Recent content by mazsola76

After chechink for bent arms, I would check also for the roll motor tempereature. Even if it is just a little bit warmer than the others, it may be the culprit, if the axis are free to rotate otherwise. I had an eBay bought one with the same behaviour... interestingly on the same axis ...

Unfortunately not... I would have done it already.

In the picture there is a Cameron Sino branded battery. I bought one from Germany (battery shipped from US excluded here), working flawlessly. It has exactly the same weight as my "original 3dR"... if there is such a thing. Even the plastic parts seems to come from the same mould. The LEDs have...

That connector has around 80pins, as I remember correctly. Just to "work" and "make changes" I don't think you need more than 20. If 2-3 pins are pushed wrongly becaused of the deformed plastic it can cause the described symptoms. And if you look closely on the pictures you can see that...

The system connector looks a little bit toasted... The contacts are fine, but the plastic is definitely melted. It can cause problems - just my 2 cents. When doing such surgery you should cover the rest of components with aluminum foil. Also a good temperature controlled hotgun on rework station...

Hi, guys! Just take a look at the following adapters: Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com I am sure that one of these or similar ones will fit the stock 3dR ribbon on the gimbal (not sure about the flat cable connector pitch, so please check it !). With some tinkering I...

Hi, Cynfab! So as I understood, you have UNO boards for the simulator? - probably I made some mistakes when edited / compiled for the Mini Pro :(

Thanks, It seems the master (Solo) gives up on 0x0b (battery address) - it has a 10sec timeout in batt_smbus.cpp - and than probably makes those general calls. Must put on a scope in the first 10 seconds ...

Hi, Cynfab! I have been playing a little (in fact: a lot ... :) ) with an Arduino Mini Pro and your code just to simulate a Solo Battery, despite beeing an Arduino newbie. In short: it does'n seems working :(. Putting a scope on the SMbus revealed a strange thing: the Solo mainboard just makes...

Thanks, I will try that. Right now the Solo is disassembled because I want to add an Arduino "Smart Battery Simulator" / adapter between the current sensor and SMBbus input, as discussed already here, with some modifications.

Well, I don't expect much longer flight times, these are the batteries I own (5800mAh, 4S 30C continuous) - even a little bit less heavy than the original ;) On the other hand, my only concern regarding the original batteries is the 20A nominal rating - at 5200mAH it means about 4C rating...

Thanks for the replies! Regarding the soldering, I'm not so worried. I'm a hardware engineer and reworked hundreds of notebooks and phones ;). I have several Solo-sized "dumb" batteries, even slightly larger capacities and higher C-rating, thus increased flight time. Like I said I purchased my...

Thanks for the reply! Well, if the Solo gimbal behaves differently regarding its arming status, it explains a lot :). I tried it only unarmed :). My Storm32 wasn't used via MAVlink and without it the yaw stabilization has no clue about the arming status. Right now I'm fighting with the Flight...

Hi, I just want to forget those fancy (in fact very low C-rated) "smart" batteries and use "dumb" ones. The wires you are talking about are the SMbus wires - I don't need them for analog readout. In fact dumb batteries have only the power wires. I usually buy 5800mah 4S batteries for my Tarot...

Hi, guys! Have you ever considered to forget the SMbus and just using the Pixhawk2 analog inputs for reading battery voltage and current? It's pin 47 and 49 on the 80pin connector. Mission Planner allows you to modify the battery data readout method from SMbus to analog... But I'm not sure if...