Power Button Controller Stuck

[SigmaPhil]

I've only had this Solo since Christmas last year. I've used it a few time, no problems. Today I went to turn the controller on and the power button stuck. It caused the Solo Controller to go into a power down loop and the only way I could get it to stop was to take the battery out.

Anyone else having this problem? Is there a quick fix?

Thanks.

 

[Bilge]

Open it up...& see what the problem is ......

 

[pious_greek]

@RichWest posted a really good step by step on this within the last week... it can be found using the search function

Looking for recommendations on how to clean "sticky" controller buttons

 

[SigmaPhil]

Open it up...& see what the problem is ......

I am a DIY type of guy, but not while it's under warranty.

 

[SigmaPhil]

@RichWest posted a really good step by step on this within the last week... it can be found using the search function

Looking for recommendations on how to clean "sticky" controller buttons

Thanks for the link. I did do a search, but I guess I did not use the appropriate words, lol. I think I searched for "stuck power button" and nothing came up on the first page.

 

[SigmaPhil]

@RichWest posted a really good step by step on this within the last week... it can be found using the search function

Looking for recommendations on how to clean "sticky" controller buttons

Okay I looked at the link you sent me. Apparently I have to take the controller apart. I am willing to do that, but not while it's under warranty. I would rather get a replacement.

 

[Pushjerk]

If you proceed with the RMA process for a sticky Controller button, you'll be sending back your whole unit - Solo, battery, Controller, etc.

You can pop open your controller, sand/clean the appropriate parts, and fly tomorrow.

Go the RMA route, you might be flying by late February.


I did the former recently - sticky power button woes just like you. If you're careful and not too invasive with the sanding /razor work/cleaning for the power button, there's no way anyone would know you were In the Controller of it did go back for warranty in the future.

 

[SARDG]

If you proceed with the RMA process for a sticky Controller button, you'll be sending back your whole unit - Solo, battery, Controller, etc.

You can pop open your controller, sand/clean the appropriate parts, and fly tomorrow.

Go the RMA route, you might be flying by late February...

...and although I've personally never sent a Solo system back under warranty, those who have, receive a refurbished model returned to them - not the Solo they sent in.

 

[RichWest]

I believe cleaning out ALL of the button holes solves many problems people have had. The controller's deck flexes just enough that a partially stuck button can activate without the user realizing. This is not a manufacturing defect, but the design could have had a looser tolerance to allow sand/dirt to not wedge into the interface. You people must have dirty hands...

Just to be clear, anyone that has done this mod went through the typical efforts to correct previously- cotton swab and alcohol, compressed air and/or repeatedly pressing the button to clear the jam. Some cases this works, but later returns. And again there is no short cut to sanding the holes, the controller needs to be opened up.

I've yet to hear of 3DR not warranting a mfg. defect or system caused failure, due to a simple mod being performed. Both @Pushjerk and @SARDG are correct in what you'll receive back when returning a brand new Solo for warranty work. And you may still have the same issue once replaced...as it is not seen as a manufacturing defect that they correct.

If you are up for the task, then do it now and be happy. Otherwise, suffer and lament over what to do... We are just sharing our experiences, a "been there - done that" kind of thing.

Welcome to RC Maintenance 101 btw, have you lubed your motor bearings yet?

 

[SigmaPhil]

:snip:

Welcome to RC Maintenance 101 btw, have you lubed your motor bearings yet?

Thanks, LOL! And no, I have not lubed my motor bearings. What product do you recommend?

 

[SigmaPhil]

...and although I've personally never sent a Solo system back under warranty, those who have, receive a refurbished model returned to them - not the Solo they sent in.

You guys have talked me out of going the RMA route. I'll open the controller and see what I can do. Worse case scenario I can always get another one at Best Buy and get a better deal than I originally got.

 

[Pushjerk]

You guys have talked me out of going the RMA route. I'll open the controller and see what I can do. Worse case scenario I can always get another one at Best Buy and get a better deal than I originally got.

