Tentative Gimbal Success

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Finally got to fly today after straightening out the gimbal wiring mix-up. Much better than last time, when the gimbal flopped around and spazzed-out.

Installed the 1.3.0 upgrade before I flew. Just like the 1.2.0 upgrade, I got the "Upgrade Complete-Press 'A' to Continue" screen and a totally frozen controller. Unplugged and re-plugged the battery the same as before and off I went. When did that upgrade (Android) come out, anyway?

I just stuck to basic control testing and it all seemed to go well. I hadn't even studied up on how to do the Smart shots yet; I just wanted to see if the gimbal needed to be returned or not.

The sun was directly overhead and I couldn't see my display at all, so I kept it low and slow, shooting a couple of movies on one flight and taking some stills on a second. I also forgot the sunshade for the GoPro (Hero4 Silver).

The video resolution was set at 4K with the maximum frame-rate of 15/sec. This makes a video that looks not quite choppy, but distinctly "off" when there is any directional or rotational motion. I got much better results two weeks ago with lower-res and higher frame rate....

I'm stoked on one hand, but on the other realize I don't have much of a clue yet what I'm doing.

Very relieved the gimbal seems to be functioning. After all, that could have been another car payment. :)
 
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I also have the 4 silver and you can forget about 4K/15fps- it just looks like crap.
2.7K/30 is better, but my video still looks better at 1080/60fps.

If you want to shoot 4K you will need a 4 black because the higher frame rates are a must.
 
I also have the 4 silver and you can forget about 4K/15fps- it just looks like crap.
2.7K/30 is better, but my video still looks better at 1080/60fps.

If you want to shoot 4K you will need a 4 black because the higher frame rates are a must.
You go that right.

When I bought my H4S, I had never even heard of the Solo.

I chose the Silver mainly because of the built-in LCD. I don't regret that choice. I still think the detail of my first flight vids that where 1080 / 57fps (?) is stunning enough. I don't now if I have a monitor capable of displaying 4K anyhow.

I need to get some Loc-Tite for those balancing weights. Placing/removing that foam block before/after flights loosens them up in no time.
 
Be careful about mentioning flying without studying up on EVERYTHING you can Including manual, the forum and studying lipo batteries. If you don't do all of these things you will get blasted in this forum I found out. Just a heads up.

Maddog is correct. Higher frame rates = smoother motion. Even 30fps didn't look that good to my eye and the option to have slow motion is good so I stick with 60fps. I have the hero 3+ black so I'm stuck at 1080p for now. That being said. A higher frame rate also means that the shutter speed will be set to double the frame rate so it will be a darker exposure. Outside in the sun this ins't a problem, but if you were flying at dusk and weren't out to catch the sunset or sky but what's happening on the ground it could benefit switching to 30fps which will make the shutter speed go to 1/60 instead of 60fps with a shutter speed of 1/120. As long as you weren't moving too fast it will still look ok. What I hate about my 3+ black is I can't set a constant ISO. I don't like the range setting and having it flip back and forth between 100 and 400.
 
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Finally got to fly today after straightening out the gimbal wiring mix-up. Much better than last time, when the gimbal flopped around and spazzed-out.

Installed the 1.3.0 upgrade before I flew. Just like the 1.2.0 upgrade, I got the "Upgrade Complete-Press 'A' to Continue" screen and a totally frozen controller. Unplugged and re-plugged the battery the same as before and off I went. When did that upgrade (Android) come out, anyway?

I just stuck to basic control testing and it all seemed to go well. I hadn't even studied up on how to do the Smart shots yet; I just wanted to see if the gimbal needed to be returned or not.

The sun was directly overhead and I couldn't see my display at all, so I kept it low and slow, shooting a couple of movies on one flight and taking some stills on a second. I also forgot the sunshade for the GoPro (Hero4 Silver).

The video resolution was set at 4K with the maximum frame-rate of 15/sec. This makes a video that looks not quite choppy, but distinctly "off" when there is any directional or rotational motion. I got much better results two weeks ago with lower-res and higher frame rate....

I'm stoked on one hand, but on the other realize I don't have much of a clue yet what I'm doing.

Very relieved the gimbal seems to be functioning. After all, that could have been another car payment. :)
Congrats on the Gimbal success Squire! For most aerial filming, you can shoot at 2.7k then render down to 1080 for posting and still get good results. I prefer ProTune on and GoPro color.

Fly Safe..
Jubal
 
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Also shooting 2.7k will allow you to crop or "zoom in" to 1080p, but that might make jello more apparent. It would lessen the fisheye distortion though. I haven't tried it yet, but in theory, it can be done with out losing detail if you planned on making the rest of your video 1080p. i'm not sure how well this works on a gopro, but with something like a BMCC or Red people do it all the time.
 
