Recent content by fpvsteve

I like what you are doing! My solution when I did the Solo gimbal mod for the newer Hero cams was to replace all stock HDMI cabling with one ribbon HDMI all the way back to the main board. That solution doesn’t look very nice, but it’s reliably working now for almost one year now.

Not to my knowledge. But you may trigger action from the Arduino, eg by setting Solo to RTH via mavlink when a cell is going down. Or to trigger the LEDs, or buzzer,...

You did it right to enable Serial2 by setting the SERIAL2_xx parameters accordingly to the desired baud rate and mavlink protocol. If that’s not working, then test the line with a working serial device, eg an old 3DR telemetry link or the like. A typical issue is that some wires broke off...

Depending on the manufacturer, the point of no return (=permanent loss of capacity) of a lipo cell is between 3.0 and 3.3V/cell. If you trigger failsafe at 13.2V for the entire pack it’s almost guaranteed that one of the 4 cells will drift and go below critical voltage during RTH. Also 14V...

In theory yes. But I am not aware of that anyone has written the Arduino code to read the BMS protocol yet. If you find a source I would be interested ?

Thanks for sharing - nice work! I would recommend to carefully break off the herobus connector from the Solo gimbal PCB board. By cutting it off with a Dremel or by trying to desolder you risk a shortage between the many electrical contacts and a subsequent damage of the gimbal controller...

Actually I have full control trough Solex :) https://www.hackster.io/user1085757683/gopro-hero-5-6-7-black-control-with-3dr-solo-9df7aa

Some more details. You need to cut out everything on the back so that the Gopro fits seamlessly with the backplate. I also exchanged the original HDMI plug with a new ribbon cable (significantly less weight). The pictures should give you enough information to take the corresponding measurements...

3D printing won’t work I am afraid. You will still need the PCB on the backside since it contains the hardware for the tilt motor. And you have yet to remove the herobus connector from the board otherwise the GP 5/6/ or 7 would not balance out. So it is easier to invest 5 minutes with a Dremel...

The Heroport needs to be removed and the structure to be cut out as far as possible in order to move the camera to the back. Otherwise the gimbal would not balance since the Hero 5/6 and the 7 are heavier and more bulky than the Hero 4.

“Cut and hacked to fit” would describe it best :) I put 2 of the bigger gimbal weights on the back which balances the gimbal perfectly well.

Thanks to @just_bruce for helping me out with a trashed gimbal to experiment with, I am on my way to fit the newer Gopro models into the 3DR gimbal. Still some work to do with the controls and video feed, but certainly doable.

I don’t see how QGC can corrupt the Solo parameters unless you explicitly changed them either in MP or QGC.

What kind of enhancements would you have in mind? The IMX has plenty of resources left for new stuff and handles video, smartshots and all RC pretty well. For high end computing needs such as image recognition, AI, video processing etc you can add eg a Jetson via USB to the IMX and directly...

This one: https://store.drotek.com/DP0501