Penn Cove Waters are No Place for Solo: Add Me to the List

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It has been a fun several weeks with Solo - flying with a little more joy and less worry that with my DIY builds, and capturing some dramatic footage using more complex and smooth cinematic motion that I could not have imagined at this point in my MR flying.

The fun ended abruptly last evening with a splash in the shallow waters on the north side of Penn Cove, Whidbey Island, WA. Had a lovely evening out at the beach with the family

I was running a Multi-Point Cable Cam out over the glassy water at sunset when an unexpected loss in altitude led to the dunk in the cold waters of the Puget Sound.

The Cable:
First point was set (A button) right at the shoreline, about ~8 feet above the water. Headed out about ~150 feet, maintaining altitude (looked to be the same, if not around ~10 feet), tilting cam up, set point #2 (A button). Then continued out In The same direction while ascending and panning right to get some sunset, then set point #3 ending the cable (B button).

The App stated cable would take about 1:07 (?) to complete, and I wanted to run it to come back to starting position, so I brought the time down to about 35 sec to bring it back fast. It came back to the point #1 in cable just fine, kinda fast as expected, sorta seemed like it skipped the second point all together.

Leading to the crash: from point #1 in the cable, while hovering, I adjusted speed of cable to about 45 seconds within the app, and hit play. Solo started moving toward point #2 and it was immediately evident that Solo was losing altitude. In a bit of a panic I fumbled with the sticks to climb (did not work), then fumbled my way to A button which was my Fly:Manual button, and in a Pacific Northwest flash, Solo hit the water.

Down went stock solo, gimbal, and a GoPro Hero 4 Black with Peau 4.35mm.

I was able to recover Solo as it was only about 50 feet or so out in the water. It was a cold wade out, but it had to be done. I’m sure anyone here would have done the same. To sweeten the affair, wife (photographer) had camera at the ready upon my exiting the water.

Despite Solo's dark color in the dusk light and rocky bottom, Solo was easy to spot in the ~5 foot deep water as the still illuminated blue (?) lights gave its position away. The rear props spun off after contacting water. Battery spent the night in a .50 cal ammo can outside and Solo is drip drying from its salty bath. I haven't tried to power anything on, and don't necessarily plan to.

Well I wanted to get 3DR’s take on this so I sent in this narrative with the logs. I certainly ask myself, Did I eff this up? Was I too confident in the Smart Shots' capability to hold altitude? I know a minimal altitude drift is expected (a foot or two?) but nothing that would have sent me in The drink, otherwise I would have never dreamed of setting up a cable that distance from the water. I have set up plenty of cables to date, and many with similar proximity to water, and they have all performed flawlessly. The fact that the reverse of this same cable brought solo back to point #1 tells me something was possibly amiss on the forward leg.

Of note, weather conditions were perfect. No wind. No storms moving in with drastic changes in barometric pressure. Location was a wide open beach, no trees house or buildings - perfect. I believe Sat count was around 9 or 10. This was flight #2. No symptoms prior to crash.

Crashing aside, was a fine evening to fly. Got some great footage. Great memories. Won't quit flying any time soon.

Just a snap from the flight. Video to come.
image.png

Happy half-naked former solo owner.
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My Polar Pro filter pack came in the mail today too! Just in time.
 
Thats a bugger. I hope 3dr helps out.

I have found that if i setup a MPCC with a low alt point of say 6ft and another higher point, if i speed up the shot it will often get very close to the ground (think 1ft or less - ive had to hit pause a few times) on the downwards leg. If moving at high speed i make my low alt points slightly higher to compensate.

If at normal speed it doesnt drift alt wise as much ive noticed.

Chris

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
I adjusted speed of cable to about 45 seconds within the app, and hit play. Solo started moving toward point #2 and it was immediately evident that Solo was losing altitude. In a bit of a panic I fumbled with the sticks to climb (did not work), then fumbled my way to A button which was my Fly:Manual button, and in a Pacific Northwest flash, Solo hit the water.

