So I don't feel I can confirm this 100pc. But instead of putting a different rom on my tab s 8.4 I rooted it and tried editing the nvram.txt file (or named fairly similar) and changed a parameter from all to eu. Rebooted. This seems to have allowed me to connect to channel 13. I'm in aus and some routers around here were already on 13 (airport). So it's actually been auto picking low channels
WiFi Card upgrade testing
- Thread starter NYG
- Start date
So I don't feel I can confirm this 100pc. But instead of putting a different rom on my tab s 8.4 I rooted it and tried editing the nvram.txt file (or named fairly similar) and changed a parameter from all to eu. Rebooted. This seems to have allowed me to connect to channel 13. I'm in aus and some routers around here were already on 13 (airport). So it's actually been auto picking low channels
I was reading about people modifying that file but I couldn't find it on my device. Still can't find it even with the flashed ROM. On the flashed ROM there's an option to select country in the advanced wifi settings. Sometimes I need to reboot my Tab Pro for it to see the Solo. It's not perfect but it does work.
I'm always looking for the easiest, most reliable method.
Mine was in \etc\wifi but called something like xxxnvram.txt and there were two files with the setting. One looked like a sample file, I changed them both for good measure. Note I had to root with Odin, and then used Es explorer to find the file (had to mount / and another base level file system dir as rw) using Es. Then I could navigate to that spot,right clicked and used the built in Es editor to modify the files.
I used this as a starting point but found no complete tutorial on it specifically.
I'll report back if I ever have to reboot or have trouble seeing solo. I might have to manually force it to 13 to ever see it as an issue though as my neighbors use this channel so auto is always selecting lower which I assume would never be an issue.
If someone with an un modified android device boots up wifi analyser or similar, has something broadcasting on 13 near them but can never see it in a scan, different story. I can always see it. I assume the two are unrelated (the ability to see high channel usage in a scan vs ability to join it)
"
All CM versions >9 have this problem
But it is easy to solve:
In the file \etc\wifi\nvram.txt you can change the line ccode=ALL to ccode=EU.
After a reboot you can use the high channels
If you flash another ROM to have to repeat this."
Android 4+ and Wi-Fi channel 13
I used this as a starting point but found no complete tutorial on it specifically.
I'll report back if I ever have to reboot or have trouble seeing solo. I might have to manually force it to 13 to ever see it as an issue though as my neighbors use this channel so auto is always selecting lower which I assume would never be an issue.
If someone with an un modified android device boots up wifi analyser or similar, has something broadcasting on 13 near them but can never see it in a scan, different story. I can always see it. I assume the two are unrelated (the ability to see high channel usage in a scan vs ability to join it)
"
All CM versions >9 have this problem
But it is easy to solve:
In the file \etc\wifi\nvram.txt you can change the line ccode=ALL to ccode=EU.
After a reboot you can use the high channels
If you flash another ROM to have to repeat this."
Android 4+ and Wi-Fi channel 13
Last edited:
I would check your antenna u.fl connectors on the card. They are fiddly and the Centre contact is tiny. Make sure you scrape as much of the white silicon off before reattaching to ensure you've got a good connection to the card. If you rotate the wifi card to remount, they can become partially dislodged. I usually let the glue set for a bit before remounting.
You can use the Solo app in a rough test to make sure you are getting strong signal.
Put one of the controller antennas individually up close to a Solo leg antenna. You should be able to get to -1 or even positive dB levels in the app and then you may overshoot where you get too close and overwhelm the antenna and get -256dB. This is easiest if you have an Alfa but stock antennas should show you the same. Check both antennas on the controller.
You can also check with Wifi Analyzer app on android to see what you are broadcasting. All rough tests of course, but it might show you where something is wrong.
@Lamda thanks for advices. With RSSI I am able to get -1 to - 250 max. Dont have any android device, but willl try to figure it out.
I am just thinking if the cards are not set to lower power, because of some regulations, or things like that. Is there any way to check this?
Also the thing about antenna connector, can it be the reason, even with this value of RSSI? (I dont want to tear down the controller again, but it looks like I will have to.)
