Motors Swapped to T-Motor 2216-12 800kV

[RichWest]

I said motor squeal, but it was more like the ESCs trying to adjust or maintain rotation to the larger air foil of the props. Either way it didn't sound good and yes they were warmer after that brief flight at 75' ASL. Last thing I want is to pop the ESCs.

@Texzin that eCalc link was interesting, thanks for the share.

 

[SPP]

Here for added confidence in T-Motor 800kv

T-Motor is smooth and no vibrations, so quiet too
Solo original props aint bad at all
Solo chassis is rigid...nice

Phantom 3 Adv chassis is weak
Phantom 4 chassis is more rigid than P3A

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[Wrangler]

Here for added confidence in T-Motor 800kv

T-Motor is smooth and no vibrations, so quiet too
Solo original props aint bad at all
Solo chassis is rigid...nice

Phantom 3 Adv chassis is weak
Phantom 4 chassis is more rigid than P3A

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Solo is for sure the best form all of them DJI p stuffs for upgrading motors as we can see, thanks for the video thinking of doing the same at some stage.

 

[SPP]

Wrangler,
The P3 Adv motor I got is supposedly the latest type.
I think the motor itself is not very very balanced, as u can see the wobble at idle is bad.

The chassis/frame of the P3 is my worry and no wonder there are reports of that chassis/frame cracking near the motors.
Stress cracks are here again
I think I need to run 1 layer of carbon fiber to stiffen it, but me not handy with lamination of that sort
Do an X running lamination.

Solo original cheapo motor is high bearing noise, but it doesn't shake.
Thypoon H motors not too quiet too, I just got the H a few days ago.
Shake wise me not yet video it, as my plywood base drone anchor test platform was not set up for H size, the camera got stuck
at the wooden block...LOL.

Anyway.... T-Motor is a nice choice... thanks again to Roland8888
I have a KDE set of motor which is supposedly for P3, but me lazy to swap them as it is not as efficient as it claimed to be.

.

 

[Jubalr]

I just tried out the APC 1145 and my motors were squealing. At a 6' hover I was drawing close to 20A. Not flying these anymore. Stuck on my APC 1045 and pulling about 17A in same hover and no motor squeal.

Past the motor noise, the 1145's were quiet props.... I've got three pair....:O

T-Motors MT2216-12 800kv

With the T-motors. I actually find that the APC 11x4.5 are not only quieter, but draw less power in forward flight. Testing shows that in a hover they are about equal. However in forward flight of about 10mph, the APC draw 1-1.5a less than the stock 3DR. Here are a couple of videos showing the noise difference and wattage drawn in forward flight. The 11s are also more stable in flight as is typical of going to a larger prop and slowing the motor slightly. In stabilize mode, the 11s will also allow the Solo to hover at 1/2 stick where it should, whereas the stock will hover close to 3/4 stick. YMMV

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[PdxSteve]

Just listening to the frequency difference, you can hear the APC's are spinning a bit slower which would lower their noise frequency a few KHz. Makes sense that slower spinning props putting out the same(ish) thrust would be a bit quieter and draw less power.

@Jubalr you're on 800kv or 900?

 

[Jubalr]

Just listening to the frequency difference, you can hear the APC's are spinning a bit slower which would lower their noise frequency a few KHz. Makes sense that slower spinning props putting out the same(ish) thrust would be a bit quieter and draw less power.

@Jubalr you're on 800kv or 900?

I'm on the 800s. I was looking to slow the motors a little and run a slightly larger prop. If you remember my post of 21min flight with no gimbal, the current draw was down to 10-12a. I really like this combination for everything but acro.

 

[RichWest]

Since you guys made a convincing case, I went out and tried again. Still hearing the ESC's twearking, but managed to trust the force and fly it anyway. Amps were lower overall, hovered at 35' and spun a yaw or two. Seems stable with little if any drift once everything settled in. Very mild wind today. The video results from the test flight looked good, only saw a vertical vibe when descending. Yaw was actually smoother in the video.

I did replace the CCW prop's nuts and cleaned further the prop hub from the reaming processing, as I had a tip offset of about 3/16" prior to this flight.

The additional flight time in forward flight or high altitude are compelling reason to use. I have both opportunities this fall/winter. The vertical lift was interesting as well, look forward to a complete shake down run here in the next week.

Sorry Jublar, I was going to donate them to you, you're not getting these now....

I'm still wonder why I was seeing high amps on my initial flight.... And @pyrate the motors were warmer after the flight, can we assume the slower rpm is the reason?

 

[Jubalr]

Since you guys made a convincing case, I went out and tried again. Still hearing the ESC's twearking, but managed to trust the force and fly it anyway. Amps were lower overall, hovered at 35' and spun a yaw or two. Seems stable with little if any drift once everything settled in. Very mild wind today. The video results from the test flight looked good, only saw a vertical vibe when descending. Yaw was actually smoother in the video.

I did replace the CCW prop's nuts and cleaned further the prop hub from the reaming processing, as I had a tip offset of about 3/16" prior to this flight.

The additional flight time in forward flight or high altitude are compelling reason to use. I have both opportunities this fall/winter. The vertical lift was interesting as well, look forward to a complete shake down run here in the next week.

Sorry Jublar, I was going to donate them to you, you're not getting these now....