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You are correct on the update having the controller freeze, it was brought to 3DR's attention back after update one and continues to be that way, I now expect it and as soon as it says press A, I pull the battery plug and reboot. No issues for the first time except the controller freeze since update one for me. I have three SOLO's and updated them all in less than 30 minutes this time.
 
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Also shooting 2.7k will allow you to crop or "zoom in" to 1080p, but that might make jello more apparent. It would lessen the fisheye distortion though. I haven't tried it yet, but in theory, it can be done with out losing detail if you planned on making the rest of your video 1080p. i'm not sure how well this works on a gopro, but with something like a BMCC or Red people do it all the time.
I use ProDrenalin to remove fisheye and stabilize- it works well for me.
 
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The input has been awesome and well received.

I'm wondering if the Hero 4 Black would even be sufficient. Isn't it's max res 4K/30fps?

On a bright day with the sun high, could the rotors produce a bit of distortional shadow at various angles even at those settings?
 
Yeah, but you'll get that no matter your settings. If your prop is between the sun and the lens its going to happen. A sun shade or lens hood is pretty much the only way to get rid of it, but it's hard to have an effective one for a super wide angle lens.
 
Yeah, but you'll get that no matter your settings. If your prop is between the sun and the lens its going to happen. A sun shade or lens hood is pretty much the only way to get rid of it, but it's hard to have an effective one for a super wide angle lens.
Alright then. That's about it for the photographic basics w/ the H4S. I'll soldier on with the Silver for now.

From here on its flight planning and control.

Jiminy Cricket ever on the shoulder....wanna live to be 103, etc.
 
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The input has been awesome and well received.

I'm wondering if the Hero 4 Black would even be sufficient. Isn't it's max res 4K/30fps?

On a bright day with the sun high, could the rotors produce a bit of distortional shadow at various angles even at those settings?
True- 4K/30fps max. A neutral density (ND) filter will take care of rotor shadows.

I have a 6 pak of PolarPro filters I got on Amazon for $99. They also have a 3 pak for $49.

Filters are a must for aerial photography.
 
There's a bit of telepathy..... I'd been thinking about filters a while back, if only for lens protection. A request has been sent to the Procurement Office. Perhaps by 2018..... :)

No seriously, #1 on the Amazon wish list now, thanks.
 
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There's a bit of telepathy..... I'd been thinking about filters a while back, if only for lens protection. A request has been sent to the Procurement Office. Perhaps by 2018..... :)

No seriously, #1 on the Amazon wish list now, thanks.
You bet- I'm great at spending other people's money!:)
 
I also have the 4 silver and you can forget about 4K/15fps- it just looks like crap.
2.7K/30 is better, but my video still looks better at 1080/60fps.

If you want to shoot 4K you will need a 4 black because the higher frame rates are a must.

Dog,

That's what I shoot at all the time, 1080p/60. Still need to get some lens filter though to play around with.

Cheers
 
Alright then. That's about it for the photographic basics w/ the H4S. I'll soldier on with the Silver for now.

From here on its flight planning and control.

Jiminy Cricket ever on the shoulder....wanna live to be 103, etc.

I heard somewhere that the GoPro Black was on sale for $399, the same price I paid for my GP Hero4 Silver at BB. Dang the luck... ;)

Cheers
 
Does the ND actually eliminate or just reduce them? Maybe the construction of the ND is also acting as a lens hood or maybe like a polarizer? I use ND on my dslrs for certain situations but something blocking the sun from the lens looks the same. Of course nothing is moving quite as fast as a prop. Mine are cheap $80 variables though. Interesting...
 
Does the ND actually eliminate or just reduce them? Maybe the construction of the ND is also acting as a lens hood or maybe like a polarizer? I use ND on my dslrs for certain situations but something blocking the sun from the lens looks the same. Of course nothing is moving quite as fast as a prop. Mine are cheap $80 variables though. Interesting...
Generally it will eliminate them totally. It has to do with slowing down the shutter by reducing the light hitting the CMOS?

I'm no expert- just trying to repeat what I've been told.
 
Does the ND actually eliminate or just reduce them? Maybe the construction of the ND is also acting as a lens hood or maybe like a polarizer? I use ND on my dslrs for certain situations but something blocking the sun from the lens looks the same. Of course nothing is moving quite as fast as a prop. Mine are cheap $80 variables though. Interesting...

Same here on my Nikon DSLR's, I use CP's, ND's and other filters depending on location and subject. Interesting for sure. Never owned a GoPro prior to owning a Solo and definitely NOT a aerial video expert for all means. I read and learn like yourself, what filters for Solo/GP and just what does the CP's, ND's accomplish, and why. I head the word of all aerial masters...

Cheers
 
I think gopro always does the 180 degree rule and keeps the shutter speed double the frame rate and uses ISO for exposure comp. Now I will need to look into this. Haha. My only experience is with hero 3+ black so I'm not sure about hero 4.

Also slowing down shutter speed would allow more light in and exaggerate the effect I'd think. Ow. Brain. Hurts.
 
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