Gimble goes crazy when i put my gopro 4 black in.

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#1
Bought a used 3DR SOLO. Love it so far. As soon as i plug my camera in the gimble just goes crazy, so i cant get any video at all thru the solo app.
 
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#2
When not turned on the camera should be facing straight forward. I glue a nickle to the back. If it is pretty well balanced aiming forward then just follow the easy steps in this clip:
 
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#11
As soon as i plug it in it just starts like twitching is the only way to describe . Moving back and forth up and down. As soon as i unplug it stops.
I've got 4-5 that are acting this way. @just_bruce mentioned previously this a sensor of sorts. I'd really like to figure a way to repair...

Fwiw, a bent gimbal will act the same way. None of the ones I have are bent. I'm going to try @skyhax suggestion.
 
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#12
Is it 'headbanging' [going limit to limit *very* quickly, banging into the physical stops] or just 'nodding' [going up and down at a fast, but not excessive rate, decelerating before it hts the physical limits] ?

To me, nodding indicates a mismatch between the encoder and the IMU. Headbanging indicates a complete loss of data from both feedback channels.

Near as I can tell the Solo gimbal [like many others] doesn't actually have an 'absolute home' position, instead relying on feedback and an algorithm to deduce where home should be based on first motion after power up.

Could be voltage supply issues to the potentiometers that are used for secondary positional feedback, could be a stuck or otherwised damaged IMU. OR I could be way out in left field with crazy deductions....
 
Likes: RichWest
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#14
I had an issue with mine not giving me controls. I had to completely reset controller and drone and do a update again after and a recalibration and works great now. Maybe something to try.
 
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#15
you got a bum gimbal, dude. Look for a tear in the ribbonn connector that runs the length of the gimbal. Specifically where it curves and goes into the camera holder. That has happened to me twice. Another time it was the HDMI port on the solo board under the battery tray. A member suggested to ever so lightly 'crimp' the port a tad so that it is more surely contacting the little pads it's supposed to be soldered to. Barring any of that, I don't know what to tell ya. These gimbals are the worst pos's ever, imo. OR it could also be the HDMI port on the gimbal itself. That pos is extremely delicate.
 
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#16
Could be voltage supply issues to the potentiometers that are used for secondary positional feedback, could be a stuck or otherwised damaged IMU. OR I could be way out in left field with crazy deductions....
Curious, on each of the gimbal's motor control boards is a ceramic smd crystal, what is its purpose in controlling the motors? I really don't understand electronics, so I have no clue why or what it does.

From what I've read it is a timing mechanism.

Abracon AMB3BH5E 20.00MHz
 
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#17
Curious, on each of the gimbal's motor control boards is a ceramic smd crystal, what is its purpose in controlling the motors? I really don't understand electronics, so I have no clue why or what it does.

From what I've read it is a timing mechanism.

Abracon AMB3BH5E 20.00MHz
It is likely tied to the CAN network. Each of the motor control boards is actually on a small, dedicated CAN network to talk back to the microcontroller which lives atop the gimbal on the 'main' board. It makes some sense to provide an independent crystal source for each, given the high amount of RF noise present on a quadcopter.
 
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#18
Cool, appreciate the reply, it makes sense now...just never understood how the network was driven.

So if the crystal is bad you'd likely have an issue controlling the motor. Makes me wonder what the fault mode would be...? Would a bad crystal corrupt the entire CAN network?
 

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