Motors Efficiency : Solo OEM vs T-Motor vs KDE

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Hi Gang,

Finally I got the T-Motor prop adapter done. Took more time than expected due to 0.2mm machining error...LOL.

I also learn more how to use the RC Benchmark dynometer better :)

Anyway, here is the lastest result.
Hope its useful for those who wants to do motor change.

As for me, I will not use the KDE motor.
I will use the T-Motor instead for my Solo.

Propeller deformation info :
The world seen from a propeller hub – for the first time DLR researchers make the deformation of a propeller blade during flight visible



Trio Summary 1.PNG Trio Summary 2.PNG Trio Summary 3.PNG Trio-Weight of each motors ready to fly.PNG


What I do not know yet with certainty, is :
If a propeller hub is way above the motor cooling vents opening like in KDE and T-Motor , will it improve motor cooling compared to the low profile Solo OEM motor hub ?
My logic tells me yes,.... :), but I dont know how to verify it.
.
Trio Summary 4 - Hub height.PNG

If a motor manufacturer is willing to machine a sort of wing shape for its top part to produce forced air flow, maybe better cooling to motor winding can be achieved, like some racing cars sports rims/wheel to cool the brakes.

End of test....
 
Thanks for sharing, excellent work!
Question, why are you doing the test at 16V?
Realistically you will have between 14-14.5 volts in Solo under load. I could imagine that this will impact results.
 
Thanks for sharing, excellent work!
Question, why are you doing the test at 16V?
Realistically you will have between 14-14.5 volts in Solo under load. I could imagine that this will impact results.

Agree Steve, my initial test was at 14.8V. But it all comes down to propeller RPM, that is a fix value which you can use as power producer which will consume the same amount of watts at "X or Y" RPM.

Electrically, there is no notable efficiency difference between 14.8V to 16V input, but if you want more RPM pass 9,000 ish, use 16V.
However I do think there is a bit of propeller deformation at 9,500 RPM and more at higher RPM.
For racing quads I am sure they want top speed and thus voltage matters.

For our Solo if movie making is the target, thrust value which will hoover the Solo and push it forward at decent speed is all we need most of the time, unless you want to do a car chase as fast as Solo can do without loosing altitude, perhaps a motor with ability to do fast RPM at lowest possible voltage is a better choice.

I can not yet test Solo own ESC throttle value to equal what RPM, unless I do test like Roland with Solo original ESC ( motor pod ) on a thrust stand. I am not as good as him for DIY ... :)

.
 
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Steve,

When I have time I will do 14.8V vs 16V for the 3 motors again yah :)
.
 
Steve,

I think next test will be best at 15.5V as middle average.

Probably good to use 15.5 volt as base line voltage for test.PNG
 
If a propeller hub is way above the motor cooling vents opening like in KDE and T-Motor , will it improve motor cooling compared to the low profile Solo OEM motor hub ?
My logic tells me yes,.... :), but I dont know how to verify it.
I've wondered if the motor bell top can contribute air flow by how it is designed. The T-motors have a defined vane that appears to work in only one direction with regard to air flow. Which would seem counter intuitive for creating air flow in the reverse direction. Both the KDE and Sunny-T motors have no vane orientation, so one can assume no benefit for drawing in air for their designs. I've yet to sense if either orientation of my T-Motor is hotter than the other after a flight.

I've come to a conclusion that it really doesn't matter. I presume the normal operation creates a vacuum pressure underneath drawing air through the motors and pod vents and then out the gimbal plate and/or the "link" puck on the belly of the body. Just an opinion, no science to back up my thoughts.

I'd love to see a modern MR prop evaluated in the following way....bored with computer modeling... @pyrate you may find the video interesting when they show testing of two props...counter rotating over one another.

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that was cool
sometimes I think drop the coaxial, but they are steady as heck in the air when you get them right
 

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