Do take care in opening the Controller. There are some YouTube videos out there to guide you, show you where the tabs are to separate the Controller after removing screws, which cables to disconnect first when open, etc.

 

[SigmaPhil]

Do take care in opening the Controller. There are some YouTube videos out there to guide you, show you where the tabs are to separate the Controller after removing screws, which cables to disconnect first when open, etc.

Will do, Thanks!

 

[SigmaPhil]

I'm almost embarrassed to share this but here goes.

I had an appliance repair guy over to repair my oven/range and we got to talking about drones. I told him about my controller button sticking and he gave a small container with silicone grease in it and told me to apply a small bit to the button and work it in a little. So I did and lo and behold the button is not sticking! It's not perfect but it is much better than it was. Thought I would share that story in case anyone else is having the same problem.

 

[RVgeeks]

Does anyone have any more guidance on how to get access to the button holes to sand them? I've opened up the controller using the instructions from this video:

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But I'm leery of going any further to remove the motherboard from the case. If I remove all of the cables/connectors and unscrew the board from the case, will the buttons come with the board, leaving the case holes accessible? Or is there more to it?

Thanks for any help/guidance.

 

[Pushjerk]

Sup RVGeeks,

I went all in with mine - my buttons (especially the power button) sucked.

Follow that video to get the controller open. Disregard the Wifi card mumbo jumbo.

Of note, my controller would not fully open, as some of the small wires had bee routed around the left gimbal (stick) and had some glue dabbed to keep them in place, this held the controller together a bit. I eventually removed the glue with hobby knife to access the innards more freely.

So yes, remove the board form the controller - keep track of screws and where all the wires go. Take pictures with your phone as you go, this is a good way to remember what plugs in where. It's not that complicated, but this will eliminate any doubt. You'll have to remove some screws to remove a component around the power barrel connector too.

Once the board has been removed, you find that there are plastic buttons under the face of the controller that, when depressed, press a small switch on the board. I could not remove these buttons, as they were on there pretty good. I simply pushed them out of the way (just like when you push them from the front of the controller, just much further) and went to town with some sand paper. As the buttons were not completely out of the way, the got kinda scuffed up too - small price to pay. After sanding, everything was like butter - no friction, no binding in any of my buttons.

Take it slow, don't over tighten any screws, and be very ginger with those cables. Remember to pull on connectors, not wires. Use a small flat head or pliers to pry/pull them up if need be.

Good luck.

 

[RVgeeks]

Sup RVGeeks,

I went all in with mine - my buttons (especially the power button) sucked.

Follow that video to get the controller open. Disregard the Wifi card mumbo jumbo.

Of note, my controller would not fully open, as some of the small wires had bee routed around the left gimbal (stick) and had some glue dabbed to keep them in place, this held the controller together a bit. I eventually removed the glue with hobby knife to access the innards more freely.

So yes, remove the board form the controller - keep track of screws and where all the wires go. Take pictures with your phone as you go, this is a good way to remember what plugs in where. It's not that complicated, but this will eliminate any doubt. You'll have to remove some screws to remove a component around the power barrel connector too.

Once the board has been removed, you find that there are plastic buttons under the face of the controller that, when depressed, press a small switch on the board. I could not remove these buttons, as they were on there pretty good. I simply pushed them out of the way (just like when you push them from the front of the controller, just much further) and went to town with some sand paper. As the buttons were not completely out of the way, the got kinda scuffed up too - small price to pay. After sanding, everything was like butter - no friction, no binding in any of my buttons.

Take it slow, don't over tighten any screws, and be very ginger with those cables. Remember to pull on connectors, not wires. Use a small flat head or pliers to pry/pull them up if need be.

Good luck.

Thanks so much for the confirmation and the details, Pushjerk! I was leery of proceeding any further with dismantling the controller, but what you've given me makes me feel more confident. Would be nice to have the power button behave normally and not stick!

Have a great weekend!