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That will not protect the solo from the ESC problem. Placebo...... or simply reduce the MOT_BAT_CURR_MAX parameter to stock setting.
That will not protect the solo from the ESC problem. Placebo...... or simply reduce the MOT_BAT_CURR_MAX parameter to stock setting.
no, MOT_BAT_CURR_MAX is based on total battery pack current (when reported by smart battery, which is much less frequently than throttle changes) The fault can happen if one motor increase throttle to quickly, getting a voltage drop, setting a limit on all four does not make sense. You would need to set max current so low, that in case three are idle, one needs to rise quickly. That would not be good at all if all four needed to speed up...... or simply reduce the MOT_BAT_CURR_MAX parameter to stock setting.
no, MOT_BAT_CURR_MAX is based on total battery pack current (when reported by smart battery, which is much less frequently than throttle changes) The fault can happen if one motor increase throttle to quickly, getting a voltage drop, setting a limit on all four does not make sense. You would need to set max current so low, that in case three are idle, one needs to rise quickly. That would not be good at all if all four needed to speed up.
I won't. The PWM maximum isn't to protect the Solo from anything. It's for the purpose of thrust scaling. Through testing, 3DR determined the motor and prop combination maxes out thrust at a PWM value of 1869 (I think that's what the number was). The rest of the throttle range from 1869 to 2000 does not produce any additional thrust. So if the throttle range went all the way to 2000, it would make the very top of the throttle stick useless. By setting the ESC saturation point to where thrust really maxes out, ArduCopter can properly scale the throttle input and output.And what about change a max pwm value for ESC ? Like in 3dr branch, it is one liner change, it should help afaik.
That mod (madhacker) does work, but it is not for the faint of heart. Although pro SMD rework folk can do it in a flash, unless you know one or are one it is not going to be an easy mod. I have done 3 PixHawk 2.0's, the first was hard, the second was a lot easier, the third was a bi$%#tch. Don't try this at home. While it can be done and provides the same (mostly) effect as moving to a Green Cube, I would strongly suggest acknowledging it as cool but GO OUT AND GET A GREEN CUBE!
I may do #4 but only after another month of recovery ;>))
Hex is not selling them directly. That's all that's changed. You need to buy it from a distributor like Jesters. And no, Jesters is not modifying cubes. Nothing has changed.
Are you reading what you just posted? It says "the factory is making the internal changes needed to meet Solo's requirements.".
The original production run of the Green Cube was the cube built from scratch with the voltage jumper set for 5v instead of 3v, and with a shiny green case. That original production run has been sold. So what they're doing now to meet demand is simply setting the internal jumper of a cube that just came off the production line to 5v, and putting a green sticker on the top. Nothing has changed.
The alternative is waiting months for a new production run just to have a pretty green case.
The stock pixhawk 2.0 cube mod as shown in this thread? Totally different hardware. The stock cube does not have a solder jumper. What you see in this thread is nothing like the Pixhawk 2.1 design.
There is no logic level converter in the stock pixhawk 2.0 that you can modify to make it do 5v per the guy who built it. You would have to do it externally. Plug making it something you plug into the port on the carrier and then plug the motorpod wires into would be best.
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