Please help. ..just got a gimble( paid outrages price) ..but points to the right about 5 to 10 degrees. .Ive tried everything but nothing works. .recalibrated solo. .but still not straight ..any thoughts?
gimble not pointing straight
- Thread starter daniel s
- Start date
I have (2) gimbals. One is off-center by about 8 degrees, the other is perfectly straight. Both shoot great video.
Yep tried the weights...I run a hero 4 silver and use the small wrights that 3dr recommends...shoots great video.. just looks alittle funny
Thanks...I guess ill judt live with it...love this forum.. I have learned alot from u guys
Thanks guys...love my solo.. and love this forum.. u guys help keep this bird alive...even though it is dying.. soon parts are gonna be as rare as bigfoot.. I have 2solos now 7batteries 3chargers 4xtra motors.. I sure wish 3rd party companies would star making solo parts.. seems to still be a huge market for this bird.. happy flying my friends
Man that sucks about the solo...in my opinion it is the best drone out there...when I was in the market for a top of the line drone it was between the phantom 3 or the solo.. I chose the solo.. it just looks really cool and I already had 2 gopros...and I liked the fact that I could take the gopro out and use it.. with the phantom u r stuck with the camera that comes with it...I didn't know at the time I bought the solo that it was dying...if I was rich.. I would buy the solo rights and revive it....
A little late to the conversation, but here's some info I've learned over the years related to the topic. Take it for what it is, as I am no expert on any subject. Daniel has been persistent for my input...
The gimbal has two modes for the motors, high and low torque. The high torque mode only applies when the prop motors are running. So in your example the motor are in low torque mode, which is sitting idle and not armed.
With the props off, you can prove the assertion by arming the motors and raising the throttle as tho it were flying. The gimbal should straighten out or get fairly close. Again this activates the three gimbal motors to high torque mode, which is what matters...right?
There are other causes as well and can persist even in flight. Common causes. Improperly installed hdmi cable, whereas the cable is either pushing or pulling on the gimbal, basically offsetting the gimbal's reference to correct alignment.
Another cause is applying ear plugs (or other) that extend above the rear dampers. The gimbal to main board clearance is about 3-5mm. Many times this MOD holds the gimbal at an up angle, again throwing off what is the reference of level. Also any extended MOD can hold the gimbal at an off center alignment, basically wedging the gimbal to the main board.
Then other mods such as moon gel wedged under the gimbal's circuit board can again align the gimbal off angle or throw off the level reference...
Ideally, with any MOD applied, the gimbal should be able to move freely and give on its axis of rotation. You should expect at least 1/8" of unrestricted movement on all three axes. I find pinching/grasping the gimbal at the upper yaw arm (from exterior) provides the ability to move the gimbal around without causing damage.
Best way to install and confirm the gimbal is freely moving is a top down approach. Removing the battery tray provides reasonable visual access to see what or how the gimbal is being affected by various MODs. The gimbal cross plate is a good visual reference to this movement or alignment. But basically you are wanting the gimbal floating on the four isolators and level with the bird. If your MOD is hanging up you should be able to feel the resistance easily with a nudge, so don't go ham fisting the gimbal around to find the limit of the overall play.
This is difficult to explain written and I have no interest or time in producing a video to show otherwise. You'll need to get your hands dirty if you want to understand and then resolve. I've posted plenty about the subject over the years, pretty much an open book in what I've learned along the way to Solo nirvana.... #IFLYSOLO
The gimbal has two modes for the motors, high and low torque. The high torque mode only applies when the prop motors are running. So in your example the motor are in low torque mode, which is sitting idle and not armed.
With the props off, you can prove the assertion by arming the motors and raising the throttle as tho it were flying. The gimbal should straighten out or get fairly close. Again this activates the three gimbal motors to high torque mode, which is what matters...right?
