Maiden voyage with the rDub gimble damper mod
- Thread starter pious_greek
- Start date
Wow, looks like you pulled it off nicely. Four? Thanks for the share.
Still using the stock pods and props?
I feel hip now, finally got a street name...rDub...whoop-whoop!
Still using the stock pods and props?
I feel hip now, finally got a street name...rDub...whoop-whoop!
Yup, four. Pretty happy with the run. Hopefully I'll get some more time in tomorrow between rains...
I'm using the 900kv T-motors with stock props.
Props are balanced, but haven't taken the time to balance the motors yet. I'll probably try to switch out the gimble data cable for something with a little more give. Those are probably the next two items on the to do list. Then make some time to address @VCD 's smart battery testing....
I'm using the 900kv T-motors with stock props.
Props are balanced, but haven't taken the time to balance the motors yet. I'll probably try to switch out the gimble data cable for something with a little more give. Those are probably the next two items on the to do list. Then make some time to address @VCD 's smart battery testing....
I have he TBS 900kvs
there was not enough vibration in the motors to even correct with normal bell balancing methods
there was not enough vibration in the motors to even correct with normal bell balancing methods
Thanks for sharing this Rich. I've still got a little more tweaking to do, but I've been really impressed. Since you've got a good eye for the vibes, let know what you think...
Run 2, 15-20mph winds between rains...
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I think we had billion mile an hour winds most of today, can't get any flying in since forever...
Considering the light levels, looked really good, was expecting more motion blur. Were you still using the ND4?
If you are using the blue foam and it was still around 56F, the results are better than expected. Warmer weather will improve your results further.
That yaw/pan vibration is still there, nothing stab software could not handle. The stability is there for most other maneuvers, solid on the stationary shots. Either way, that's somewhere in your HDMI cable, if your interested in finding it.... The back end of the gimbal is not getting complete free movement. You can compare it is so by flying right and left...as the gimbal will pitch to clear or into whatever is hitting the hdmi cable.
Appreciate you asking, interesting to see your results.
Considering the light levels, looked really good, was expecting more motion blur. Were you still using the ND4?
If you are using the blue foam and it was still around 56F, the results are better than expected. Warmer weather will improve your results further.
That yaw/pan vibration is still there, nothing stab software could not handle. The stability is there for most other maneuvers, solid on the stationary shots. Either way, that's somewhere in your HDMI cable, if your interested in finding it.... The back end of the gimbal is not getting complete free movement. You can compare it is so by flying right and left...as the gimbal will pitch to clear or into whatever is hitting the hdmi cable.
Appreciate you asking, interesting to see your results.
No filter, just a clear protective lens, but had protunes on. I had the ISO set to 400, probably too low for such an overcast day. Temperature was mid-50s.
I was wondering about the HDMI cable... I've got the relish3d flat cable installed but it does protrude quite a bit more than the 90 degree stock cable, so i wonder if that's potentially catching something... I'll have to explore that a bit. Thanks for the input.
I was wondering about the HDMI cable... I've got the relish3d flat cable installed but it does protrude quite a bit more than the 90 degree stock cable, so i wonder if that's potentially catching something... I'll have to explore that a bit. Thanks for the input.
Not that you're asking, but.... The clearance to the PH cube is less than you think... The R3D ribbon was a great solution, but the limited space within the frame is the problem with this solution.
fwiw, the stock hdmi cable works fine, I've yet to see one fit better. You can form it, using heat, to essentially float it around the gimbal. I tried to buy some stock hdmi cables from 3DR, was going to make a forming jig...they weren't selling any. You don't happen to have a few extras in the "junk" box?
HDMI cables are sparse, but I'll take a look tonight... if so it's yours.
Do you need any custom DF13 cables?
Any chance you've attempted to work frozen blue foam on a lathe? I've read you can mill it at high RPM ~15k, with a sharp multi flute bit, but the dust fibers are probably dangerous. They say it freezes hard as wood, but I'm afraid a lathe would still deform it as it cuts.
Do you need any custom DF13 cables?
Any chance you've attempted to work frozen blue foam on a lathe? I've read you can mill it at high RPM ~15k, with a sharp multi flute bit, but the dust fibers are probably dangerous. They say it freezes hard as wood, but I'm afraid a lathe would still deform it as it cuts.
If you have an extra hdmi cable, I was going to offer to form it for you....I do have one extra cable, but I use it for my testing rig. So I'm covered, thanks for the offer.
I have all of Solo's connectors ready to go, just haven't sourced a wire I like yet....I don't buy chinese unbranded crap. I did find some 3M silicon ribbon cable, but the OAL and price was more than I was interested in having... I have several vintages of computers I need to rummage through, maybe I'll get lucky.
I have frozen confor material and you are correct, just like wood. Working time is about a minute in my heated shop, but I'd imagine less on a spinning type machine mixing with the ambient air. So no I have not tried it on a lathe. Problem with the material is that it gets "stickie" when it warms, tears rather than cuts. Actual the fibered material is relatively heavy, so it does not float around as expected....ymmv.
Like I've said before, my interest in sharing the mod was not that it was "the" solution. I'd hoped you or others would take what I've shared to a better solution. I'm older, so I tend to fall back to older tools and ideas. Which works well, but is far from being "the" solution with today's materials and tech. Besides, I enjoy piddling.
A lot to think about. It's a tough problem, especially if you rule out redesigning a mount and relocating the gimbal. Your left working within the existing layout, dimensions and potential movements of the gimbal. The space restrictions within the gimbal plate and solos body further constrain the potential solution set. You're pretty much left working with a damper the size and volume of the existing dampers.
I really think you nailed it or got damn close. Beyond that it's fine tuning. I cant find any DIY recipes for memory foam, it would seem ideal to be able to just pour a mixture into the dampers and let it set up properly. Beyond that, it sure would be nice to be able to cut a proper sphere, or a sphere with a cylinder on each pole to custom fit the dampers...
I'm not sure what it takes to create consistent molds of rubber silicone. Maybe it'd be possible to mold the silicone around the memory foam....
Anyway, sounds like your heated shop needs a vortex tube...
I really think you nailed it or got damn close. Beyond that it's fine tuning. I cant find any DIY recipes for memory foam, it would seem ideal to be able to just pour a mixture into the dampers and let it set up properly. Beyond that, it sure would be nice to be able to cut a proper sphere, or a sphere with a cylinder on each pole to custom fit the dampers...
I'm not sure what it takes to create consistent molds of rubber silicone. Maybe it'd be possible to mold the silicone around the memory foam....
Anyway, sounds like your heated shop needs a vortex tube...
I think you've got it. If I were interested in retailing, a silicone mold would be the ideal solution.... Lattice structure, think I need a Stratasys printer....wonder if the wife would notice...
That vortex tube was cool and the video was well done...thanks for the share.
That vortex tube was cool and the video was well done...thanks for the share.
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