Odd behavior when in full throttle

I was flying in Stabilize and Manual. I have the speed bars at about half way. It will go faster than that. I think the fastest I've seen it is 47 mph. That's with the gimbal and camera attached. Should get a little more without the camera and gimbal but can't think of a reason why I need to.
I might get curious enough to remove the gimbal to test the high speed pitching.
Ok, now I gotta go out and test this.
 
The copter seems to "porpoise" when flying full throttle. If I let up a bit, it smooths out.

Yes I searched the forum.


I've experienced the same issue with mine. I thought maybe it was the battery not providing enough juice at full throttle but it typically starts to do it during my second flight of the day. Sent logs to 3DR and everything came back alright..... so I'm not too concerned.
 
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I have the same exact issue as well. Any way to calibrate the esc's?
 
I have the same exact issue as well. Any way to calibrate the esc's?

Mine will lose altitude fast when at full throttle. I assumed it was normal because of the pitch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Are you running at Rabbit for your speed settings? What mode are you flying with; Acro, Fly or manual?

Is the bird rising, falling or both; trying to understand your term "porpoise" clearly.

With the glider name, you obviously understand up drafts, thermals and wind shears.... I just learned about the effects of tree lines within the last year.
R-Dub, what do you mean by the effects of tree lines?
 
R-Dub, what do you mean by the effects of tree lines?
Normally it is an updraft, but I imagine there could be an issue for the inverse. In either case the wind goes vertical (up/down) rather than horizontal and is a transitional effect until the bird stabilizes or breaks into the stable/normal air..

Also the air pressure change would have some effect on the sensors, again til they normalize from the rapid change in pressure.

Like flying in gusty winds. I'm sure any instabilities seen is the effect of the wind loading onto the frame. But I believe these gust impart an instability to the sensor's data to have a momentary over/under correction. Just a theory and is likely known by the smart guys. Like anything you have to find a common ground for too much data versus too little.

Again I'm not an expert and I maybe talking out of my arse. I've read too many things related to the barometer shortcomings in general and then having corrected in software. I prefer resolving in hardware and then "tune" through software. I understand that any related errors are at an acceptable level for conditions deemed as beyond ideal conditions...you just deal with it...
 
It was suggested to me that this happened a couple of firmware releases ago and it has to do with the PID settings.
He didn't tell me which one to adjust. No, you can't adjust PID settings with the 3dr app or Solex. I've never tried it with a pix hawk FC. Just on the APM.
 
I would love to see a comparison of the pids from previous fw's. What about esc de-sync? Has anyone figured out a way to recalibrate the esc's?
 
It was suggested to me that this happened a couple of firmware releases ago and it has to do with the PID settings.
He didn't tell me which one to adjust. No, you can't adjust PID settings with the 3dr app or Solex. I've never tried it with a pix hawk FC. Just on the APM.
Don, not too long ago, a new member posted that he used Mission Planner to adjust the pid settings and got "better" flight behavior. Don't remember the details but he posted the values he used. Looking for the thread now.

Here it is: PID tuning SOLO-fixes vibrations
 
Don, not too long ago, a new member posted that he used Mission Planner to adjust the pid settings and got "better" flight behavior. Don't remember the details but he posted the values he used. Looking for the thread now.

Here it is: PID tuning SOLO-fixes vibrations
Thanks for that Maddog. I'm not going to mess with mine. I used to tweak those settings when I flew on the APM, KK2 and CC3D FCs.
I've had good success flying and don't want to get into that constant tweaking thinking I can make it better. It looks a little odd pitching its way across the sky but I can live with it.
One of the folks at Mrobotics told me about the changes that were made a couple of releases ago that seems to be causing this.
 
.As an alternative thought for what the issue could be and not to insight a panic. It would not hurt to check that your bearings are properly lubed or that they may need a change out. Also give the motor pods a once over. Focusing on the power leads, check for cold solder joints, bullet connectors are tight and inspect the leads all the way back to the main board.

This should be a common maintenance procedure in general, but is often overlooked until there is an issue. And typical mistaken as the results of a failure rather than the cause.

I am no fan of lead-free solder when applied by hand. The power leads are applied by hand....ymmv
 
.As an alternative thought for what the issue could be and not to insight a panic. It would not hurt to check that your bearings are properly lubed or that they may need a change out. Also give the motor pods a once over. Focusing on the power leads, check for cold solder joints, bullet connectors are tight and inspect the leads all the way back to the main board.

This should be a common maintenance procedure in general, but is often overlooked until there is an issue. And typical mistaken as the results of a failure rather than the cause.

I am no fan of lead-free solder when applied by hand. The power leads are applied by hand....ymmv

Rich, was meaning to post this as a new discussion but this is somewhat related, I've noticed when disassembling Solo, that the motor pod power leads and the low voltage df13 cables are often twisted/rotated around each other through solo's arms. I can see how this aids in assembly, but is there any general guidance on whether this is good practice? Or is it better practice to avoid to prevent as much as possibles cables from cross talking and inducing currents in one another.....
 
Rich, was meaning to post this as a new discussion but this is somewhat related, I've noticed when disassembling Solo, that the motor pod power leads and the low voltage df13 cables are often twisted/rotated around each other through solo's arms. I can see how this aids in assembly, but is there any general guidance on whether this is good practice? Or is it better practice to avoid to prevent as much as possibles cables from cross talking and inducing currents in one another.....
Honestly I have no clue, but would suspect it is a non issue as it seems common...on purpose or by accident. I know my practice is to twist the cables when I install the pods, otherwise your fighting to install. If you have the stock leg screws installed, you also risk getting hung up on the 2-3mm of exposed threads within those arm channels. There have been a couple of cases where the insulation got torn on the data cable while dinking with the pods.

I think this has been discussed before, braided data cable, for what reason I can't recall exactly...maybe gps related..
 
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Kind of went a little too far off topic, my apology to the OP.

From another angle. I've always felt the pitching was caused by a momentary loss of signal, a few lost packets. Since it is in FLY (Loiter) Mode its natural state is to stabilize if no stick input, "0". When your flying fast and you release the sticks the bird pitches back to hold its position where commanded with a little drift.

Are the loss of packets for controlling the bird delayed or to zero for a snap duration? If so, why does it not show at slower speeds.

As a comparable argument, in FLY Manual (Stabilized) Mode does this even appear? Its natural state is just to level off and drift when releasing the sticks, no violent maneuvering. Could this be the porpoising that was described in another thread? I know my bird looses altitude when flying into the wind. Could the bird regain altitude while there is a loss of a few control packets?

Possibly this is related to the performance settings, I have my bird set to Medium. I rarely experience the FLY Mode condition and only in obstructed areas. Also I'm well within LOS with stock antennas.

This is just digital data flying through the airwaves, stuff happens. I guess the question remains, could it be corrected if this is the source cause?
 
Just thought I'd add one tiny little tidbit of my own observations. I noticed the porpoising and lost of altitude more seriously when I had my PolarPro LED lights installed. I'm sure they mess with the aerodynamics at bit.
 

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