I have a specialty pair that does well, but I'd think there's a better/faster method for the install...trick of the trade type.
Rich, are you able to tell us the brand and size of these circlip pliers you have Sir? Also where to get them if you know?

I am having a heck of a time finding a pair and removing the circlips with two small screw drivers is doable but extremely difficult.
 
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Here's the pliers that I bought, McMaster-Carr.

The stock Sunny-T motor clip (Double Loop design) seem fairly fragile. Using the above priers I mangled pretty much every clip I've removed. Further it doesn't help with installation either, as I have never been able to install the DL clip back on the shaft without having to press it back together to retain, many times they break in half from bending. There must be a trick to installing these, but I lost patience trying to figure a method...probably a simple concept though.

I would recommend a standard cir-clip shape over the T-Motor suggested in a post above. This is the version that I purchased and seems to install well from the side of the shaft when using the nylon pressure washer. This is the tool that I use to install the cir-clip... McMaster-Carr

If you do go with a standard cir-clip, make sure you have proper clearance in the plastic pod frame hole, at the shaft. A reamer will open it up further if needed and not compromise the structural integrity. This has to been done when you upgrade motors to the T-Motors MT's as discussed here on the forum.

Good luck!
 
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Here's the pliers that I bought, McMaster-Carr.

The stock Sunny-T motor clip (Double Loop design) seem fairly fragile. Using the above priers I mangled pretty much every clip I've removed. Further it doesn't help with installation either, as I have never been able to install the DL clip back on the shaft without having to press it back together to retain, many times they break in half from bending. There must be a trick to installing these, but I lost patience trying to figure a method...probably a simple concept though.

I would recommend a standard cir-clip shape over the T-Motor suggested in a post above. This is the version that I purchased and seems to install well from the side of the shaft when using the nylon pressure washer. This is the tool that I use to install the cir-clip... McMaster-Carr

If you do go with a standard cir-clip, make sure you have proper clearance in the plastic pod frame hole, at the shaft. A reamer will open it up further if needed and not compromise the structural integrity. This has to been done when you upgrade motors to the T-Motors MT's as discussed here on the forum.

Good luck!
Thanks buddy!

I appreciate your help!
 

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