Down went stock solo, gimbal, and a GoPro Hero 4 Black
Almost EXACTLY how mine crashed 2 days ago. Except it took off into a neighborhood and crashed into a roof - smashed into pieces, battery 20 feet away from the coptor and Gopro about 40' away on the other side of the house. Coptor, battery and gimble hosed, but GoPro like new.

I just got off chat with tech, did a log and emailed in pics, info, and the flyaway video (which ended right after it started it's fly away). Here's a link:
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Ok. So first, 8 or 10 feet is to low. I do it all the time myself, but always run the dangerous part of the cable by hand and slow, to make sure I have the altitude. That's because altitude is judged by the barometers, and air pressure can change. If your only dealing with an 8 or 10 foot margin AND you are flying fast, it can be close.

The other thing is how the cable Beizers curves work, it might actually construct a path that dips down. There was a thread about this some time back where someone drew some diagrams. But the gist of it was that from the side view on a 3 point cable with the first 2 point low and the third high, shows the cable dipping down (so it can swing up through the second point on a curve).

Anyway, those are two quick thoughts for you. You should look up advice on recover drones from salt water (your chances aren't good). Fresh water is doable, unless the barometers get soaked.
 
and people call me crazy/noob for staying at the very minimum 30ft away from all objects.

Solo can be unpredictable...better keep that safety margin.

Nice photos though.
 
A hard and valuable lesson on Multi-Point Cable Cams, guys. Thanks for the replies.

Erikgraham, your piece on the cable Beizers curves is a pretty important piece of information. These types of maneuvers will most certainly be in manual mode from here on.

As far as 8-10 ft being too close, of course it is. But those shots skimming the water, or sliding across the face of a mountain, they're so worth the risk - at least I was telling myself that prior to yesterday evening :) Inanimate objects off personal property and away from any built up areas only, though. Def wouldn't condone this style of operation around any civilization.

Now regarding recovery from the salt water - I've written all electronics off. If there is any potential to salvage parts, it will likely be plastic parts and hardware only.

As stated in the first post, I've been in touch with 3DR. They've gotten back to me requesting some follow up info. They'll prob just tell me I'm dumb.

The footage turned out great. I'll post a little edit in the coming days. Still looking into recovering the corrupt file that contains the crash - would be fun to see.
 
A hard and valuable lesson on Multi-Point Cable Cams, guys. Thanks for the replies.

Erikgraham, your piece on the cable Beizers curves is a pretty important piece of information. These types of maneuvers will most certainly be in manual mode from here on.

As far as 8-10 ft being too close, of course it is. But those shots skimming the water, or sliding across the face of a mountain, they're so worth the risk - at least I was telling myself that prior to yesterday evening :) Inanimate objects off personal property and away from any built up areas only, though. Def wouldn't condone this style of operation around any civilization.

Now regarding recovery from the salt water - I've written all electronics off. If there is any potential to salvage parts, it will likely be plastic parts and hardware only.

As stated in the first post, I've been in touch with 3DR. They've gotten back to me requesting some follow up info. They'll prob just tell me I'm dumb.

The footage turned out great. I'll post a little edit in the coming days. Still looking into recovering the corrupt file that contains the crash - would be fun to see.
Agreed. Sometimes it's worth it. I even run the cable manually a few times faster and faster until I'm sure I'll be good. And then do full auto. On full auto sometimes i still start slow then build. So basically I just ease into it if I'm worried about a shot. So thats what i do. But yeah, you shouldn't fly within 30ft of the ground, etc, etc. my go to "abort" move on the Solo is to hit Fly and throttle up.
 
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Take it apart and hose w lits of fresh water. The salt is so corrosive and conductive. We recently dropped a portable ac unit in the salt water when our dog trippef my son who was bringing it on the big boat. Once we got it in the dock, we hosed it for a minute or two. Then let it air dry for a week. All is well since I didnt put power to it to soon. Not a guarantee, but good to try for sure!
 
