SOLO Gimbal No Power

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Finally got around to unboxing my Back Up SOLO. Hooked up the Gimbal and found that it had no power; no LED. Suspected a bad connection. Removed the Battery tray and found that the Gimbal connector was soldered to the main board backwards. The top pic is an incorrectly installed Gimbal Connector; the bottom is correct.
Thought it would be simple to unplug and reconnect correctly; not the case; it's soldered to the board. Pretty much trashed it trying to take it off. Not simple to simply unsolder as the solder job is underneath the board insulating material which is bonded to the underside of the board.

Have an email into 3dr; but not very optimistic in them sending me a new board...

Any suggestions much appreciated.
 
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I think you two chooses, one is to remove the insulation and re-solder them, second is to cut the wires and and spice them to together in the reverse order.
 
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Bummer... Give 3DR a chance to remedy, they are still taking care of people. Thanks for posting the pictures, I wouldn't have believed it otherwise. Pretty sad to have seen that happen.
 
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I think you two chooses, one is to remove the insulation and re-solder them, second is to cut the wires and and spice them to together in the reverse order.
Gonna give 3DR a chance to respond first. If that doesnt work, will try to remove the insulator and solder wires directly to the through holes.
Time not on my side here; work is taking me out of town on Monday until mid April with a week home end of Feb; argh!
 
View attachment 7673 View attachment 7674
Finally got around to unboxing my Back Up SOLO. Hooked up the Gimbal and found that it had no power; no LED. Suspected a bad connection. Removed the Battery tray and found that the Gimbal connector was soldered to the main board backwards. The top pic is a correctly installed Gimbal Connector; the bottom is incorrect.
Thought it would be simple to unplug and reconnect correctly; not the case; it's soldered to the board. Pretty much trashed it trying to take it off. Not simple to simply unsolder as the solder job is underneath the board insulating material which is bonded to the underside of the board.

Have an email into 3dr; but not very optimistic in them sending me a new board...

Any suggestions much appreciated.
Top pic is not correctly soldered, the bottom pic is correctly soldered, I'm sure you mixed them up when posting...

on the right side of the connector is the gimbal battery power it's the red wire, on the left end its the GoPro brown ground clearly marked....
 
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If 3dr doesn't help, the easiest solution might be to order a gimbal cable from @User Name and ask that he reverse the wires on one of his connectors. You'll get the correct connections to the gimbal and have the softer silicon wires to lesson vibration to the gimbal.
 
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Yeah, User_Name would be a good source on how to approach removing the terminal and/or the insulating sheet. He cautioned me against it back when I was considering soldering in flexible data cable he makes. His advice was to solder in the leads to the stubbed up old wires.
 
Top pic is not correctly soldered, the bottom pic is correctly soldered, I'm sure you mixed them up when posting...

on the right side of the connector is the gimbal battery power it's the red wire, on the left end its the GoPro brown ground clearly marked....

You are correct; Thanks for pointing this out.
Mike
Top pic is not correctly soldered, the bottom pic is correctly soldered, I'm sure you mixed them up when posting...

on the right side of the connector is the gimbal battery power it's the red wire, on the left end its the GoPro brown ground clearly marked....

Yep; Thanks for pointing this out. Corrected thru post edit.
 
Wow, holy smokes, that's a manufacturing defect if there ever was one. As XevetS said, the bottom pic has the cable installed correctly.

As for the "connector" itself, as you discovered, it's not really a connector. I suspect the purpose was simply to speed manufacturer by being able to pop in and solder all the wires at once via the housing vs. soldering in each wire separately.

The insulation stuff on the bottom of the board isn't really bonded, it's just a fairly strong adhesive that comes off mostly clean (at least it did on mine). I removed that connector thing on one of my Solos and soldered one of my cables directly. What made it challenging was A- removing the pins left when the connector broke off, and B- the solder they used in manufacturing didn't melt very well. It was probably lead-free, which tends not to melt as easily as older leaded solder. Even with a good iron and lots of heat, it just didn't seem to want to melt or stay melted.

It's doable if you have to and if you're decent as soldering though, but yea, I definitely advised Rich that it wasn't worth the effort. But in your case, if it's your only option, that's different.

If the connector was in tact, I could have made you an extension that reversed all the wires. If you think you can de-solder it, PM me and I'll hook you up with a cable, I'll just make it a few inches longer than my little extensions and you can solder it right to the board.

If you trusted me enough (acknowledged that you have no reason to!), to sent me your main board, I'd happily solder on the cable and send it back. Gotta help each other out, right?

If you do remove the board from the Solo, be real careful with that gray accessory port ribbon cable. Several wires broke on mine and it was a royal PITA to fix, just as a result of having to completely remove it, strip back each wire and solder it back on... again with the cruddily melting solder they used. Just don't bend it back and forth much or at all. 2 or 3 times was all mine took for the wires to start breaking.
 
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Wow, holy smokes, that's a manufacturing defect if there ever was one. As XevetS said, the bottom pic has the cable installed correctly.

As for the "connector" itself, as you discovered, it's not really a connector. I suspect the purpose was simply to speed manufacturer by being able to pop in and solder all the wires at once via the housing vs. soldering in each wire separately.

The insulation stuff on the bottom of the board isn't really bonded, it's just a fairly strong adhesive that comes off mostly clean (at least it did on mine). I removed that connector thing on one of my Solos and soldered one of my cables directly. What made it challenging was A- removing the pins left when the connector broke off, and B- the solder they used in manufacturing didn't melt very well. It was probably lead-free, which tends not to melt as easily as older leaded solder. Even with a good iron and lots of heat, it just didn't seem to want to melt or stay melted.

It's doable if you have to and if you're decent as soldering though, but yea, I definitely advised Rich that it wasn't worth the effort. But in your case, if it's your only option, that's different.

If the connector was in tact, I could have made you an extension that reversed all the wires. If you think you can de-solder it, PM me and I'll hook you up with a cable, I'll just make it a few inches longer than my little extensions and you can solder it right to the board.

If you trusted me enough (acknowledged that you have no reason to!), to sent me your main board, I'd happily solder on the cable and send it back. Gotta help each other out, right?

If you do remove the board from the Solo, be real careful with that gray accessory port ribbon cable. Several wires broke on mine and it was a royal PITA to fix, just as a result of having to completely remove it, strip back each wire and solder it back on... again with the cruddily melting solder they used. Just don't bend it back and forth much or at all. 2 or 3 times was all mine took for the wires to start breaking.

Thanks for the input! I'm gonna bring home my work Iron tomorrow; Weller WSM 1; no longer available, but worth its weight in gold. It'll do upto 850 with a variety of fine tips available. From there, I will clean up the wires and solder directly thru hole. I looked at the main board pics on 3DR SOLO Mainboard – Current UAS Store and it shows direct solder without the plastic header. So I'm thinking I can have this back up tomorrow evening. Just hope i didn't trash my gimbals by putting the full Vcc to ground.
 
Use LOTS of flux, preferably liquid when working (or reworking) with lead free solders. Apply before heating,let dry. Preheat, apply flux. Then heat. preferably using hot air or indirect heat.

That or use some chip-quik heated on top of the lead-free.

It's a fine art with the lower grade lead-free stuff.
 

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