Wifi Mod complete
- Thread starter z3r01
- Start date
So I feel this mod is still slightly unfinished. Yes, two upgraded cards give you oodles of range (so does my fpvlr amped setup). I really want my cake an eat it. Unamped, dual cards, 8db omni. Dual cards, amped, fpvlr for max range if I need it.
RolandS888 measured the output of stock and amped cards and it seemed to be capped at 20db.
NYG and others seemed to get close with country codes etc, and one person reported a range increase with TW etc. I could never get a command output to show more than 20db.
NYG may have got more with driver mods.
There was some talk that I could not use my amped fpvlr at the same time as a modded transmitter card as the amps only took a certain max input.
My 1 card (solo) 8db omni range was 700m (2300ft) metro. My 2 card (solo and transmitter 8db omni range is 2km (6500ft).
My 1 card (solo) fpvlr amped range is 2km (6500ft) with 3 bars of signal left.
I finally got some 30db attenuators, plugged them inbetween 2 card setup and amped fpvlr. My range was 10m (33 feet)
My guess is the attenuators are only going to be relevent if the transmitter card is putting out more than 20db. If not, the attenuator is taking it to zero or minus. Amped zero is still zero.
The input range on the 2000mw sanhaus fpvlr amps is actually up to 20db.
So in theory, I should be in magic land, plug in my fpvlr now and fly to the moon.
Just concerned, don't want to blow up the amps.
Lets say we did find a way to pump up the modfied card outputs higher than 20db. Even to 30 as it looks like they should with a USA country code. Then I will need the attenuators if I want to leave the cards both in, and occasionally use amped fpvlr. I plug in the attenuators and the amped setup.
I would then have to tune the power output to xx db, for unamped, so that when I wanted to go amped, I could use the attenuators in the field, without using a laptop to drop the output db to 20.
So say I was able to bump it to 50db, knowing that with 30db attenuators, it dropped to amp'able range at 20db.
So the mysterys still are :
0) Should I just do it, plug in my amped fpvlr into my 2 card setup, and see if I get to the moon?
1) When I can put a 2nd (transmitter) high mw card in, and go from 2300ft to 6500ft with no other changes. Surely there is a higher mw output at play that no one seems to be able to meaure for certain with software or a meter. Why is it still only showing on Rolands meter as 20.
Is it because i've already for the 1st upgraded card in the solo, and now that they are a pair, they do magic?
2) Will the amped setup of 2000mw boost a 20db input more than say a 10db input?. Eg, does it amplify whats there by a factor of x, or does it take what it finds and takes to to a specific max level.
Anyway, not sure I should do 0) without making sure its outputting 20 not 30, so I've a meter on the way.
RolandS888 measured the output of stock and amped cards and it seemed to be capped at 20db.
NYG and others seemed to get close with country codes etc, and one person reported a range increase with TW etc. I could never get a command output to show more than 20db.
NYG may have got more with driver mods.
There was some talk that I could not use my amped fpvlr at the same time as a modded transmitter card as the amps only took a certain max input.
My 1 card (solo) 8db omni range was 700m (2300ft) metro. My 2 card (solo and transmitter 8db omni range is 2km (6500ft).
My 1 card (solo) fpvlr amped range is 2km (6500ft) with 3 bars of signal left.
I finally got some 30db attenuators, plugged them inbetween 2 card setup and amped fpvlr. My range was 10m (33 feet)
My guess is the attenuators are only going to be relevent if the transmitter card is putting out more than 20db. If not, the attenuator is taking it to zero or minus. Amped zero is still zero.
The input range on the 2000mw sanhaus fpvlr amps is actually up to 20db.
So in theory, I should be in magic land, plug in my fpvlr now and fly to the moon.
Just concerned, don't want to blow up the amps.
Lets say we did find a way to pump up the modfied card outputs higher than 20db. Even to 30 as it looks like they should with a USA country code. Then I will need the attenuators if I want to leave the cards both in, and occasionally use amped fpvlr. I plug in the attenuators and the amped setup.
I would then have to tune the power output to xx db, for unamped, so that when I wanted to go amped, I could use the attenuators in the field, without using a laptop to drop the output db to 20.
So say I was able to bump it to 50db, knowing that with 30db attenuators, it dropped to amp'able range at 20db.
So the mysterys still are :
0) Should I just do it, plug in my amped fpvlr into my 2 card setup, and see if I get to the moon?
1) When I can put a 2nd (transmitter) high mw card in, and go from 2300ft to 6500ft with no other changes. Surely there is a higher mw output at play that no one seems to be able to meaure for certain with software or a meter. Why is it still only showing on Rolands meter as 20.