Thanks Lybior
I am just thinking if the cards are not set to lower power, because of some regulations, or things like that. Is there any way to check this?
Also the thing about antenna connector, can it be the reason, even with this value of RSSI? (I dont want to tear down the controller again, but it looks like I will have to.)
Thanks Lybior
Seems like it's connected correctly. I'm assuming you are in North America? If so, make sure you haven't selected EU transmission levels in the Solo app. I can't remember the exact setting name, but you'll find it in the settings.
You may want to try another flight or two as well at a different time. I can get varying levels of range depending on the weather, who's broadcasting around me etc. and I've had the odd day where I've had really low range at the same location. Still acceptable, just nowhere near my max.
Without knowing more about your setup, hard to say what could be wrong for you. I try and check through things systematically when troubleshooting to see what has changed.
I've heard of another person remove and replace the card several times. They said the internal antenna lead was not routed well and was getting interference from the boards. They taped the lines back to where they were when they dismantled Solo and got good results? Small things like that seem to change results for some people.
It could be as simple as the card not being seated properly where te pins aren't making full contact or one of the metal spacer nuts shifting and shorting something.
@Lybior
Do you have directional antennas?
Have you changed anything with the values with the controller or Solo?
You should see a increase in range " If only a little" ?
I Replaced both cards & get a little bit better range & feed from Solo.
Until someone figures out how to increase power "at the least to 28Dbm" on these cards, then were just going to get what we get.
Don't forget, these cards a more sensitive, so any interference will decrease your range.
Personally, I find this to be non justifiable Mod "Cost & Time"
To me these cards, are just more sensitive to reception of signal, hence better range & video feed.
Hope this helps
Do you have directional antennas?
Have you changed anything with the values with the controller or Solo?
You should see a increase in range " If only a little" ?
I Replaced both cards & get a little bit better range & feed from Solo.
Until someone figures out how to increase power "at the least to 28Dbm" on these cards, then were just going to get what we get.
Don't forget, these cards a more sensitive, so any interference will decrease your range.
Personally, I find this to be non justifiable Mod "Cost & Time"
To me these cards, are just more sensitive to reception of signal, hence better range & video feed.
Hope this helps
No actually I am from Europe, I guess you mean the "EU Tx Power Compliant" in advanced settings? I dont have it enabled, but I guess it should be,, if I am from EU right? I have already 2 flights, today and yestreday, both same.
About the setup: I have SOLO plus Gimbal with GoPro HERO 4 Black, and I am running the 3DR SOLO app on iPhone6+.
"They taped the lines back to where they were when they dismantled Solo and got good results? Small things like that seem to change results for some people.
It could be as simple as the card not being seated properly where te pins aren't making full contact or one of the metal spacer nuts shifting and shorting something." I will have to check this again.
Thanks for help. Lybior
No I have only the stock antennas, but it should improve the range still, based on what i read.I havent changed anything, SOLO even didnt want me to pair it again.
"Personally, I find this to be non justifiable Mod "Cost & Time"
To me these cards, are just more sensitive to reception of signal, hence better range & video feed".
Based on what I read, I though it exactly conversely. And I still hope so.
I will probably try second MikroTek card, its possible that this one is defective.
Again thanks to all of you for your help... Lybior
@Lamda I tried to turn on the "EU Tx Power Compliant", but it doesnt work. I can only enable the " Advanced flights Modes", but the switcher for "EU Tx Power Compliant" is not active. Is here anyone who has it enabled?
Thanks Lybior
Edit:
For anybody with same problem, I deleted the app, installed again and now its working.
I will try if it helped tomorrow.
Thanks Lybior
Edit:
For anybody with same problem, I deleted the app, installed again and now its working.
I will try if it helped tomorrow.
The EU TX Compliant setting will likely reduce your wifi card power as EU restrictions are tighter, if I'm not mistaken.
Other people have also been exploring modifying the wifi drivers/config as the US and apparently Taiwan are some of the countries that allow the highest transmission limits. Taiwan, I believe, enables the extended wifi channels that the US does not allow.
The stock cards output + 18 DBMS. Measured with a Rf Spectrum analyzer .
