Solo Antenna Mods

I forgot to come back and update - after dealing with gimbal issues and motor pod failure!

I swapped out my rear stock antenna on Solo when I swapped the wifi card and I replaced the antenna with an SMA-u.fl pigtail which I ran through the the leg hole that normally passes the stock antenna.

I mounted the SMA connector in the gap between the ridges of Solo's leg, using some adhesive backed foam tape and some zap straps.

Not the most elegant, but I don't like the idea of drilling through Solo's shell. I toyed with a metal pipe clamp but didn't want metal wrapped around the antenna. It's quite solid - I can unscrew and screw on antennas without moving the assembly. I use a strip of Velcro wrap around the joint assembly just to be sure the antenna is tethered to the bird. It also covers up the zap strap ends a little.

Eventually I'll make a 3D printed mount; I think that I can screw into one of the Solo leg screws, with a loner screw of course.

Now I can swap antennas at will. I've actually reused my extra Solo controller antenna on Solo as well when running all linear (since I use the Alfa patch on the controller). The stock controller antenna is actually quite good.

With my testing, I found the mad mushroom to be a better antenna for Solo than the clover when using circular polarized antennas like the Pepperbox.

Ironically, the ImmersionRC RHCP patch must not be as well circularized as it works better in combination with the Solo linear antenna vs the clover or mad mushroom.

View attachment 2021

View attachment 2022

Would also like to hear more about how this mod works. I have a pair of those 2.4ghz commercials antennas sitting on my work bench from my last bird.
 
Would also like to hear more about how this mod works. I have a pair of those 2.4ghz commercials antennas sitting on my work bench from my last bird.
I simply swapped one of the antenna whips from Solo when I was swapping out the wifi card with an SMA antenna connector. You need to disengage the antenna whips from the stock wifi card and move them over to the new wifi card, so this was just an additional step. Because the SMA connector head is bulky, you just need to thread the u.fl connector through the leg hole at the top before reconnecting everything.

The u.fl connectors just clip on and off the wifi card - however you'll find some white electrical silicon dabbed over the connection to stop vibrations from causing disconnects. I use a dab of E6000 on the connector when reassembling. E6000 is relatively nonconductive, is tenacious but is also slightly flexible so won't crack with movement/vibration.

I've attached an image of the new connector I added on to replace the stock antenna. You can find these on Amazon or eBay for a couple dollars. they come in SMA or RP-SMA. I chose SMA as most of my aftermarket antennas are SMA. RP-SMA to SMA adapters are cheap if needed.

I used the retaining nut that is normally used to mount the SMA connector to a port to squeeze down on a small zap strap loop that I fitted around the connector like a collar.

Before tightening this zap strap down completely, I threaded a couple more zap straps through the loop to use these to mount the SMA connector to Solo's leg support arms. A little adhesive foam stuck to the inside groove of the arm provides some friction and cushioning to keep everything from shifting (the edges of the SMA connector bite into the foam).

I used a dab of E6000 on the nuts and zap strap to keep everything tight even with all the vibrations from flight.

It's all very reversible - I didn't want permanent damage to Solo and worse case scenario, I can replace Solo's leg. I've tightened the zap straps enough that the plastic Solo leg edges warp a bit when the connector presses into the leg groove.

$_57.jpg

I only replaced one of the antennas - I made a conscious decision to used either all linear or mixed linear/circular polarized solution. You can experiment and change out both antennas in Solo for connectors if you wish.

Since I can mount whichever antenna combination I want in less than a minute, I use what suits my flying at the time.

With the pepperbox and mad mushroom, I've gotten lots of range and a very wide beam to fly around in (pretty much no aiming - just point the antenna in the general direction) with the cost of moderate portability.

With the Alfa and all linear antennas, I maintain my controller direction when flying further out. I tend to lose connection when I'm am turning the bird and at the limits of signal strength with this combo but with the wifi cards and video/photo objective, I don't ever get to this range unless I'm testing.
 
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Was the DBS panel plug and play? Also, how was it as far as weight? It looks a lot heavier than those from FPVLR.
The DBS mods antenna is super light. Almost feels like it's empty.
 
There are a few threads in this forum on it, including an instructional video. The wifi cards are literally laptop cards that can be inserted into slots. Just take your time unscrewing the shell and don't force anything.

The controller wifi card is easiest to replace and you get great gains with just one card swapped even in highly congested wifi environments. Downtown Vancouver? Yup.