Is it because i've already for the 1st upgraded card in the solo, and now that they are a pair, they do magic?
2) Will the amped setup of 2000mw boost a 20db input more than say a 10db input?. Eg, does it amplify whats there by a factor of x, or does it take what it finds and takes to to a specific max level.
Anyway, not sure I should do 0) without making sure its outputting 20 not 30, so I've a meter on the way.
So I've measured using the same meter as Roland. I found it to be a bit inconsistent for some reason using the supplied 30db attenuator. So I stacked another 30db attenuator on it. Measuring using 60db of attenuation - The upgraded card is putting out 23db. This is with my command output showing 20db in software.
I took a chance and with the 60db of attenuation I plugged my modded card output briefly into the amps and measured the output on the other side (even though the stipulated input max was 20db). It measured 34db!
I think the next step is trying to get it to output a measured 30 via regions or some such (if it actually makes a difference, it still could be capped somehow despite what the software readout says).
Then maybe find a way of dropping the power by about 4db, and then trying the amped modified card. - to the moon.
I don;t think NYG who seems to be the guru has been on since oct, so if anyones got any other suggestions I'm open to it.
Roland, do you have any more luck getting it to output 30db with regions etc?
I took a chance and with the 60db of attenuation I plugged my modded card output briefly into the amps and measured the output on the other side (even though the stipulated input max was 20db). It measured 34db!
I think the next step is trying to get it to output a measured 30 via regions or some such (if it actually makes a difference, it still could be capped somehow despite what the software readout says).
Then maybe find a way of dropping the power by about 4db, and then trying the amped modified card. - to the moon.
I don;t think NYG who seems to be the guru has been on since oct, so if anyones got any other suggestions I'm open to it.
Roland, do you have any more luck getting it to output 30db with regions etc?
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Timmy, I havent made any more moves on this.
Im waiting for someone who is fluent in the code to post how to command the output to a higher level.
I dont think there is a lot of benefit in the wifi card change unless you can up the output to a level that is above the stock cards. I have tested both scenarios, the MikroTik cards run way hotter and sit closer to the main board in the copter than the stock wifi card. I have seen a problem with this but I guess time will tell if its more than just mine.
I am running a Mikro card in the controller and a stock card in Solo and have good range and a solid connection, so for now that is the way it is going to stay.
For me Solo is not a long range craft, I dont require it to be. I have LR RC quads that will go far beyond Solos range, so range for me is not what I seek.
For me, I want Solo to be an ultra stable and smooth gopro platform first and foremost, thats why I am focussing on motor and prop issues at the moment.
Im waiting for someone who is fluent in the code to post how to command the output to a higher level.
I dont think there is a lot of benefit in the wifi card change unless you can up the output to a level that is above the stock cards. I have tested both scenarios, the MikroTik cards run way hotter and sit closer to the main board in the copter than the stock wifi card. I have seen a problem with this but I guess time will tell if its more than just mine.
I am running a Mikro card in the controller and a stock card in Solo and have good range and a solid connection, so for now that is the way it is going to stay.
For me Solo is not a long range craft, I dont require it to be. I have LR RC quads that will go far beyond Solos range, so range for me is not what I seek.
For me, I want Solo to be an ultra stable and smooth gopro platform first and foremost, thats why I am focussing on motor and prop issues at the moment.
Well. I've made some progress.
I took little solo out this morning with no wind, and hit 2.5kms, 8200ft, 1.5miles with 3-4 bars of signal left. I started with 80% battery (messing around with the new gopro controls in flight) and landed with 30% (no wind makes huge difference).
I did this by lowering the cards output to 17db (from 22db), and then using my amped fpvlr.
This command
cat /sys/kernel/debug/ieee80211/phy0/power
from @NYG earlier posts, does actually seem to correlate to output. So default in USA is 30
and this command
iw phy0 set txpower fixed <value>
actually does change the output I can see it in realtime on my meter.
So I used iw phy0 set txpower fixed 2300 to drop the power output to 17db.
It does not keep that setting in that way on a controller reboot. So I had to set using a laptop, disconnect my ssh session, and go fly without rebooting the controller.
The measured output from the antenna terminal were : 22db unamped with the r11e card. And 33db on the antenna side of the amps!
Some other numbers. Setting 2300 (23db) using the command, resulted in a radio terminal (no antenna) measurement of 17db. Changing the setting on the meter to mw (with I recall is what you should measure before antennas) is 52mw.
