Pixhawk 2.1 Cube on Solo

Just to be sure:
The trace from the outer to the middle pad has to be cut and the inner and middle pad have to be connected?
Thanks!
 
well... i know now this mod it is not necesary with the soon to come master 4 (3.7dev)..
but i found this and i think it is interesting...

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i never was able to crack open the black cube (i couldn´t detach the clear plastic top hehe)
 

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If you look at the pads before you do anything to the PH2.1, you will see a trace between the middle one and the one to the outside of the PH2.1. This is the trace that must be cut and the new solder bridge needs to be applied between the middle and the inner pad.
The middle pad is the VCCB of the level shifter and the outer pad is the default setting (3.3V) for the PH2.1. Cut that trace and bridge to the other pad which is 5.0V.
Your goal is to switch the VCCB of the level shifter from the default of 3.3V to the alternate of 5.0V.
proficnc or jesters should have this procedure for you to follow, but if you need any other assistance ---->> just ask.
having performed such an action with the board, connecting this method to a 5 volt jumper, how the usual 2.0 cube will work, in case of a reset or complete reset, whether it will work with this Pixhawk 2.0 jumper ???
 
having performed such an action with the board, connecting this method to a 5 volt jumper, how the usual 2.0 cube will work, in case of a reset or complete reset, whether it will work with this Pixhawk 2.0 jumper ???
Sorry guys!
Got it.
Read it.
Understood.
 
To switch a PH2.1 to PH2.1 Green you need to be comfortable soldering and working in very close quarters.
Procedure:
1. obtain PH2.1
2. open bottom where main connector is, this may require some skill with an X-acto knife.
3. locate jumper pads, that is what the pictogram above is for.
4. cut the small trace.
5. make a solder blob between the centre and the other pad.
6. check for shorts.
7. clean up flux residue.
8. put cube back together.
9. enjoy the "Green" goodness
10. don't fall out of the sky.

I don't have a PH2.1 so I can't take any detailed pix of the effected area, but I have modified 3 PH2.0 cubes as detailed elsewhere. I use a stereo zoom microscope, it helps a lot.

Is there any way to test or check for shorts? I've cut the trace which seems to be copper color between the outer two pads but its hard to tell if I have cut it it completely. Is there a way to test it and also when I make the new solder between the center pad and the inner pad how can I test that out ?

Thanks
 
At this point, the mod is no longer needed. ArduCopter master now supports the slew rate limiter and all other solo compatibility matters. Open Solo 4 will get you that.
 
At this point, the mod is no longer needed. ArduCopter master now supports the slew rate limiter and all other solo compatibility matters. Open Solo 4 will get you that.

Thanks for your reply @Pedals2Paddles . We mainly wanted to do this as experiment just to compare in terms of performance. Is there any advantage of using the black cube(unmodified) instead of the stock cube? Or the black cube modified/green cube in terms of performance and hardware itself ?
 
Operating with 5 volt signalling (green cube or modified black cube) allowed you to turn off the slew rate limiting. Technically it can blast off faster if you mash the sticks with the sliders at full rabbit. But honestly, the PID tuning we redid for use with the new slew rate code in master makes it perform really really nicely still. Unless you're racing this thing, I see no performance enhancement that would actually matter.
 
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Operating with 5 volt signalling (green cube or modified black cube) allowed you to turn off the slew rate limiting. Technically it can blast off faster if you mash the sticks with the sliders at full rabbit. But honestly, the PID tuning we redid for use with the new slew rate code in master makes it perform really really nicely still. Unless you're racing this thing, I see no performance enhancement that would actually matter.

@Pedals2Paddles We definitely do not want to use the solo for racing. Thank you so much for that information and your help on other issues posted on all the different forums. We really appreciate it .
 
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Hello! Recently received a Mini Carrier Board for the cube. I intend to connect the Solo cube .. Do I need to do the mod, which is a 3.3 / 5v switching discussion here? Is it enough for the Mini Carrier Board to have a jumper that has 5 volts on by default?
mini_04__65050.jpg
and another question ..)
i have two solo cube, one is great! and the other is the problem.
How do I get into this Solo cube to write the usual Arducopter firmware.? The Mission planner doesn't want to update this Solo Cube. (
i connected cube to usb. Сonnection and loading of parameters is good. But when I want to update the firmware the mission planner says that the unidentified board..
I would appreciate any thoughts or links where this can be read.
 
Last edited:
Hello! Recently received a Mini Carrier Board for the cube. I intend to connect the Solo cube .. Do I need to do the mod, which is a 3.3 / 5v switching discussion here? Is it enough for the Mini Carrier Board to have a jumper that has 5 volts on by default?
View attachment 10528
and another question ..)
i have two solo cube, one is great! and the other is the problem.
How do I get into this Solo cube to write the usual Arducopter firmware.? The Mission planner doesn't want to update this Solo Cube. (
i connected cube to usb. Сonnection and loading of parameters is good. But when I want to update the firmware the mission planner says that the unidentified board..
I would appreciate any thoughts or links where this can be read.

In answer to question 1 regarding 3.3 to 5v mod, this is not required. Most ESCs will work just fine with 3.3v signalling (assume you are not using in Solo given you have Mini CB) but even if you were using in Solo, the latest version of Open Solo negates the mod as well. See above post from @Pedals2Paddles regarding slew rates.
 
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