Good point!
From my perspective when i will not be able to set fixed shutter speed I will fly on auto, and rest of the filters from peau will be used as well
GoPro HERO4 Black/Silver update v4.0
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From my perspective when i will not be able to set fixed shutter speed I will fly on auto, and rest of the filters from peau will be used as well
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Yes, the rest of the 6 pack is certainly just as useful in auto exposure today as it was this time last week.
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Apologies for late answer, I must have missed the post notification.
Yes, it's a cinematic choice. Some really like the cinematic blur. Others do not. Frankly, more video has been screwed up by inexperienced people shooting 24P because some moron told them that it's the only framerate that a pro would use. This simply isn't so, and 24p is becoming less and less relevant compared to p60.
These days, I only shoot 24p when requested to. I prefer p60, as do most of my pro clients
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No. I'm instructing at a workshop on 107 maintenance tonight. I fly out butt-ugly early tomorrow. Otherwise, we'd be sharing a beer or two.
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Ditto. In the air, heading for Dallas now. Looking forward to meeting some of the folks from this community.
Wish I had the time, but duty calls way too often these days. I wish everyone attending gets three steps further in this endeavor. Thanks again Douglas!
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I would just offer up the fact that before this update, very few of us were ever shooting at 30 fps with 1/60 shutter speed, even when using ND filters to "trick" the GoPro into slowing down the shutter. Maybe if you were out there using ND32s or 64s, but other than that it's doubtful.
And yet we all benefited from the jello reduction of ND filters... That's because you don't need to follow the 180 rule (i.e. setting shutter speed to 2x frame rate) if you want to reduce jello. It's overkill and depending on your taste, will probably be too blurry anyway.
The point is that the whole 180 thing was from a different time for a different purpose. With a digital camera with a CMOS sensor we don't need to be a slave to that convention. So try using those ND8s and 16s, but with a bit faster shutter than 1/60. Your footage will be sharper, but still have a bit of motion blur where and when it needs it.
And yet we all benefited from the jello reduction of ND filters... That's because you don't need to follow the 180 rule (i.e. setting shutter speed to 2x frame rate) if you want to reduce jello. It's overkill and depending on your taste, will probably be too blurry anyway.
The point is that the whole 180 thing was from a different time for a different purpose. With a digital camera with a CMOS sensor we don't need to be a slave to that convention. So try using those ND8s and 16s, but with a bit faster shutter than 1/60. Your footage will be sharper, but still have a bit of motion blur where and when it needs it.
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I totally agree Erik. The new features on GP allow you to get even more creative with your Hero. For some, it's a godsend, for others, it's another set of frustrations.
The GP works amazingly in auto. Throw some filters on and you get even better images, throw protune on and Yada Yada.
The 180° shutter is my personal preference. I love the look. It's only one of a number of things I do do get a more filmic look.
Apologies if I made it sound like anything was gospel.
I'm not a religious guy but I love your sermons. Thanks for your input
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No gospel detected. I just wanted to remind folks they've probably been getting by all this time without going full 180. Now that they can, they shouldn't be a slave to it. Personally I think you can still match a cinematic look at 4K 30 using a faster shutter than 1/60. Not much faster. Just a tad quicker.
For me, the biggest issue matching GoPro footage to film is noise and blockiness in motion blur. So before focusing on slowing down shutter, I focus on the noise. I remove every bit I can using neat video. Then I add the appropriate amount of grain back in using something like filmConvert. If needed, I might add some motion blur in post.
Hi Erik,
Not sure I agree 100% (but kind of do), if you look at the metadata of a photo the gopro writes it tells you what the exposure time is (note a video doesnt have this metadata). With an ND8PL filter in moderately bright light I was at 1/60 (so close to the 180 degree rule). I suggest those using filters have a look at the photos metadata to work out what your shutter speed will be. Of course this only works if you take a pic just before you record your footage.
It was just annoying you had to take the pic, then your footage and then review afterwards to get the shutter, this update eliminates that part. I only did this when I was really interested.
I'm curious about what you are seeing (that you require even higher level filtering), I'm hesitant to update my GP firmware as I kinda like the turn on solo and my camera just starts. I have no issues with updating firmware its just that I upgraded from a GP3+ Black to the GP4B for this reason, so I'm likely to wait till that is fixed (or if there is a long wait I may just do it anyway).
For me an ND4 filter on a semi bright day results in a 1/273 shutter speed, a bright day on an ND8PL will be about a 1/80, so yes I agree that most using filters were unlikely to be getting close to the 180 degree rule on a bright and sunny day, but overcast and using an ND8PL they might be getting close. I don't prescribe to it having to be exact, I think if its roughly right then it turns out good.
Chris
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Yeah. Your right. It depends on where your flying. Even the geography matters (sand/rocks, vs forrest, vs lake) because of how light is reflected differently). So maybe my assumption was too much of an assumption. All the more reason those Polar Pro ND filter sets are still worth keeping. The point about letting your shutter speed creep up above 1/60 is still valid. You'll still get jello reducing motion blur, but retain some more detail.
Reading the meta data on the photo idea is genius by the way. As long as ISO and other settings are the same so that your comparing apples to apples. I'm gonna start doing this (when I have time at a site). Even if the light changes over time, getting a good baseline using your photo meta data trick will be hugely valuable. I can adjust by gut feel if lighting changes... once I have that baseline.
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At 30FPS with a manually set 1/60 shutter using an ND16 filter, the video is over exposed in several places and too bright across the rest, even in flat. The exact same sunlight and ground conditions in auto shutter with an ND8 filter yield a result that much more toned down and not over exposed. So the notion that an ND8 filter is producing even close to a 180 degree shutter is definitely not true. If you put an ND8 filter on the GoPro with a manually set 180 degree exposure (1/60 @ 30fps), your image will look like a nuclear bomb flash. An ND32 filter becomes your bare minimum for a bright sunny days when using a manually set 180 degree shutter.
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