Setting to 2800 (28db) gave me 22db measured which is 150mw.
The command seems to have an effective limitation (as NYG mentioned) of 28. If I set 29 or 30, or 31 etc. The output from cat /sys/kernel/debug/ieee80211/phy0/power is still no more than 30. If I set a lower number, the output from that command is less.
So. I either find a way to use that command to survive a reboot to lower the output, or I now know I would need a fixed 5db attenuator (if I can find one), to use the amped setup on the r11e card.
The potential is still there to maybe somehow add more power. Once the solo gets upgraded motor and battery options, maybe its worthwhile. Its still minimally worthwhile at the moment or for anyone flying a bagel to a friends place one way or something.
I rememberd as well, I have a FLIR one I lent a friend. I can get it back, and use it to watch the temperature of the card whilst changing power whilst its in the case to watch for heat issues. (there would be others as well maybe like interferance).
Even this morning though, with no wind, if I had started with 100% battery, I'd still be landing with 50% which is headroom to explore the other side of the lake from 2kms away. Nice!
I shot a nice return to home video in the morning light. My internet connection is crap though to upload it. Maybe I'll hyperlapse it, I recall a few weeks ago MS released it for OSX.
I took little solo out this morning with no wind, and hit 2.5kms, 8200ft, 1.5miles with 3-4 bars of signal left. I started with 80% battery (messing around with the new gopro controls in flight) and landed with 30% (no wind makes huge difference).
I did this by lowering the cards output to 17db (from 22db), and then using my amped fpvlr.
This command
cat /sys/kernel/debug/ieee80211/phy0/power
from @NYG earlier posts, does actually seem to correlate to output. So default in USA is 30
and this command
iw phy0 set txpower fixed <value>
actually does change the output I can see it in realtime on my meter.
So I used iw phy0 set txpower fixed 2300 to drop the power output to 17db.
It does not keep that setting in that way on a controller reboot. So I had to set using a laptop, disconnect my ssh session, and go fly without rebooting the controller.
The measured output from the antenna terminal were : 22db unamped with the r11e card. And 33db on the antenna side of the amps!
Some other numbers. Setting 2300 (23db) using the command, resulted in a radio terminal (no antenna) measurement of 17db. Changing the setting on the meter to mw (with I recall is what you should measure before antennas) is 52mw.
Setting to 2800 (28db) gave me 22db measured which is 150mw.
The command seems to have an effective limitation (as NYG mentioned) of 28. If I set 29 or 30, or 31 etc. The output from cat /sys/kernel/debug/ieee80211/phy0/power is still no more than 30. If I set a lower number, the output from that command is less.
So. I either find a way to use that command to survive a reboot to lower the output, or I now know I would need a fixed 5db attenuator (if I can find one), to use the amped setup on the r11e card.
The potential is still there to maybe somehow add more power. Once the solo gets upgraded motor and battery options, maybe its worthwhile. Its still minimally worthwhile at the moment or for anyone flying a bagel to a friends place one way or something.
I rememberd as well, I have a FLIR one I lent a friend. I can get it back, and use it to watch the temperature of the card whilst changing power whilst its in the case to watch for heat issues. (there would be others as well maybe like interferance).
Even this morning though, with no wind, if I had started with 100% battery, I'd still be landing with 50% which is headroom to explore the other side of the lake from 2kms away. Nice!
I shot a nice return to home video in the morning light. My internet connection is crap though to upload it. Maybe I'll hyperlapse it, I recall a few weeks ago MS released it for OSX.
there a way to auto execute a command at startup, I don't know how to do it.
I have been trying to get channel 12 or 13 to work with "Reghack" but it's a no go, have to do a factory reset everytime i use it,
your saying that "cat /sys/kernel/debug/ieee80211/phy0/power" works to adjust power level?
How would i run that?
I have been trying to get channel 12 or 13 to work with "Reghack" but it's a no go, have to do a factory reset everytime i use it,
your saying that "cat /sys/kernel/debug/ieee80211/phy0/power" works to adjust power level?
How would i run that?
Hi Steve, cat power (ha ha) will confirm the result of your setting (and that higher than 28 seems ineffective)
iw phy0 set txpower fixed 2800
will up your power probably even if you are in a 20db region
Which version of reghack? I found a source for .mips, .ppc, x86/x64 binaries (is the solo mips? )but not one that seems to execute when copied on and run (even with chmod)
It's execute & after reboot, controller finds Solo, but no feed from GoPro & WiFi not available via PC/win , But my mobile is setup for Wifi Ch.13 "Havn't tested it yet" can't find any Tx @ 13 to test.
iw phy0 set txpower fixed, should set both cards?
iw phy0 set txpower fixed, should set both cards?