I'm still wonder why I was seeing high amps on my initial flight.... And @pyrate the motors were warmer after the flight, can we assume the slower rpm is the reason?

Damn Rich, And I almost offered to take them off your hands so they wouldn't clutter up your work area.
Forgot to mention that when running either type of props, my motors run cooler than the stock motors. Today was in the low 90s and running full battery they were barely warm to the touch. Are yours running hotter than just warm?

 

[RichWest]

Are yours running hotter than just warm?

With the 1045 they are just warm after a full flight, but then I'm moving around all over the place. The test today was just hovering, neighborhood and all, and the 1145's were warmer after a 4 minute flight. It's all subjective on my part, but it is a part of my post flight systems check, I do have ample reference to compare ambient and motor temps... Again a true flight would be ideal to say one way or another. Was just commenting to Tim since we both see excessive heat here in Texas. 90 would be a sweater day for us....

 

[DattaGroover]

Last thing I want is to pop the ESCs.

That would not end well.

 

[DattaGroover]

I did replace the CCW prop's nuts and cleaned further the prop hub from the reaming processing, as I had a tip offset of about 3/16" prior to this flight.

So, finally getting started on my 800kv T-motors and 11x4.5 APC props, that @Jubalr suggested, and I have a dumb question.

I know there are more parts that came with them than I need. I know the threaded hub goes on end of the adapter's threaded shaft. I know that the plastic adapter goes inside the prop so it fits snug. From the photos I've seen, I assume the beveled washer goes between the hub and the prop. Where does the nut go?

Can you point me to a diagram that shows how it all comes together?

 

[RichWest]

The prop adapter that came with the T-Motors MT2216-12 are not used, as it is the wrong shaft diameter for either the Solo props or the after market APC MR1145ST or MR1045ST. To fit any of these props you'll need the T-Motors PA-029 and PA-030, which are threaded for 6mm nuts. The whole setup is to allow the props to be self tightening.

If you ream the prop hub out to 8mm you wont need the APC prop spacer ring that you mentioned. See my prior post on reaming the props, back a page or two in this thread, it has a video showing the process and how everything fits together once completed. I think it was Oscar Nominated for best silent instructional video....

 

[DattaGroover]

The prop adapter that came with the T-Motors MT2216-12 are not used, as it is the wrong shaft diameter for either the Solo props or the after market APC MR1145ST or MR1045ST. To fit any of these props you'll need the T-Motors PA-029 and PA-030, which are threaded for 6mm nuts. The whole setup is to allow the props to be self tightening.

If you ream the prop hub out to 8mm you wont need the APC prop spacer ring that you mentioned. See my prior post on reaming the props, back a page or two in this thread, it has a video showing the process and how everything fits together once completed. I think it was Oscar Nominated for best silent instructional video....

Ah, thanks. I will watch the award winning video.
. . . but by making the prop center conical (from the ream) instead of cylindrical, wouldn't that make the connection less stable? Or does that not matter once it's all tightened down?

 

[RichWest]

Today was in the low 90s and running full battery they were barely warm to the touch. Are yours running hotter than just warm?

I did get a short flight in yesterday, again hovering for about 12 minutes before a storm hit. I was about 175' AGL and the motors were just warm, so it appears to be all good.

 

[DattaGroover]

To fit any of these props you'll need the T-Motors PA-029 and PA-030, which are threaded for 6mm nuts. The whole setup is to allow the props to be self tightening.

Would these also work (in CW and CCW), or is it better to go with the exact ones you mentioned?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZNJKZA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[DattaGroover]

I did get a short flight in yesterday, again hovering for about 12 minutes before a storm hit. I was about 175' AGL and the motors were just warm, so it appears to be all good.

Nice! I like the drama of the sky before a storm hits.

 

[RichWest]

Ah, thanks. I will watch the award winning video.
. . . but by making the prop center conical (from the ream) instead of cylindrical, wouldn't that make the connection less stable? Or does that not matter once it's all tightened down?

Watch the video, not award winning yet, just nominated.... You are just enlarging the prop hole to 8mm, no coning is involved.

Would these also work (in CW and CCW), or is it better to go with the exact ones you mentioned?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZNJKZA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No they are 5mm shafts, you need the 6mm....PA029 and PA030 only....

 

[DattaGroover]

Watch the video, not award winning yet, just nominated.... You are just enlarging the prop hole to 8mm, no coning is involved.

No they are 5mm shafts, you need the 6mm....PA029 and PA030 only....

Pardon me being thick, but don't reamers by nature make it conical? Or is that just too slight to matter?

I assume what you describe is much better than using a smaller shaft and the inserts that came with the props.

 

[DattaGroover]

The prop adapter that came with the T-Motors MT2216-12 are not used, as it is the wrong shaft diameter for either the Solo props or the after market APC MR1145ST or MR1045ST. To fit any of these props you'll need the T-Motors PA-029 and PA-030, which are threaded for 6mm nuts. The whole setup is to allow the props to be self tightening.

If you ream the prop hub out to 8mm you wont need the APC prop spacer ring that you mentioned. See my prior post on reaming the props, back a page or two in this thread, it has a video showing the process and how everything fits together once completed. I think it was Oscar Nominated for best silent instructional video....

Okay, one more question, and I swear I'll shut up (for now).
Do you have a good US source for these? I tried Amazon and GetFPV.com, but the other dealers I see are in Hong Kong.