Solo battery connector

[User Name]

Hi everyone,

We all know the battery connector is hard to come by in reasonable quantities and prices, so I whipped this up. Forgive my sloppy solder job. The top and bottom of the main power tabs are connected, while the top data tab is separate. I think this is only 1oz copper clad board, maybe the people here with more electrical knowledge can advise on whether that's enough for the current requirements of charging the batteries.

I can make these in modest numbers, just cutting the boards and let people do the soldering. I don't want to try to make hundreds and hundreds, but it doesn't seem like that would be necessary.

Let me know what people think and what the interest level is.

 

[Chadbobb]

Interesting? Do you have dimensions of the parts? I could cut these out on my cnc pretty quickly if I had a CAD file for it.

I think for current you'll be fine. If you get those dimensions to me I can look it up.
link to calculator that also helps:
The CircuitCalculator.com Blog » PCB Trace Width Calculator

 

[dneelands]

Nice,
Beats the heck out of the ones I've been making by tearing wall warts apart.

Hi everyone,

We all know the battery connector is hard to come by in reasonable quantities and prices, so I whipped this up. Forgive my sloppy solder job. The top and bottom of the main power tabs are connected, while the top data tab is separate. I think this is only 1oz copper clad board, maybe the people here with more electrical knowledge can advise on whether that's enough for the current requirements of charging the batteries.

I can make these in modest numbers, just cutting the boards and let people do the soldering. I don't want to try to make hundreds and hundreds, but it doesn't seem like that would be necessary.

Let me know what people think and what the interest level is.

 

[RichWest]

Let me know what people think and what the interest level is.

I'd be in if only for the novelty of the design and the level of detailing. Fascinating use of common materials, in an uncommon fashion. At least from what I've seen to date.

If the power terminals were not adequate for the load, solid copper could easily replace within this design.

 

[User Name]

Chad, let me tweak the outlines and I'll post them ASAP, I had to do some minor trimming to get them to fit easily. I'm happy to provide the outlines for anyone that has the ability to cut them themselves... With a few people with access to CNC machines, I'm sure we can make these readily available to anyone who wants them.

Rich, I'd be happy to whip up one and send it to you if you can test it with regard to current capacity. Yes, those two bottom blades could be replaced with solid copper or brass, but it would drastically slow down how quick I could cut them, at least on my machine! In my experience, copper is a little tricky to cut... I made these cases for Raspberry Pi Zeros, one in aluminum, one in solid copper.

 

[deadbolt24]

ok I'm new and I have to ask why do you need a new battery connector is there a inherent problem with the oem ones or is this a build

 

[User Name]

ok I'm new and I have to ask why do you need a new battery connector is there a inherent problem with the oem ones or is this a build

Someone made a small device that plugs in and displays the data stored in the battery's "smarts", and also because people are making chargers that can charge 3, 4, 5+ batteries at a time, and they need connectors to plug them all in.

 

[RichWest]

@User Name If I may, those cases are sexy. I envy your ability and having access to such a machine. I have three tools on my list of wants; laser, router and water-jet cnc machines...

Copper is interesting material, just depends on the chemistry or how it was annealed. But in my thinking I would either cut and sand/file to fit. If a larger production, then punching the terminals would make the best sense. In either case, shouldn't cost more than a buck for the pair for the DIY version....

Wrong guy for calculating amps, besides I'm old school, bigger is better....just because. I've mentioned it before, but I would make an effort to polish out the copper on the circuit boards that makes contact with the battery's terminals. Also create a bevel to ease insertion. The Molex connector has a rated life for that mating, but assumes a matching interface. Just my mechanical reasoning.

I'll trade you in kind, I'll make a set of gimbal isolators/inserts for you based on my mod.

 

[User Name]

@User Name If I may, those cases are sexy. I envy your ability and having access to such a machine. I have three tools on my list of wants; laser, router and water-jet cnc machines....

