GIMBAL TEARDOWN - SORT OF (and now with some rebuild)

[Cyberblitz]

All I need is a Flat Flex Cable 14 point connector. Or a replacement mainboard (to save the hassle of micrsoldering the replacement connector)

 

[pyrate]

that is the one that came off of mine too
had some kind of crazy glue on it that I could not get off, and in trying ripped the socket out

 

[RichWest]

You don't happen to have an image of the yaw shaft plate? The disc with the V notch....

 

[Cyberblitz]

You don't happen to have an image of the yaw shaft plate? The disc with the V notch....

As requested:

Here is primarily where the damaged occurred; the force of the crash forced the yaw shaft further onto the Motor, shifting everything up below this point, allowing the Yaw arm to rub against the main Gimbal Plate:

View media item 468
View media item 469
View media item 467

 

[hackbard23]

i can see that Namiki has that motors on their site:

New Product Information | NAMIKI PRECISION JEWEL CO.,LTD.

http://www.namiki.net/product/dcmotor/pdf/SOBL23-1207_en.pdf

 

[Cyberblitz]

Holy smoke Batman, when did they appear?

This is awesome. Can't find a price though.

 

[hackbard23]

maybe you need to buy a quantity of 10000 pcs

 

[Cyberblitz]

I was thinking that too... Hopes dashed..

 

[RichWest]

Thanks for posting the pictures of the shaft plate. Never completely understood it's role on the gimbal, now it is clear.

Here is primarily where the damaged occurred; the force of the crash forced the yaw shaft further onto the Motor, shifting everything up below this point, allowing the Yaw arm to rub against the main Gimbal Plate:

Did any of the rubber isolators dislodge during the crash?

 

[Cyberblitz]

Thanks for posting the pictures of the shaft plate. Never completely understood it's role on the gimbal, now it is clear.


Did any of the rubber isolators dislodge during the crash?

No, they remained in place.

 

[RichWest]

No, they remained in place.

Interesting. Again thanks for posting the tear down.

Not being critical, if you had a slightly darker background, the parts details would appear much clearer...the bright contrast darkens the part's details. Brown cardboard is an effective background...

 

[Cyberblitz]

Interesting. Again thanks for posting the tear down.

Not being critical, if you had a slightly darker background, the parts details would appear much clearer...the bright contrast darkens the part's details. Brown cardboard is an effective background...

I know they're not good; I was using my camera phone, with the first pictures I used my DSLR

 

[RichWest]

I know they're not good; I was using my camera phone, with the first pictures I used my DSLR

Beggars can't be choosers, I have more details of the gimbal now than I did last week....thank you!

 

[Cyberblitz]

Update: I approached a local electronics business who dabble in micrsoldering, and when they had a look at the mainboard under a microscope it wasn't good news. The pads connecting it to the board also teared away the copper from the pcb, removing any possibility to reconnect. However, they did say with a bit of time they could follow the copper paths leading away from the connector and solder bypass wires to those areas. But they couldn't guarantee this would work and wouldn't take my money. At least they were honest...

Well, that's that. I do intend to have a go myself, considering I can't make it any worse. . .

In the mean time, does anyone want sell me their dud gimbal? Particularly the mainboard?

 

[JDaerial]

I just found this while looking for a solution to add a shotgun mic to my drone. Thus far it looks as though a male to female type D connector to pull the hdmi endplate away from the gopro is my only solution. If you ever get a spare I would love to see what the board inside the end plate looks like as I've envisioned putting the mic plug right through it but I know that likely won't be possible.

 

[JoelNewman]

I just found this while looking for a solution to add a shotgun mic to my drone. Thus far it looks as though a male to female type D connector to pull the hdmi endplate away from the gopro is my only solution. If you ever get a spare I would love to see what the board inside the end plate looks like as I've envisioned putting the mic plug right through it but I know that likely won't be possible.

I know it's been a while, but I had a similar thought, so here's a photo of the insides of the end HDMI connector. If you were able to cut/dig into the back of the plug then you may be able to expose those pins without fully dissassembling it, but you'd need something like a very fine Dremel because that grey glue covering the solder is pretty hard.

 

[Mikeymatt86]

Hello! I’m having trouble with my Gimbal especially the motor which is next to the GoPro its becoming very hot only after 20 seconds of turning it on, I see pictures in the post of the gimbal stripped down but how do you get the motor out ? I’ve tried and just can’t do it.

 

[just_bruce]

Sounds like it is either overloaded or poorly tuned. If you're comfortable on the command line there is a gimbal calibration program on board the SOLO, which you can access by SSHing into SOLO.

Look under /usr/bin/gimbal/

 

[Mikeymatt86]

I wouldn’t know where to start on the command line it’s definitely that motor next to where the GoPro goes, it moves its not jammed or stuck it moves freely but just gets really hot then you fly it the camera just goes everywhere side to side

 

[Mullazman]

I took mine apart to remove the GoPro connector in order to fix my Xaoimi Yi action cam to it more snugly than it was. I found the ribbon cable from the main board is hard pressed as your photos indicate into the board and can't be unplugged without removing the extra circular board which is inside the arm housing, which was super lame because I threaded the last screw I needed to get off to remove it from the arm, so until I fix that, I can't remove the board - otherwise that would have been grand because I don't have a GoPro but the form factor is the same as the Yi