No. All the LED's are mounted on heat sinks using Arctic Silver thermal compound.

ABS is the most common material used in 3D printing. I've used it before and it holds up well.

The flashing LED's are only on for 50 ms and barely get warm. The steady Nav lights have the current turned down and the prop wash from the blades keep them cool.

I turned the Nav lights on the bench for 10 minutes and they only reached about 130F.
"Cool", thanks for the reply... Again the placement of the led mounts is real genius. Will you be running the wiring internal or external of the body?
 
"Cool", thanks for the reply... Again the placement of the led mounts is real genius. Will you be running the wiring internal or external of the body?
Thanks Rich.
The controller is mounted externally and the wiring is designed to run outside as most people won't want to tear Solo apart to run wires.
Also, I plan to ship them with everything connected so all you need to do to install is:
Insert controller and secure with 2 screws (included).

Install led mount (led/heat sink already attached) to leg. Right now I'm using 3M VHB tape to attach mount to leg because it sticks like iron but can be removed without leaving residue.

That's it!

The wires are custom tailored to Solo so there is very little slack. I'm experimenting with different ways to attach the wires to the Solo body so they don't flop around.

So far, the best thing I have found is to adhere the wires using silicone adhesive available at auto parts stores.

The advantage to this is it peels off easily and leaves no residue. There are many adhesives you can use, but many of them don't come off cleanly if you decide to remove it.

For those that want to run wires internally, I can ship with longer wires but you would need to solder them to the heat sinks. (Not really any good places to run wires back into Solo from the controller without drilling).
 
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This forum is when I found out I love hot glue. Indefinite shelf life between applications. Unlike canned/tubed glues, use once and they go bad sitting on the shelf.

Excited you're working through a solution for nav lights. I have no commercial application, but the solution will help quite a few get on with it....
 
Maddog, your system is looking great! Can't wait to check out the final product. Any estimates on availability?
I've never experimented with lights. Yet. I'm content to leave the colored navigational setups to guys most familiar with them and their proper configuration.
Still, I've got an absolute ton of very small but amazingly bright lights available. My son owns our local bike shop, and I'm always riding the latest thing - including accessories like headlights! I have resisted the urge to tear into them and create an absolutely blinding spotlight until now. But, the urge is growing...
Seems to me I could put together a Frankenstein gadget that puts out at least 5,000 lumens at only a half-pound or maybe less. Or possibly put together the led-reflector-lens assemblies from a few lights into one solid "bar" that would put anything in Close Encounters to shame.
That's the best thing about these newer techs. Things are progressing so fast even a complete novice like me can reasonably hope to cobble something interesting together.
 
This forum is when I found out I love hot glue. Indefinite shelf life between applications. Unlike canned/tubed glues, use once and they go bad sitting on the shelf.

Excited you're working through a solution for nav lights. I have no commercial application, but the solution will help quite a few get on with it....
Rich- don't know why, but I completely forgot about hot glue. That probably would be perfect!
 
Maddog, your system is looking great! Can't wait to check out the final product. Any estimates on availability?
I've never experimented with lights. Yet. I'm content to leave the colored navigational setups to guys most familiar with them and their proper configuration.
Still, I've got an absolute ton of very small but amazingly bright lights available. My son owns our local bike shop, and I'm always riding the latest thing - including accessories like headlights! I have resisted the urge to tear into them and create an absolutely blinding spotlight until now. But, the urge is growing...
Seems to me I could put together a Frankenstein gadget that puts out at least 5,000 lumens at only a half-pound or maybe less. Or possibly put together the led-reflector-lens assemblies from a few lights into one solid "bar" that would put anything in Close Encounters to shame.
That's the best thing about these newer techs. Things are progressing so fast even a complete novice like me can reasonably hope to cobble something interesting together.
I don't know about availability yet. I'm waiting on more parts and unfortunately they all come from China so shipping time is usually long and a crap shoot. They are due now so hopefully they will be here soon.

There are lots of videos on YouTube about making flashlights, etc. using super bright led's.
 
Some parts finally arrived on the slow boats!
Here's some pics of the led's mounted on 3D printed brackets.

Ironing out some engineering details-stay tuned!

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
To hold wire gaffers tape looks like the texture and color of solo, flat servo type wire could be taped down completely under very nicely or just some tabs. It does not leave residue.Sticker shock ensue if you price a full size roll of 3M. Home depot has it for $18 but with tape 3M is always the best.
Duck brand makes a thick clear packing tape that looks so clear you would thing it was an inch of glass.
Little known fact that can paint many tapes and that don't stretch too much and stick on after to match your solo i would spray over red as red don't cover too well,they sell red gaffers here Standard Grade Gaffers Tape (67680)
 
