Looking for a "how to" calibrate batteries

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Just leave it on, takes a while but it will croak eventually. With PolarPros it goes even faster. The battery FS is most annoying, have to disable it and remember to turn it back on later.
 
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Just leave it on, takes a while but it will croak eventually. With PolarPros it goes even faster. The battery FS is most annoying, have to disable it and remember to turn it back on later.
Thanks- was hoping I didn't have to lay it on a pillow or something..:confused:
 
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Also, Solex allows you to run the motors at Slow, Medium and Fast speeds. Not really sure how much throttle is actually applied...but even Fast seems like it's only 25% so not enough to lift off. Still, I strapped mine down anyways. It's finally raining in San Diego so calibrating my batteries.
 
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Also, Solex allows you to run the motors at Slow, Medium and Fast speeds. Not really sure how much throttle is actually applied...but even Fast seems like it's only 25% so not enough to lift off. Still, I strapped mine down anyways. It's finally raining in San Diego so calibrating my batteries.
Um- you could take the props off...o_O
 
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Loads not enough, seems to take too long. And the sound is actually more annoying with props off.

5.7a with props
2.9a without props
 
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I've followed the calibration guide with one of my batteries twice using the solex discharge method and still haven't noticed any change in the voltage separation between cells.

1 is around .07v lower than the others. It gets down to around 1.5 to 1.7 volts when the pack is a whole has reached 12v. I know I can do permanent damage to that cell if I keep trying to start a balanced cycle, since I have several other spares I might just try to disassemble it and explore.

It doesn't look that complicated inside from the photos I've seen and my experience with electric vehicle battery packs should cover me on safety.
 

EZL

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Just leave it on, takes a while but it will croak eventually. With PolarPros it goes even faster. The battery FS is most annoying, have to disable it and remember to turn it back on later.
:eek: NO, get a good quality "Balance Charger/Discharger unit" for Lipos, $40-$200 whatever your budget can afford. :)
 
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:eek: NO, get a good quality "Balance Charger/Discharger unit" for Lipos, $40-$200 whatever your budget can afford. :)
The battery contains all the balancing/monitoring circuitry internally. That's what makes it "Smart".

A balance charger would only be useful if an externally accessible balancing port was present like most standard LiPO batteries.

The only external connections are B+, B-, and the two data pins top and bottom in the one remaining socket.
 
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:eek: NO, get a good quality "Balance Charger/Discharger unit" for Lipos, $40-$200 whatever your budget can afford. :)
YES, you're thinking of cheap non "Smart" batteries. Read the first link I put in post.
 
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Um- you could take the props off...o_O
It's not advisable to run for an extended time sans props. You can overheat the motors. That and the props add some resistance adding a load to draw the battery down quicker. High Speed in Solex Battery Drain is 25% spin and not nearly enough for launch. I lock mine in the bathroom to protect pets and people from spinning props as they are invisible when spinning. Helps with the noise as well.
 
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EZL

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The battery contains all the balancing/monitoring circuitry internally. That's what makes it "Smart".

A balance charger would only be useful if an externally accessible balancing port was present like most standard LiPO batteries.

The only external connections are B+, B-, and the two data pins top and bottom in the one remaining socket.
I am sure that internally they are using circuitry that is supplying power to several series wired batteries? I doubt that it's one large battery.
Maybe some of the fellas have had the battery case apart to see how connections are made and a look at the circuitry? Anyone have a
circuit diagram on the Solo's battery?
 
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I am sure that internally they are using circuitry that is supplying power to several series wired batteries? I doubt that it's one large battery.
Maybe some of the fellas have had the battery case apart to see how connections are made and a look at the circuitry? Anyone have a
circuit diagram on the Solo's battery?
The battery is a 4 cell assembly. The B+ and B- are connected to the positive most and negative most cells. Wiring internally connects the cells to each other in series. The external charger provides power to the string as a series, leaving balancing up to the internal circuitry.

The data pins connect to the SMbus compliant BMS internal to the pack.

I would love a circuit diagram if anyone has one
 
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EZL

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The battery is a 4 cell assembly. The B+ and B- are connected to the positive most and negative most cells. Wiring internally connects the cells to each other in series. The external charger provides power to the string as a series, leaving balancing up to the internal circuitry.

The data pins connect to the SMbus compliant BMS internal to the pack.

I would love a circuit diagram if anyone has one
Same here on the Solo battery diagram. I seen a review on a fella having problems with a Solo flying long distance and on the screen it showed
that the battery had plenty of voltage but the craft insisted on RTH and even with him trying to land it manually the craft would go into RTH.
I was wondering if a cell was dropping out and recovering causing all kinds of problems? There are so many things that can go wrong on
the drones while in flight. I had a gimbal go wonky on my X380 which caused problems later with a crash and it's a wonder these things can
fly with all of the variables present!
 

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