Solo Grande..A DIY Build from Solo..

Depending on the camera, there are interfaces that can be used for remote trigger/ zooming etc. Here is what they look like..

Thanks, glad to see ready-made solutions available. What does the software side of the interface look like? Is there some level of abstraction for the various camera functions, or an I/O standard? The only analogue I can think of is like MIDI for musical instruments.
 
Typically, you would use an unused cahnnel on your RC transmitter. With the Solo, you would have to program the pause button or may be able to use the new servo controls in the Solex app. But typically, this is the control functions:
Normal operation - Movement of the RC Transmitter stick from one extreme to the other will trigger the camera.
Continuous operation - If the stick is held in the ‘on’ position photos will be taken every 5-6 secs.
Switch operation - This is an extra blue wire to the device which if shorted to black triggers the device . This allows triggering with either a RC channel, and/or any device that can short two wires together.
Repeat operation - When enabled this makes the gentled trigger the camera every 25 seconds, even if no trigger is received. This option is enabled by shorting the switch's blue wire to black at power-up.
 
Typically, you would use an unused cahnnel on your RC transmitter. With the Solo, you would have to program the pause button or may be able to use the new servo controls in the Solex app. But typically, this is the control functions:
Normal operation - Movement of the RC Transmitter stick from one extreme to the other will trigger the camera.
Continuous operation - If the stick is held in the ‘on’ position photos will be taken every 5-6 secs.
Switch operation - This is an extra blue wire to the device which if shorted to black triggers the device . This allows triggering with either a RC channel, and/or any device that can short two wires together.
Repeat operation - When enabled this makes the gentled trigger the camera every 25 seconds, even if no trigger is received. This option is enabled by shorting the switch's blue wire to black at power-up.

Gotcha. So it sounds like your solution is for the GH4 which is accomplished purely with hardware (the cable) and PWM for triggering via the GH4's existing remote trigger port? But anything more extensive like exposure settings or capture settings would need software, some protocol that can communication from your tablet UI to the camera itself.
 
to my knowledge the only ship ready solution is the Black Magic Micro that comes ready to configure to RC control for settings
 
I'm looking at doing this myself in the very near future. I had a crash on a beach with my Solo and the motors are trashed. Just bought a new one and have the electronics from the old one. I just have a few questions about your build process with the board.

1) How did you get the board to handle the total of 48 volts? Did you use a step-down? If you did that, then did you lose battery info on the transmitter?
2) How did you end up controlling the new escs with the original board?
3) What did you use to mount the board on the new frame? Did you have to modify the board in any way for the new frame?
4) Do you think it would be possible to build this as an X8 by splicing the signal wires for the escs and motors on the same arm?
Thank you for publishing this to us, it's great to see the Solo can be used for so much more!
 
I'm looking at doing this myself in the very near future. I had a crash on a beach with my Solo and the motors are trashed. Just bought a new one and have the electronics from the old one. I just have a few questions about your build process with the board.

1) How did you get the board to handle the total of 48 volts? Did you use a step-down? If you did that, then did you lose battery info on the transmitter? Yes, voltage is stepped down and no longer do we have voltage read on the Tx. We use a voltage monitor on one of the batteries.
2) How did you end up controlling the new escs with the original board? Just using the 2 Esc wires needed for Esc. You can see them in the pic.
3) What did you use to mount the board on the new frame? Did you have to modify the board in any way for the new frame? 3D printed a box for it to sit in, stuck to the frame with good 2 sided foam tape.
4) Do you think it would be possible to build this as an X8 by splicing the signal wires for the escs and motors on the same arm? Someone else mentioned it should be possible, but I wonder if there would be sufficient yaw control.
Thank you for publishing this to us, it's great to see the Solo can be used for so much more!
 
Which are the two ESC wires? I've examined the pics and looked at my own motor pods but can't figure which are ESC and which are led...
 
