Suggested GoPro Settings for Solo

Greg Parker · Jul 15, 2016

Bluesgeek, it sounds like you know more about than I do. I just didn't want others to think there was no reason to use the NDs for their intended purpose with the GPs.

bluesgeek · Jul 15, 2016

Greg Parker said:
I just didn't want others to think there was no reason to use the NDs for their intended purpose with the GPs.

I completely agree with that. GP seems to be a great tool, but one that has to be wrangled on its own terms.

Petemac83 · Jul 15, 2016

My biggest issue is the propellers and legs coming into the shot, and also the gimbal is a little jerky and not too smooth, maybe i just need practice, i think a lot of my problems would be solved with a modified go pro.

pyrate · Jul 15, 2016

the modified gopro will address props and legs in the shot for the most part even shooting wide. I can still get a prop in the shot if I fly aggressively enough.
As for vibrations conventional wisdom says a modified lens will not help but hurt. I find that the newer lenses don't really add that much to the video vibrations. Look at Rich's tension vs compression thread at post 109 to see what I find so far to be the most effective way to deal with that

Petemac83 · Jul 15, 2016

pyrate said:
the modified gopro will address props and legs in the shot for the most part even shooting wide. I can still get a prop in the shot if I fly aggressively enough.
As for vibrations conventional wisdom says a modified lens will not help but hurt. I find that the newer lenses don't really add that much to the video vibrations. Look at Rich's tension vs compression thread at post 109 to see what I find so far to be the most effective way to deal with that

Im not really talking about vibrations as such, but just if i pan up or down it is kind of a bit stop start, i guess i just have to go really slow, it just doesn't look great, i will have to just plan shots where i don't pan too much i guess.

pyrate · Jul 15, 2016

done calibrations since last firmware?

Maddog · Jul 15, 2016

Petemac83 said:
My biggest issue is the propellers and legs coming into the shot, and also the gimbal is a little jerky and not too smooth, maybe i just need practice, i think a lot of my problems would be solved with a modified go pro.

If I'm just filming straight ahead, I find setting the gimbal at 85° instead of 90° helps keep the props out of view. Legs usually show up when unmodified GoPro is set to WIDE and Solo yaws too aggressively.

If you're talking about the gimbal being jerky when going up and down, then you should either make use of the presets, or practice with the paddle. The farther you move it, the faster it moves.

Post up some of your video and we can give you a better idea of what's going on.

PdxSteve · Jul 15, 2016

The paddle that controls the gimbal movement is basically like the gas pedal on your car. Press lightly and it gives a little gas and accelerates slowly to the given throttle position. Press down harder and it accelerates quickly, which is what you don't want 99% of the time with video unless you want to make your audience sick or you're doing a combat jet fighter scene. Approach the gimbal like if you are driving your 90 year old grandma around in your car, and your car is a 500HP muscle car lol. Gradually accelerate and then gradually decelerate as you start to approach your target to provide a smooth in and out. Don't just step on the gas or suddenly let off. Granny gets pissed when you do that. It takes a bit of practice to get used to it. Allow the audience the time to absorb the scene.

erikgraham · Jul 16, 2016

Petemac83 said:
Im not really talking about vibrations as such, but just if i pan up or down it is kind of a bit stop start, i guess i just have to go really slow, it just doesn't look great, i will have to just plan shots where i don't pan too much i guess.

I agree with the others regarding a softer touch on the gimbal paddle, but I would add that the preset buttons on the other side of the controller are a great way to get super smooth tilting up and down. Preset A to 85 degrees. Preset B to 45 degrees. Use the wheel to adjust the speed to 11 seconds. Then try messing around with that. Eventually you'll adjust those settings to match your needs, but I find that works for me pretty well. Rarely do I look straight down, but when I want that I change B to 0 degrees. Also I play with the wheel a lot to get the speed I want, but 11 seconds is a good slow starting point.

RichWest · Jul 17, 2016

It would be nice if they offered an adjustment, in software, to slow down the paddle speed. I'd actually prefer a HW switch and/or a variable resistor to control on the fly. There was a mod on the P2 using a variable resistor to control the yaw rotation speed, it worked very well.

But like Erik said, the preset gimbal control is effective in doing the same.

pyrate · Jul 17, 2016

there is a hack on the mod page to change the speed of the paddle
never tried it

RichWest · Jul 18, 2016

Found it, Jason Short via @franknitty69,... I remember it now...still don't trust my computer hacking skills.

erikgraham · Jul 18, 2016

RichWest said:
Found it, Jason Short via @franknitty69,... I remember it now...still don't trust my computer hacking skills.

Thank you. I think I'll try this.

Maddog · Jul 19, 2016

RichWest said:
It would be nice if they offered an adjustment, in software, to slow down the paddle speed. I'd actually prefer a HW switch and/or a variable resistor to control on the fly. There was a mod on the P2 using a variable resistor to control the yaw rotation speed, it worked very well.

But like Erik said, the preset gimbal control is effective in doing the same.

Would be nice if the gimbal preset speed wheel worked with the paddle too.

Mr GruntHunter · Jul 19, 2016

I agree with that. Do you think that would have to be a hardware mod or could it be done with software?

twitchyzero · Aug 27, 2016

bump

maybe we can get a new discussion/update now that ISO can be locked and shutter speed is finally introduced.

I shoot at 30fps with ND4/CPL in low-mod light and ND8/CPL in bright light

my short test in cloudy sunset with the ND4/CPL yielded best result with 1/30 and ISO200 locked

What is its equiv in stops for ND8? 1/60 ISO200? 1/30 ISO100? 1/60 ISO 100? Sorry Im bad at these conversions.

erikgraham · Aug 28, 2016

twitchyzero said:
bump

maybe we can get a new discussion/update now that ISO can be locked and shutter speed is finally introduced.

I shoot at 30fps with ND4/CPL in low-mod light and ND8/CPL in bright light

my short test in cloudy sunset with the ND4/CPL yielded best result with 1/30 and ISO200 locked

What is its equiv in stops for ND8? 1/60 ISO200? 1/30 ISO100? 1/60 ISO 100? Sorry Im bad at these conversions.

Unfortunately I can no longer edit the sticky. There is apparently a word count limit on posts now. If I try to edit my own post, I'm told I can't because it's too long.

I'm gonna wait until I've actually played around with the new settings for awhile. Then I'll contact the admins when I'm ready to edit.

The key difference is going to be how we use ND filters going forward. Previously we used ND filters to "trick" the GoPro's software into using a slower shutter speed, thereby giving us jello reducing motion blur, that looks more cinematic. That was a bit of a "tail wagging the dog" situation.

Now that we can lock shutter speed, we can start using NDs more like normal people, i.e. to help achieve the right exposure for a desired shutter speed and/or ISO. (aperture is still fixed of course).