How is your distance with the Sunhan WiFi Amp?

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To all Amplifier users with the FPVLR antenna!!! This is the answer I have been looking for!!!
As Per Tony of FPVLR and I quote from another thread;


"Hi, for the Taranis you MUST use an attenuator because output power is 500mw and sunhans max input is about 120mw. You'd burn the amps, no question about it!

For 3dr solo controller there is NO need for an attenuator!"
@Rex Barlow
Please read the above. Tony of FPVLR confirmed that you do not need an attenuator. Your set-up is fine.
 
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To all Amplifier users with the FPVLR antenna!!! This is the answer I have been looking for!!!
As Per Tony of FPVLR and I quote from another thread;


"Hi, for the Taranis you MUST use an attenuator because output power is 500mw and sunhans max input is about 120mw. You'd burn the amps, no question about it!

For 3dr solo controller there is NO need for an attenuator!"
I tried to find how mw that controller's tx use Radiolabs - Wifi Range Calculator
 
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if I add attenuator, will improve video streaming and further?
@Rex Barlow No it will not get better read what Tony has to say below. The SOLO controller output is 100 mw.

FPVLR said:
All FPVLR antennas have an extremely good 50 Ohm impedance , for very good I mean at center frequency the SWR is < 1.1:1 , so it's world class, or you can say top notch. That's why FPVLR is N.1 when it comes to range extension kits for drones of all kinds, and why it's used by law enforcement and military in some countries.

with only 100mw output the sunhans amps do not need any attenuation , you can direct connect the sunhans amps to the 3dr controller's output.
 
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I'm not sure if it's been pointed out, but an attenuator REDUCES signal output. Attenuators are sometimes needed prior to amplification in order to reduce the signal going to the amplifier input, i.e. if your input is too strong, it might fry the amp and you would need an attenuator.

As stated earlier in this thread, an attenuator is NOT necessary with the suggested setup. If you were looking at an amplifier that could not handle the 100 mw output of the Solo controller, or if you were using another controller that had a higher output than the Solo controller, then you would need one.
 
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To all Amplifier users with the FPVLR antenna!!! This is the answer I have been looking for!!!
As Per Tony of FPVLR and I quote from another thread;


"Hi, for the Taranis you MUST use an attenuator because output power is 500mw and sunhans max input is about 120mw. You'd burn the amps, no question about it!

For 3dr solo controller there is NO need for an attenuator!"
That sounds very definitive. Thanks for sharing.
Sounds like I would NOT need attenuators with the 3DR Controller into the Sunhans amplifiers.

Aside from that, do you use a Taranis controller with your Solo, or the stock 3DR controller?
 
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Of course I am not using or would even consider using the Taranis. That would be like stepping back 10 years if I did that.
 
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Are Sunhans amps actually FCC certified? I can't find any actual documentation regarding certification besides the FCC logo on the actual amp.
 
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If it emits appreciable RF and is sold in the USA it must be type accepted.

To clarify a few things posted earlier: apparently these amps have gain between 14 and 17 dB on transmit. To emit the full 34 dBm they must, thus, be driven with 17 to 20 dBm (50 - 100 mW). They can handle up to 20 dB in and, as apparently, the WiFI card in the controller delivers 100 mW you don't need to put an attenuator between the controller and the amp nor should you as if you put a 6 dB pad your transmit power would drop to 28 dbm (0.63 W from your 2.5 W amp cutting your range in half) and, as these amps contain a preamp (12 dB gain) for the reverse path you will lose 6 dB on the receive path as well (reducing effective receive path range to half).

There is another side to the use of pads and that is improvement of matching. If the amp were a lousy match to the WiFi card, say so bad that the voltage reflection coefficient at the amp was 81.9%, then the VSWR presented to the WiFi card would be 10:1. Put a 6 db attenuator in the path and the reflection is cut in half and the VSWR becomes 2.4.
 
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@Jun Mangahas
Do you have any ideas where I could source "extension" cables for my antennas. I'd like to get a set for mounting antennas on the top of a car. I'd also like to get a shorter set to allow me to put the controller in a back pack, but mount antennas on the outside. (Why? For improved Follow Me shots)
 
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http://www.newark.com/amphenol-rf/1...p/dp/14R7754?MER=PPSO_N_P_EverywhereElse_None
or something more or less like that (e.g. different cable length). As you are most likely to find cables with male connectors (they have a 'pin') you will need a couple of what we call in the trade 'bullets'
http://www.newark.com/amphenol-rf/1...a/dp/92H4681?MER=PPSO_N_C_EverywhereElse_None

Keep in mind that there will be some loss (a little over a dB for a 4 foot length) which will reduce the 120 mW output of the card to just the 100 mW drive that the amp apparently likes. Thus the cable is a 1.1 dB pad (attenuator).
 