Take it apart and hose w lits of fresh water. The salt is so corrosive and conductive. We recently dropped a portable ac unit in the salt water when our dog trippef my son who was bringing it on the big boat. Once we got it in the dock, we hosed it for a minute or two. Then let it air dry for a week. All is well since I didnt put power to it to soon. Not a guarantee, but good to try for sure!
I would totally agree that Pushjerk's Solo was initially salvageable - if it would have been completely disassembled and rinsed thoroughly in fresh water, then effectively dried - IMMEDIATELY, and then not powering on until it is COMPLETELY dry in every nook and cranny. Once he came home, thought about it, posted pics, etc. etc., I wouldn't have given it much chance for recovery.

I live and boat on salt water- and I am clumsy. That combination has given me several opportunities to save dunked electronics.
 
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Solo is currently sitting in a pile of rice after a long freshwater bath (this was done the same evening solo went down) - lots of swishing, rinsing, tumbling, draining. Won't be cracking the bird open and rinsing components off just yet - would like to hear from 3DR first.

Battery was removed when it came to the surface at the beach. Power has not been applied since.

I've brought many electronics back from the "dead" after H2O immersion, but confidence is lost. Even if solo powered up, I would never feel good about it being in the air again. Parting out damaged but operational electronics, possibly. Any damaged motors, ESCs, Servos I've got working again after getting wet end up in ground pounders.
 
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The longer that salt sits in there the more corrosion and damage is taking place. The salt is worse than the wet electronics itself. In electronic pcb manufacturing, we washed all stuffed circuit boards in a large dishwasher with light solvents to remove the flux. The water isn't an issue as long as power isn't running. It's salt+copper. Some of those traces are very small and it wouldn't take very long to completely dissolve the copper traces. And like rust, once it's there...

If they deem it your fault, you'd probably want a salvagable solo. If they deem it their fault, I don't think they will fault you for cleaning it out. The evidence is in the logs. If they accept it as a RMA they are going to toss it anyway since it's been submerged in salt water.

I'd clean it.
 
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Solo is currently sitting in a pile of rice after a long freshwater bath - lots of swishing, rinsing, tumbling, draining. Won't be cracking the bird open and rinsing components off just yet - would like to hear from 3DR first.
If you didn't crack it open to assist in rinsing and especially drying, then I think your chances for recovery are greatly diminished. Good luck though, and let us know.

I would have taken it apart, left that disassembly part out of the story to 3DR support, and then if 3DR wanted the bird back, reassemble it.
 
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Sorry to hear about both your crashes, but you may be in OK shape. As long as the logs put the blame on solo than I'm pretty confident you'll be issued a refurb unit. I sent mine in cause of stability issues at a year and was sent a new one basically as far as I can tell at least. There's a few things I'm sure they re used as refurbished, but a lot of solo you can tell if it's been used and most of mine looks great. I've taken it apart and there is no sign whatsoever that it was used and the battery is great compared to my year old one. New battery and new motors at least unless they swap all that shiny plastic and I'd bet that wouldn't save them enough to bother. Anyway just saying that 3dr has been good to me and most others when their at fault. For them to pick and choose parts to refurb would be a bigger pain I'd think and I'm leaning toward at least some of these refurbished solos being new. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Oh and be a bit persistent if you feel your in the right, I had to file a couple tickets after hearing things were fine before I sent it in and recieved a refurb.
 
Brought solo out of the rice today, a bit of moisture still present. Took plate just below battery off and removed GPS to dry separately. Again, not holding out any hope that this bird will fly again, but that it may be a good source of parts.

On a pretty positive note, the GoPro looked pretty dry, so I stuck a battery in it. Powered up like nothing happened. Removed battery, and stuck back in rice, gonna wait at least another day before sticking lens back on there to try some shooting.
 
If you can warm the rice in an oven or something (minus the solo lol) that will speed the process up. Taking the main parts apart will help too. Warm like 120 deg. It will also help get rid of the moisture the rice has already soaked up so it will dry out faster. You can also put the container of rice with the solo in it on a heating pad.
 
If you can warm the rice in an oven or something (minus the solo lol) that will speed the process up. Taking the main parts apart will help too...
Pushjerk- you didn't ask for it, but my 2 cents... the Solo must be completely disassembled and thoroughly rinsed in fresh water ASAP after submersion. Then, all the water droplets blown out of every nook and cranny with an air compressor - or canned air if you don't have a compressor/nozzle. Then you can worry about rice. I actually use a lamp close-by to dry the components. I wouldn't even THINK about putting a battery in and powering up until several days after I absolutely knew it was completely and totally dry.