It's probably only going to set the card of the device your are ssh'd into (controller or solo). I've only done controller so far. If I could get more power I'd feel more comfortable cooking the controller than the bird in the air. Having said that, so far all that command lets you do is reduce it for use with external amps with max input levels less than your radio output.
Not bump it up further than the 30 a Usa region gives you...
So far...
Not bump it up further than the 30 a Usa region gives you...
So far...
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Reading through this thread I just realized I may have bought the wrong wifi cards.
But the specifications say that this card will output 800mW , how is that lower power as the High Power version at Roc Noc also puts out 800mW
Also here is the chipset for the one I ordered. AR9582-AR1A-R
I'm worried I should get the chipset AR9580 or can anyone confirm that the one's I ordered work just as well?
But the specifications say that this card will output 800mW , how is that lower power as the High Power version at Roc Noc also puts out 800mW
Also here is the chipset for the one I ordered. AR9582-AR1A-R
I'm worried I should get the chipset AR9580 or can anyone confirm that the one's I ordered work just as well?
R11e-2HnD Mikrotik 802.11b/g/n High Power MiniPCIe card - 800mw output Atheros AR9580 chipset - New! :: miniPCI/miniPCIe radios :: ICD Group, Inc
No problems.
They did have a card with a larger heatsink & it had more power, but ether way, no one has posted a way to access the TX power on these cards yet.
Not that it can't be done, i'm sure it can, just not the right person tried to figure it out yet.
No problems.
They did have a card with a larger heatsink & it had more power, but ether way, no one has posted a way to access the TX power on these cards yet.
Not that it can't be done, i'm sure it can, just not the right person tried to figure it out yet.
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Thanks, and your right, they have a 1W version that is bigger, so the only difference between the one I bought and the one this thread talks about is the chipset version.
Mine: AR9582-AR1A-R
What this thread recommended: AR9580
I will just wait for the ones I ordered and test them out.
Mine: AR9582-AR1A-R
What this thread recommended: AR9580
I will just wait for the ones I ordered and test them out.
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I did a entire research on these cards from vendor etc. You name it, and posted some info a while back, I can't really remember all the specifics.
You have two version of the 800mw; the AR9580 and the AR9582-AR1A-R.
It seems like the AR9580 is very hard to come by in the States here I should say, even sellers that claim they have the AR9580 have been sending the AR9582-AR1A-R to their customers, claiming they are the same chipsets.
I have tried the AR9582-AR1A-R and got good results but note! I also did software and antenna(TP link) modding.
The biggest differences I found between the two cards is the MIMO and the data speed.
The AR9580 have a the theoretical speed of 460Mbps and the MIMO is 3:3x3,
While the AR9582-AR1A-R theoretical speed is still UNKNOWN to me and the MIMO is 2:2x2.
You can get the AR9580 in 1000mw but you would of to do a lot of modding because the antenna connectors are different and it have a huge heat sink, also considering it running at 1000mw, I think that would take toll on your battery life.
Good luck.
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Eagle1 thanks for the info! I figured I wasn't the only one who got this version. I also am going to be using aftermarket antennas. Alfa 7 dBi omnidirectional I believe. I just ordered them today, and I will be looking into a few config changes that others have said made a significant difference. I am not really going for distance, I just want a solid link that doesn't RTL so often at short to medium distances. I will post my findings and set up when I get my wifi cards and alfa antennas.
I bought mine from Amazon. They had it for a while. Also bought a second one from newegg.com.
I never installed one into solo as I didn't have the patients to take it apart. I'm happy with just the upgrade in the controller.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I never installed one into solo as I didn't have the patients to take it apart. I'm happy with just the upgrade in the controller.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hey hey !
got my mikro tik cards... r11e-2hnd (9582 chip)... i read somewhere that... ''to extract'' all potential of those... you have to ''unlock'' them, and ''set them up to 30db'' ...
my question is : how do i do that ?? software ? with tablet ? android? pc? where do i put the card ?? in regular pc in a slot ?? please help !!!!
got my mikro tik cards... r11e-2hnd (9582 chip)... i read somewhere that... ''to extract'' all potential of those... you have to ''unlock'' them, and ''set them up to 30db'' ...
my question is : how do i do that ?? software ? with tablet ? android? pc? where do i put the card ?? in regular pc in a slot ?? please help !!!!
Sorry for what might be an obvious question but I can't figure out what "Before host file, after host file" might mean? The rest is easy of course.
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