I just recently purchased those cards but I'm waiting for the warranty to be over before I install the cards however I did Measure the Rf output controller with the stock card +18 dbms which matches the specs for the stock chips set.
I have axis to a whole Rf lab of test equipment so I will pass any measurements on to this group.
All measurements have been done with the latest software.
Bob
That will be really interesting to see the actual difference between stock and upgrade cards.
I'll be fitting my upgraded cards this week or next. I shall look into local regulations for wifi channels and max TX power. From what I recall it is linked to region; so a quick edit to make region somewhere like Bolivia where all 14 2.4 GHz channels and 30 dbm are allowed is the first phase; then set TX power to 29 dbm (which will be ignored of you do that and your region is somewhere where Max TX power is 20 dbm)
BN
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Hi guys what your doing is amazing but can I ask the question why haven't 3dr done a similiar thing? Are they bound to a law of a certain power output? I don't know just curious, being in Australia we have certain laws on power output but I am not sure what they are.
The thing of concern to me down here is the talk of WIFI transmission for high speed broadband because it's cheaper than running fibre optics, if that happens we are going to be blown out of the air.
The thing of concern to me down here is the talk of WIFI transmission for high speed broadband because it's cheaper than running fibre optics, if that happens we are going to be blown out of the air.
I guess, if one were planning a trip to a Country that has different Tx Power or WiFi channels Laws, then I guess we wouldn't get in any really big problems...
@John hill, I think you have WiFi channel "13" available to you "Austraila, here in the USA, that's a No, go.
As to TXpower, If one had a HAM Radio operator licence"Easily obtainable" then to "test" Txpower over WiFi isn't too much of a problem. "up to 500 watts"
"Testing" is the key.
Looking forward to @BobNoxious using testing equipment. Willing to help with this subject.
@John hill, I think you have WiFi channel "13" available to you "Austraila, here in the USA, that's a No, go.
As to TXpower, If one had a HAM Radio operator licence"Easily obtainable" then to "test" Txpower over WiFi isn't too much of a problem. "up to 500 watts"
"Testing" is the key.
Looking forward to @BobNoxious using testing equipment. Willing to help with this subject.
I am pretty sure that the mikrotik wifi card
Has better sensitivity compared to stock card.I know it's in the low -90 dbms but the phantoms are over -100 dbms.
Bob
Has better sensitivity compared to stock card.I know it's in the low -90 dbms but the phantoms are over -100 dbms.
Bob
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Im very interested to see what you find.
I had the Mikrotik cards in both Solo and Artoo. Measuring the before and after, I found that the Solo card put put out the same signal strength, and the heat generated caused total loss of link to ground (and luckily successful completely automated RTH) 3 times.
I changed the Solo card back to stock and havent had any other issues at all. Current range is 3000'+ with stock antennae and solid video, and I haven't pushed it any further.
Be warned that the MikroTik card in the Solo sits closer to the HDMI board and the heat is produced on the side facing the HDMI card and radiates into it. The Solo wifi card sits further away and the heat is produced on the other side if the card, sparing the HDMI card quite so much heat.
If the HDMI card gets too hot (sandwiched between the hot battery and hot MK wifi card) it shuts down resulting in loss of link, and hopefully RTH if you have GPS, otherwise it downwind you go.
I had the Mikrotik cards in both Solo and Artoo. Measuring the before and after, I found that the Solo card put put out the same signal strength, and the heat generated caused total loss of link to ground (and luckily successful completely automated RTH) 3 times.
I changed the Solo card back to stock and havent had any other issues at all. Current range is 3000'+ with stock antennae and solid video, and I haven't pushed it any further.
Be warned that the MikroTik card in the Solo sits closer to the HDMI board and the heat is produced on the side facing the HDMI card and radiates into it. The Solo wifi card sits further away and the heat is produced on the other side if the card, sparing the HDMI card quite so much heat.
If the HDMI card gets too hot (sandwiched between the hot battery and hot MK wifi card) it shuts down resulting in loss of link, and hopefully RTH if you have GPS, otherwise it downwind you go.
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