Thanks, I do 3D modeling/rendering for imagery for a living, so the mill was a natural extension - was tired of only being able to look at stuff I'd model on a computer screen. A man can never have enough tools! I've been thinking of attaching a laser to my mill, the travel would be a bit limited compared to dedicated laser cutters, but otherwise, it'd do a fine job at moving it around. And yea, a water jet would be amazing. I saw that one on Kickstarter recently, really cool, but I think a little out of my price range, and the mill can basically do the same thing, if not quite as quick and easy. The mill wasn't bad, it's just a Taig, cost about $2500 with the control box and some basic tooling. Still a chunk of change, but considering the versatility (I've milled wood, plastic, metal, PC boards), it's not bad.

Copper is interesting material, just depends on the chemistry or how it was annealed. But in my thinking I would either cut and sand/file to fit. If a larger production, then punching the terminals would make the best sense. In either case, shouldn't cost more than a buck for the pair for the DIY version.....

I've enquired about having various things made in quantity, and I always seem to get crazy numbers that just wouldn't make it worth while. Having them stamped would definitely be the way to go, or maybe water jet. All depends on how many people would really be interested in them.

I'll trade you in kind, I'll make a set of gimbal isolators/inserts for you based on my mod.

Sure thing, I'll polish up the PC boards before I cut out the next ones and put one together for you. Thanks!

 

[User Name]

Interesting? Do you have dimensions of the parts? I could cut these out on my cnc pretty quickly if I had a CAD file for it.

I think for current you'll be fine. If you get those dimensions to me I can look it up.

So here's a zip with a DXF of the outlines: Solo Battery Plug The blades fit just snug in the slots with the PC board I'm using, they might be loose or snug if yours is thicker or thinner. Not sure what the tolerances are between brands. I cut them with a 1/32 inch end mill, just did a pocket .01 inches deep to remove the copper in those areas. Everything else should be obvious.

 

[RichWest]

Sure thing, I'll polish up the PC boards before I cut out the next ones and put one together for you.

No need, just send as milled and unpolished. I want to process the boards, just curious about the fit and finish when assembling. Besides I haven't used my iron in a month...need to keep in the groove with soldering projects.

Priced out some electrical grade copper from McMasters, for straight terminals in approx. 1/16" thick and 1" wide stock. $8 for a 1' strip. I should be able to get about 10 pair from it depending on the kerf. Jetting the terminals would be the quickest way to produce, based on your "T" design.

I spent years producing pencil drawings and then 2D vector drawings for extra money. No match for today's software, but in my day....

 

[User Name]

No need, just send as milled and unpolished. I want to process the boards, just curious about the fit and finish when assembling. Besides I haven't used my iron in a month...need to keep in the groove with soldering projects

Sure thing, PM me your address and I'll have them in the mail tomorrow!

I spent years producing pencil drawings and then 2D vector drawings for extra money. No match for today's software, but in my day....

I use all the "wrong" software for this stuff myself. Since background is graphic design, I use Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop and graphics 3D programs, as opposed to the likes of AutoCAD, Fusion and SolidWorks. But at the end of the day, vectors are vectors and polygons are polygons, so it all works!

 

[153stars]

Can you make one to match the charge plug , no need for 3rd terminal. I was trying to put together a 525 piece order or at least enough interest for Arrow to place an order for the molex charge plug on FB solo owners group. I already have what I need but hate posting links to sold out products , that everyone was asking for.
I like the concept you could just slide the prongs into a 3d printed block .

 

[User Name]

I could, but does the existence of the 3rd terminal really detract from the functionality as is? You don't have to wire anything to it, and it serves to prevent plugging it in with the polarity reversed. If I were to remove it, I'd want to add in a 3rd fake blade anyway like on the real charger plug to prevent reversing polarity, and at that point, it's really just replacing a functional blade with a non-functional one in a different location.

 

[153stars]

Agreed ,two tabs and a dummy. Someone made a 3D printed block you added bent copper tabs to for a charge plug , I didn't really like it . I must of got some of the last Molex plugs you had to add a tab to the side of those as well.
I think it's great you came up with an alternative.