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To hold wire gaffers tape looks like the texture and color of solo, flat servo type wire could be taped down completely under very nicely or just some tabs. It does not leave residue.Sticker shock ensue if you price a full size roll of 3M. Home depot has it for $18 but with tape 3M is always the best.
Duck brand makes a thick clear packing tape that looks so clear you would thing it was an inch of glass.
Little known fact that can paint many tapes and that don't stretch too much and stick on after to match your solo i would spray over red as red don't cover too well,they sell red gaffers here Standard Grade Gaffers Tape (67680)
G & M models specializing RC boats sells radio box tape that I believe is this comes in 1/2", 1" ect.& heavier mil too ,this shizznit is amazing. No residue.
http://www.electro-wind.com/adhesiv...hesive-130-c-clear-1-2-wide-x-72-yd-roll.html
 
I finally something that will stick to silicone wire-silicone adhesive sealant. Comes in black and clear, about $6 at Auto Zone.
image.jpeg
 
I finally something that will stick to silicone wire-silicone adhesive sealant. Comes in black and clear, about $6 at Auto Zone.
View attachment 5024
There's an adhesive out there that sticks really well to just about anything and is compliant. It's very strong and its non conductive.
Called E6000. It's about 3-4 dollars a tube at Walmart. Home Depot sells it under another name called Tilly Tacker at about 8 dollars a tube.
I've used it to hold brushless motors in place and for a lot of other projects.

Don.
 
There's an adhesive out there that sticks really well to just about anything and is compliant. It's very strong and its non conductive.
Called E6000. It's about 3-4 dollars a tube at Walmart. Home Depot sells it under another name called Tilly Tacker at about 8 dollars a tube.
I've used it to hold brushless motors in place and for a lot of other projects.

Don.
I have E6000 and it will not bond to silicone wire.
The silicone adhesive is the only thing I've found so far that will.
 
I've searched everywhere but can't find what I'm looking for.
I would like to put flashing red lights on top and bottom of Solo something like anti-collision lights on aircraft.

I've seen YouTube videos with lights that appear to be a single LED that flashes much like a strobe. Needs to be bright for daytime visibility and visible from just about all angles.

I've found all kinds of LED strips, etc. but nothing that flashes by itself. I've found some single flashing LED's but they weren't very bright.

Not sure how to power it but was thinking about about tapping into the existing LED's somehow.

Any ideas?
I wouldn't worry about another air craft hitting your drone mid air. If you regularly fly near a airport then you already are aware you need to call and tell them your location, fa#, time Of when your going to fly and when you'll stop, how high your flying and what the distance away from you will be, also your nme and phone number. If there are helicopters in the area at that time they will tell you to hold off for now and ground the drone. If they say cool and then during your flight if there is a emergency reason set near you that requires a flight for life helicopter they WILL call you and tell you to land immediately to avoid interfering with other plane or heliecopters. But to attach extra lights above and below your drone I'm questioning your motives.
 
I wouldn't worry about another air craft hitting your drone mid air. If you regularly fly near a airport then you already are aware you need to call and tell them your location, fa#, time Of when your going to fly and when you'll stop, how high your flying and what the distance away from you will be, also your nme and phone number. If there are helicopters in the area at that time they will tell you to hold off for now and ground the drone. If they say cool and then during your flight if there is a emergency reason set near you that requires a flight for life helicopter they WILL call you and tell you to land immediately to avoid interfering with other plane or heliecopters. But to attach extra lights above and below your drone I'm questioning your motives.
Good point- just wanted to cover all potential situations.
 
Good point- just wanted to cover all potential situations.
I didn't mean to assume that your motives were bad at all. But I get your point. It would be easier to see from your vantage point for ortiention and what not. But for me where I live and work I don't want my drone to stick out to much in the air. I want to stay low key as possible lol
 
I didn't mean to assume that your motives were bad at all. But I get your point. It would be easier to see from your vantage point for ortiention and what not. But for me where I live and work I don't want my drone to stick out to much in the air. I want to stay low key as possible lol
I totally understand. This has a 3 position switch, off, strobes only, all.

Many folks on this forum have been looking for some kind of lights to help determine Solo's orientation and have purchased the Polar Pro lights for that purpose.

Most lights currently on the market just aren't bright enough for daytime use but this system is.

Operations under part 107 require an anti- collision light system when operating during civil twilight (30 mins prior to sunrise, 30 mins after sunset) and at night. You can now get permission to fly at night but I'm not familiar with the process yet.

Law enforcement/SAR operations are getting permission to operate at night.

Will be posting a test/demo video in a couple of days.
 
Demo video delayed as my video camera finally bit the dust.:(
Looking for another.
Your setup looks great. I read your posts several times, and was wondering if the power supply for the lights is in the LED controller, and where does the power come from? Also, do you have a rough estimate on cost for your setup. It is the cleanest I have seen. A very nice job!
 
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Your setup looks great. I read your posts several times, and was wondering if the power supply for the lights is in the LED controller, and where does the power come from? Also, do you have a rough estimate on cost for your setup. It is the cleanest I have seen. A very nice job!
Thanks, Chuck. Power comes from a power/data port on the bottom of Solo. Its covered by a rubber plug.

About 500 hours in testing, design changes, assembly so far. There are 6 circuit boards inside, so lots of labor putting one together.
I'M estimating around $90 mostly due to parts.

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