There are other causes as well and can persist even in flight. Common causes. Improperly installed hdmi cable, whereas the cable is either pushing or pulling on the gimbal, basically offsetting the gimbal's reference to correct alignment.
Another cause is applying ear plugs (or other) that extend above the rear dampers. The gimbal to main board clearance is about 3-5mm. Many times this MOD holds the gimbal at an up angle, again throwing off what is the reference of level. Also any extended MOD can hold the gimbal at an off center alignment, basically wedging the gimbal to the main board.
Then other mods such as moon gel wedged under the gimbal's circuit board can again align the gimbal off angle or throw off the level reference...
Ideally, with any MOD applied, the gimbal should be able to move freely and give on its axis of rotation. You should expect at least 1/8" of unrestricted movement on all three axes. I find pinching/grasping the gimbal at the upper yaw arm (from exterior) provides the ability to move the gimbal around without causing damage.
Best way to install and confirm the gimbal is freely moving is a top down approach. Removing the battery tray provides reasonable visual access to see what or how the gimbal is being affected by various MODs. The gimbal cross plate is a good visual reference to this movement or alignment. But basically you are wanting the gimbal floating on the four isolators and level with the bird. If your MOD is hanging up you should be able to feel the resistance easily with a nudge, so don't go ham fisting the gimbal around to find the limit of the overall play.
This is difficult to explain written and I have no interest or time in producing a video to show otherwise. You'll need to get your hands dirty if you want to understand and then resolve. I've posted plenty about the subject over the years, pretty much an open book in what I've learned along the way to Solo nirvana.... #IFLYSOLO
Thanks rich . i have pulled that gimble cable out about 50 times..ive got it pretty smooth now...every now and then i can see alittle side to side shake ..my wife says she cant see it...but we solo owners can spot a vibration 10 miles away in the dark..lol...i think it is not possible to get every little vibration out .....anyway thanks for the helpA little late to the conversation, but here's some info I've learned over the years related to the topic. Take it for what it is, as I am no expert on any subject. Daniel has been persistent for my input...
The gimbal has two modes for the motors, high and low torque. The high torque mode only applies when the prop motors are running. So in your example the motor are in low torque mode, which is sitting idle and not armed.
With the props off, you can prove the assertion by arming the motors and raising the throttle as tho it were flying. The gimbal should straighten out or get fairly close. Again this activates the three gimbal motors to high torque mode, which is what matters...right?
There are other causes as well and can persist even in flight. Common causes. Improperly installed hdmi cable, whereas the cable is either pushing or pulling on the gimbal, basically offsetting the gimbal's reference to correct alignment.
Another cause is applying ear plugs (or other) that extend above the rear dampers. The gimbal to main board clearance is about 3-5mm. Many times this MOD holds the gimbal at an up angle, again throwing off what is the reference of level. Also any extended MOD can hold the gimbal at an off center alignment, basically wedging the gimbal to the main board.
Then other mods such as moon gel wedged under the gimbal's circuit board can again align the gimbal off angle or throw off the level reference...
Ideally, with any MOD applied, the gimbal should be able to move freely and give on its axis of rotation. You should expect at least 1/8" of unrestricted movement on all three axes. I find pinching/grasping the gimbal at the upper yaw arm (from exterior) provides the ability to move the gimbal around without causing damage.
Best way to install and confirm the gimbal is freely moving is a top down approach. Removing the battery tray provides reasonable visual access to see what or how the gimbal is being affected by various MODs. The gimbal cross plate is a good visual reference to this movement or alignment. But basically you are wanting the gimbal floating on the four isolators and level with the bird. If your MOD is hanging up you should be able to feel the resistance easily with a nudge, so don't go ham fisting the gimbal around to find the limit of the overall play.
This is difficult to explain written and I have no interest or time in producing a video to show otherwise. You'll need to get your hands dirty if you want to understand and then resolve. I've posted plenty about the subject over the years, pretty much an open book in what I've learned along the way to Solo nirvana.... #IFLYSOLO
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