Depending on your setup, you can get more range than is safe or within line of sight and on the limits of what the batteries can reliably provide for a good exploratory flight. So really, do it for connection stability purposes.

There are posts with results documented in the forum. You don't need to change any software settings in Solo to get good results.

The antennas are a great mod too. Easier, perhaps. But the wifi card works with them all, increasing range for all your other antenna mods.
After the latest firmware updates, does the wifi card upgrade still provide any benefit? ie.- is it still worth it? Currently, what's the best place to get them?
Thanks!
 
After the latest firmware updates, does the wifi card upgrade still provide any benefit? ie.- is it still worth it? Currently, what's the best place to get them?
Thanks!
Yes, the cards are still providing a benefit. I didn't upgrade my Solo's card until after the software wifi revisions.

The Mikrotik website has a list of retailers by location so you can look for a local retailer if you can't use the sites online. I bought mine locally in the summer - quite a while ago after finding a local retailer nearby. This was cheapest for me as I didn't have to pay for shipping etc.
 
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but it does not get same range as FPVLR panel, there was an antenna comparison done on youtube. The reason is that the sensitivity of the receivers is set too high to increase range, but they pick up a lot of interference as well, so the range on this bird is much more susceptible to wifi interference. With the opposite polarized antennas, one Left hand, one Right hand, we can separate the RC signal from the Video signal, so the video picks up less of the rc signal noise...

This is why this system works so well on SOLO.
I haven't seen any information that shows the video and control is sent to a different chain on the wifi cards. Where is this information? It would be interesting to see.
 
Yes, the cards are still providing a benefit. I didn't upgrade my Solo's card until after the software wifi revisions.

The Mikrotik website has a list of retailers by location so you can look for a local retailer if you can't use the sites online. I bought mine locally in the summer - quite a while ago after finding a local retailer nearby. This was cheapest for me as I didn't have to pay for shipping etc.
Sounds good- thanks for the update!
 
12303988_10208627309544044_5603185195521291375_o.jpg Untitled.jpg
Is that how it would be setup while you fly? I'd love to see a few shots of this setup with your tablet/phone in place. I'm about to buy the fplvr antenna but hadn't thought about the boosters. Where are they powered from, separate lipo?
12303988_10208627309544044_5603185195521291375_o.jpgmy ipad air 2 is stand by tripol and power by 80 Watt Continuous/160 Watt Peak Power Inverter for now from my truck battery but will get their own battery soon 12DC
 
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I simply swapped one of the antenna whips from Solo when I was swapping out the wifi card with an SMA antenna connector. You need to disengage the antenna whips from the stock wifi card and move them over to the new wifi card, so this was just an additional step. Because the SMA connector head is bulky, you just need to thread the u.fl connector through the leg hole at the top before reconnecting everything.

The u.fl connectors just clip on and off the wifi card - however you'll find some white electrical silicon dabbed over the connection to stop vibrations from causing disconnects. I use a dab of E6000 on the connector when reassembling. E6000 is relatively nonconductive, is tenacious but is also slightly flexible so won't crack with movement/vibration.

I've attached an image of the new connector I added on to replace the stock antenna. You can find these on Amazon or eBay for a couple dollars. they come in SMA or RP-SMA. I chose SMA as most of my aftermarket antennas are SMA. RP-SMA to SMA adapters are cheap if needed.

I used the retaining nut that is normally used to mount the SMA connector to a port to squeeze down on a small zap strap loop that I fitted around the connector like a collar.

Before tightening this zap strap down completely, I threaded a couple more zap straps through the loop to use these to mount the SMA connector to Solo's leg support arms. A little adhesive foam stuck to the inside groove of the arm provides some friction and cushioning to keep everything from shifting (the edges of the SMA connector bite into the foam).

I used a dab of E6000 on the nuts and zap strap to keep everything tight even with all the vibrations from flight.

It's all very reversible - I didn't want permanent damage to Solo and worse case scenario, I can replace Solo's leg. I've tightened the zap straps enough that the plastic Solo leg edges warp a bit when the connector presses into the leg groove.

View attachment 2023

I only replaced one of the antennas - I made a conscious decision to used either all linear or mixed linear/circular polarized solution. You can experiment and change out both antennas in Solo for connectors if you wish.

Since I can mount whichever antenna combination I want in less than a minute, I use what suits my flying at the time.