Which are the two ESC wires? I've examined the pics and looked at my own motor pods but can't figure which are ESC and which are led...
White is the signal wire..Black line to indicate the 4th pin.
4iDMdQn_hvvd1EYVSuMM8RDth1QcFyVcp9-Jd5_qOB6mB_ZMZPuy4_NsYlyLFcf4FWC315KwOtgWUYjvBMcKKPJfZkSBNhrNbeALkLhwQiEupcoYJ4y0AKC0IvZop0V6LqhwGlBI0Cjmef8OUblbQ-sKUa_ByK1O1-uGUDMS_mweU9TxpRUNrqw7LJHiyI1t5oJp1Nz60t5imlKOkj8YF2JgYHrRBWzM3qMqRq4Q9yKmmgKkj9KhSzAVtyQ0nq5VlaKcx2x6MOleGObjaYwY2kMkUzTUgEaDmToB852Fx35uuVZJzizWw2xuFip-bFeR2iIGFAwpbTbKf5f8iMdsS9ACN9g_5Wpj8lRCrJSBi617Ioc5NStzVa6JDb8P-J2Hd_zt4seRWT6mUtUGVE5JvshP9YOz3VPMQa0vwMtmoWzc8L1cqUY5i8u8vsGtt2fV9i5x2_g3W9LZSY9P97ut2J8qWs2JTAqFfq7jP_3N7wX5yTpQ9t12cbMd9pkd1N9OjlPOIIJFHaGdlEYdUV6uV54uGaEmjRLRot_IDoa0mbCtrrmyJc-v0ySks2I-_Iq7NOdohW-WPXC2rVq_ZkrDx06umDLJdYqzAZDW4dX_V7IGa_1t=w1318-h989-no
 
Do you have the documentation or anything for being able to use smart shots with your gimbal (storm32)?

Cheers!
Nope. No gimbal control in smart shots. Have to control tilt manually. Still waiting for that code to be cracked.
 
How did you bypass needing the Smart Battery to Arm/Fly? Can you just disable the battery arm checking in Mission Planner? Are you using a any kind of current sensor (power module style)?

I'm working on transplanting the electronics to a 6S frame setup, but keeping the Solo Gimbal, and only using 17in props so it will be considerably smaller than yours.

If you have more programming ability than I do check out gPhoto for controlling the camera. I got it working on a linux laptop with my A6000 but you can pretty much control everything (take photo, download files, read values for aperture, shutter, iso, etc; set value to X). They only thing you couldn't do is override the camera mode switch.
 
We aren't currently using any voltage or current monitoring from the battery. Doing it old school like we always did; battery alarm and timing. Since the board is not receiving any voltage info, it is not telling us it's too low. You can also disable voltage monitoring in Arducopter, but we haven't had to do that.

Thanks and good luck with the build..
 
OK, Build update. Rebuilt in a lighter frame with 25mm instead of 30mm tubes. Changed the motors from 170kv to 135kv and for now running 24" props. The side benefit of the motor change is the sound, or lack thereof! How many of you remember the movie Blue Thunder and 'Whisper Mode' of the helicopter? Well, that appears to be what has been achieved here. Notice in this clip from yesterday that when it moves just a few feet away, it is almost silent.. Turn your sound up....
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Like crickets chirping...with a breeze....;) Very impressive.

Interesting your use of up swept arms and motors. I've always believed stability was gained from this approach. Looking forward to seeing any video from this platform. I think you've created a winner of a frame and motor/prop combo.
 
Like crickets chirping...with a breeze....;) Very impressive.

Interesting your use of up swept arms and motors. I've always believed stability was gained from this approach. Looking forward to seeing any video from this platform. I think you've created a winner of a frame and motor/prop combo.
Thanks Rich, I think the added dihedral will help with stability of the low RPM motors.
 
LOL, it really does sound nice...thanks for sharing. I guess I now understand why you want the gimbal code opened up....it would take the original intent of Solo (The Platform) to the next level. I appreciate more what 3DR was trying to accomplish on behalf of the community. Too bad the parties split...
 

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