I have actually saved a lot of electronics and have never used rice.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Ill likely employ at least some of the strategies above in my continued salvage efforts.

I look forward to being in contact with 3DR this coming week. Not holding my breath, but would certainly be refreshing if they wanna help me out.

I by no means feel entitled to a replacement Solo. Though I must say that some further details and !Notes! regarding the tendency of a Smart Shot could certainly alleviate a mishap - The kind of details stated In This thread, for example.

For conversations sake, am I the idiot for not heeding the "30 meters from all obstacles" guidance and setting up a MPCC ivo an object? I mean, in the webinars Mr. Colin Guinn has gone on about setting up a cable through a narrow opening in trees and flying it backward for the dramatic effect of the branches swooshing by before a reveal over the tree tops. Furthermore, in the manual, figure 6.4.2.1 on pg 51 (MPCC) has an image of solo 11ft off the ground just after point 2 of the cable.

What I'm getting at is this - Smart Shots, and MPCC especially, have taken some of the fear and uncertainty out of achieving dramatic effects like flying backward (or just not forward) and passing nearby "features" in your shots, making in possible with single person operation. Last week was doing an orbit out over the water around a former dock, having an old mooring post cruise right in front of the camera from the side. Setting up the orbit just feet beyond this feature made me "more" sure of it, though I still clenched my butt when approaching it, fingers crossed my orbit kept the same position. And as they had many times before, Smart Shots made it happen.

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My intended message is not that I condone a Cowboy'ish flying style. Only that I am all for responsibly setting up risky smart shots that you could likely not achieve In manual flight by a single operator. And by risky, I mean that only the aircraft is subject to the potential consequences.

The smart shot that put me in the drink a couple days ago was setup with the above principle in mind. At that time, I was I fact confident that I was not putting Solo at risk of damage - no more than normal flight over water would, anyway.
 
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Thanks for the tips guys. Ill likely employ at least some of the strategies above in my continued salvage efforts.

I look forward to being in contact with 3DR this coming week. Not holding my breath, but would certainly be refreshing if they wanna help me out.

I by no means feel entitled to a replacement Solo. Though I must say that some further details and !Notes! regarding the tendency of a Smart Shot could certainly alleviate a mishap - The kind of details stated In This thread, for example.

For conversations sake, am I the idiot for not heeding the "30 meters from all obstacles" guidance and setting up a MPCC ivo an object? I mean, in the webinars Mr. Colin Guinn has gone on about setting up a cable through a narrow opening in trees and flying it backward for the dramatic effect of the branches swooshing by before a reveal over the tree tops. Furthermore, in the manual, figure 6.4.2.1 on pg 51 (MPCC) has an image of solo 11ft off the ground just after point 2 of the cable.

What I'm getting at is this - Smart Shots, and MPCC especially, have taken some of the fear and uncertainty out of achieving dramatic effects like flying backward (or just not forward) and passing nearby "features" in your shots, making in possible with single person operation. Last week was doing an orbit out over the water around a former dock, having an old mooring post cruise right in front of the camera from the side. Setting up the orbit just feet beyond this feature made me "more" sure of it, though I still clenched my butt when approaching it, fingers crossed my orbit kept the same position. And as they had many times before, Smart Shots made it happen.

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My intended message is not that I condone a Cowboy'ish flying style. Only that I am all for responsibly setting up risky smart shots that you could likely not achieve In manual flight by a single operator. And by risky, I mean that only the aircraft is subject to the potential consequences.

The smart shot that put me in the drink a couple days ago was setup with the above principle in mind. At that time, I was I fact confident that I was not putting Solo at risk of damage - no more than normal flight over water would, anyway.
Agreed. Just test your cable/smart shot slowly a few times until you have confidence in it, and have a feel for it - so you can tell if it's off course a bit and be able to pause it without panic.
 

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