With the pepperbox and mad mushroom, I've gotten lots of range and a very wide beam to fly around in (pretty much no aiming - just point the antenna in the general direction) with the cost of moderate portability.

With the Alfa and all linear antennas, I maintain my controller direction when flying further out. I tend to lose connection when I'm am turning the bird and at the limits of signal strength with this combo but with the wifi cards and video/photo objective, I don't ever get to this range unless I'm testing.

Where did you find/get the E6000?
 
Has anybody experienced this with the FPVLR ..lost of signal to the Solo then "return home" appears ...but still had 2 bars of signal strength ?
I just got my FPVLR shipped to me this week and having had time to try them out till today! So I hooked them up on the controller..and flew up about 200 feet up..and flew out around 3000 feet over a Gorge with water... There was no obstructions with trees or Wi-Fi interference in the area I was in. So around 3000 feet out .. I still had 2 bars of Signal strength but it lost connection with Solo and returned home...I only usually lose signal to the Solo when your signal bars go down to read !!
And while it was returning home I got connection again with the Solo... But When Solo was coming home about a 1000 feet from me it lost connection again and I couldn't get it back till it was basically over my head?..
It was only my first test flight with the FPVLR ... But sure was a strange one!!
I'm gonna try it again with the FPVLR tomorrow morning in different part of town and see if I get the same result !
Just wondering if anybody els had experience this with the FPVLR?


Hi Del,

I just had an unfortunate flyaway with my P3P, so I decided to give the solo a shot. I have experienced the same issue you mentioned above where I have at least two bars but the solo initiates the RTH feature. Were you ever able to gain some insight on this issue?
 
Hi Del,

I just had an unfortunate flyaway with my P3P, so I decided to give the solo a shot. I have experienced the same issue you mentioned above where I have at least two bars but the solo initiates the RTH feature. Were you ever able to gain some insight on this issue?
I havint had it happen again..so I'm thinking Mabe I was just in a wifi congested area ..


Cheers
 
Hi Del,

I just had an unfortunate flyaway with my P3P, so I decided to give the solo a shot. I have experienced the same issue you mentioned above where I have at least two bars but the solo initiates the RTH feature. Were you ever able to gain some insight on this issue?
If you use Tower, you can tweak the params so that it completes the mission, even after it loses connection with the controller. Just make sure you plan your mission so that the Solo will be back in range at the end of the mission (so you can takeover to land it safely).
 
my Solo never flyaway. I trust my Solo's RTH. I had many time disconnect and lost connect. I knew my drone will always RTH.. no question! sorry about your P3P..

knock on wood...
 
I've only seen one person with the DLSRPros Horizon Range Extender, it looks like a really good antenna. Can anybody tell me about this one?
 
I forgot to come back and update - after dealing with gimbal issues and motor pod failure!

I swapped out my rear stock antenna on Solo when I swapped the wifi card and I replaced the antenna with an SMA-u.fl pigtail which I ran through the the leg hole that normally passes the stock antenna.

I mounted the SMA connector in the gap between the ridges of Solo's leg, using some adhesive backed foam tape and some zap straps.

Not the most elegant, but I don't like the idea of drilling through Solo's shell. I toyed with a metal pipe clamp but didn't want metal wrapped around the antenna. It's quite solid - I can unscrew and screw on antennas without moving the assembly. I use a strip of Velcro wrap around the joint assembly just to be sure the antenna is tethered to the bird. It also covers up the zap strap ends a little.

Eventually I'll make a 3D printed mount; I think that I can screw into one of the Solo leg screws, with a loner screw of course.

Now I can swap antennas at will. I've actually reused my extra Solo controller antenna on Solo as well when running all linear (since I use the Alfa patch on the controller). The stock controller antenna is actually quite good.

With my testing, I found the mad mushroom to be a better antenna for Solo than the clover when using circular polarized antennas like the Pepperbox.

Ironically, the ImmersionRC RHCP patch must not be as well circularized as it works better in combination with the Solo linear antenna vs the clover or mad mushroom.

View attachment 2021

View attachment 2022

Nice work - I snapped my ufl antenna wire from the wifi card, Ive been looking for a replacement.

So if you did both front and back is this the setup you would need?
2.4 GHz Bluebeam Ultra Antenna Set (RHCP) IBCrazy - RangeVideo

or would you go with 2 mad mushrooms?

And just 2 of these?
Pigtail UFL to SMA Male

Thanks Lamda
 

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