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http://www.newark.com/amphenol-rf/1...p/dp/14R7754?MER=PPSO_N_P_EverywhereElse_None
or something more or less like that (e.g. different cable length). As you are most likely to find cables with male connectors (they have a 'pin') you will need a couple of what we call in the trade 'bullets'
http://www.newark.com/amphenol-rf/1...a/dp/92H4681?MER=PPSO_N_C_EverywhereElse_None

Keep in mind that there will be some loss (a little over a dB for a 4 foot length) which will reduce the 120 mW output of the card to just the 100 mW drive that the amp apparently likes. Thus the cable is a 1.1 dB pad (attenuator).
Thank you. For the car set up, I'll add amps. For the backpack I'll use short cables and mount antennas between shoulders.
 
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Just happened to sit down at the table with my FPVLR antenna on it and noticed that the SMA connectors are female with respect to the threads (internally threaded nut) AND the center conductor (no pin). This means the controller is male WRT the threads and the center conductor (pin). This is not what I linked to above which is the standard SMA (female WRT threads, male WRT pin). This is apparently standard for WiFi (I'd never noticed it) and is referred to as RP-SMA (Reverse Polarity SMA). Newark does not, that I can find, sell these but try RP-SMA Extension Cable: 24-inch Male to Female (bulkhead): Double-Shielded Low-Loss. Note these cables have a male at one end and female at the other so you won't need the bullets.

Sorry about the wild goose chase.
 
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Just happened to sit down at the table with my FPVLR antenna on it and noticed that the SMA connectors are female with respect to the threads (internally threaded nut) AND the center conductor (no pin). This means the controller is male WRT the threads and the center conductor (pin). This is not what I linked to above which is the standard SMA (female WRT threads, male WRT pin). This is apparently standard for WiFi (I'd never noticed it) and is referred to as RP-SMA (Reverse Polarity SMA). Newark does not, that I can find, sell these but try RP-SMA Extension Cable: 24-inch Male to Female (bulkhead): Double-Shielded Low-Loss. Note these cables have a male at one end and female at the other so you won't need the bullets.

Sorry about the wild goose chase.
Your awesome. Luckily I didn't order yet. Went out and did some follow me tests instead. I'll dive into this tonight.
 
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Just happened to sit down at the table with my FPVLR antenna on it and noticed that the SMA connectors are female with respect to the threads (internally threaded nut) AND the center conductor (no pin). This means the controller is male WRT the threads and the center conductor (pin). This is not what I linked to above which is the standard SMA (female WRT threads, male WRT pin). This is apparently standard for WiFi (I'd never noticed it) and is referred to as RP-SMA (Reverse Polarity SMA). Newark does not, that I can find, sell these but try RP-SMA Extension Cable: 24-inch Male to Female (bulkhead): Double-Shielded Low-Loss. Note these cables have a male at one end and female at the other so you won't need the bullets.

Sorry about the wild goose chase.
So what do you think about this cable? LMR400 and I can get it in a 10 foot length.

I'm thinking 10 feet might be needed to route the cables from the passenger seat out through a crack in the window, and up onto the roof of a car or truck. I'm sure I could get by with 6ft, but 10 would give me more options for where I place antennas. I figured I should go with LMR400 vs 200 for such a length.

RP SMA Male to SMA Female LMR-400 Generic Assemblies

Obviously for shorter runs, I'd want more cable flexibility and would need as high of an LMR rating.
 
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You've got to be really careful here. The one you have linked is RP SMA male to SMA female. This one is RP to RP

RP SMA Male to RP SMA Female Bulkhead LMR-400 Generic

and is, I think, what you want.

The reasoning WRT to the longer cables (stiffer, less lossy) seems sound to me.
Thank you again. Im glad i double checked before ordering.

As a side note: in the last sentence of my previous post I meant to say:

for shorter runs, I'd want more cable flexibility and would *NOT* need as high of an LMR rating.


From your reply, it seems you got the jist of what I meant though.
 

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