Correct orientation of Alfa Antenna

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I've searched and can't find instructions for the correct orientation of the Alfa Antennae.
I've read that the Alfa logo should be pointing towards the solo. Is that correct?

Here are some photos. Which one would be the best position?



image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 
I've searched and can't find instructions for the correct orientation of the Alfa Antennae.
I've read that the Alfa logo should be pointing towards the solo. Is that correct?

Here are some photos. Which one would be the best position?



View attachment 2366 View attachment 2365 View attachment 2364

View attachment 2363
None of the above. Well the last one is probably best, but tilted up 15 degrees to aim more into the sky. Also it's OK if they are a little askew - they don't need to be symmetrical. Imagine they were the face of two flash lights and you want to illuminate the biggest possible area. You would want the "beams" of light to have the maximum spread so you don't want them to be aimed the same way. You'll want to turn and twist them on all 3 axis so they aren't parallel and aimed in the same exact direction.

Here's an image that illustrates the signal of each of your patch antennas. In 3D it would look more like a bubble, but this only shows you a vertical and horizontal slice.
8dbipatch-1.gif


Now if you imagine two of these bubbles next to each other, you wouldn't want them overlapping so much. You can cover a much bigger area if you angle them away. In your pictures you've twisted your antenna on both the X an Y axis, but have turned them on the third z axis.

Maybe someone can come along and articulate it better.
 
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I've seen some people using one stock antenna and one ALFA.

it would seem like a good idea--gets you best of both worlds.

What do you guys think of that config?
 
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I've seen some people using one stock antenna and one ALFA.

it would seem like a good idea--gets you best of both worlds.

What do you guys think of that config?
That's what I do with an FPV monitor for another drone. It makes sense. Depends what you need it for.
 
my concern would be to use directional antennas and lose signal, because it is not aimed properly.
 
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my concern would be to use directional antennas and lose signal, because it is not aimed properly.
It's not like they send out a super tight beam. There should be plenty of wiggle room unless you fly behind yourself, in which case the solution is just to turn around.
 
I've seen some people using one stock antenna and one ALFA.

it would seem like a good idea--gets you best of both worlds.

What do you guys think of that config?
I tried that and it didn't work for me- range got worse but others have had better success.
 
How you aim them depends on what they are for and what's under the covers. In one of the 'how to install it' video for the WiFi cards the guy refers to them as transmit and receive antennas. If that is the case then you would want them both 'pointed' right at the vehicle. Pointing means that the vehicle should be on an extended normal to the flat surface of each which requires that the flat surfaces should be parallel which they are in all three pictures so any should work but you'd have to hold the controller at an awkward angle in the first picture. Or as OP put it the logo should be pointed at the 'copter.

The other question is that of polarization. If the antennas are circularly polarized (you'd see a spiral if you took the cover off) then any of the last three pictures' orientations would be fine but if they are linearly polarized then their axis of polarization should be parallel to the antennas on the drone. This means either the second or third picture depending on whether the polarization is parallel to a line underscoring Alpha or perpendicular to that line. It is traditional to put an arrow near the input connector indicating the antenna's E field direction.
 
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How you aim them depends on what they are for and what's under the covers. In one of the 'how to install it' video for the WiFi cards the guy refers to them as transmit and receive antennas. If that is the case then you would want them both 'pointed' right at the vehicle. Pointing means that the vehicle should be on an extended normal to the flat surface of each which requires that the flat surfaces should be parallel which they are in all three pictures so any should work but you'd have to hold the controller at an awkward angle in the first picture. Or as OP put it the logo should be pointed at the 'copter.

The other question is that of polarization. If the antennas are circularly polarized (you'd see a spiral if you took the cover off) then any of the last three pictures' orientations would be fine but if they art linearly polarized then their axis of polarization should be parallel to the antennas on the drone. This means either the second or third picture depending on whether the polarization is parallel to a line underscoring Alpha or perpendicular to that line. It is traditional to put an arrow near the input connector indicating the antenna's E field direction.
They are patch antennas. Also, wifi base stations don't fly through the air, so advice on how to maximize throughput on an office or home wifi network is not always applicable. Because the alphas are directional antennas they cover a narrow angle of the ski than omnis (but they punch further). Therefore you DO NOT want them parallel. You want them canted to increase the area of coverage to compensate for their directionality. The antennas on the Solo are NOT circular polarized.
 
They are patch antennas.
Given the form factor they pretty much have to be but patch antennas can be circularly or linearly polarized. Consider the GPS antenna in your SOLO. It's circular. Also see 2.4 GHz 8 dBi LH Circular Polarized Patch Antenna - 12in N-Female Connector - HG2409PCL-NF. The fact that the case is slightly rectangular suggests that they are linearly polarized but we'd have to take the cover off to be sure.

Also, wifi base stations don't fly through the air, so advice on how to maximize throughput on an office or home wifi network is not always applicable.
The only advice being given here is as how to best close the link. This does result in higher throughput as fewer packets need to be resent (in either direction) but the goal here isn't higher throughput - it is greater link margin. That's an engineering term that may not be familiar but the meaning should be obvious. With higher link margin you have a better chance of not dropping the link if you fly behind a tree or over a hill and the link will stay closed at longer range.

Because the alphas are directional antennas they cover a narrow angle of the ski than omnis (but they punch further). Therefore you DO NOT want them parallel.
. Assuming the video to be correct (i.e. that one is for the uplink and one for the downlink) you definitely do want them parallel for the simple reason you want the transmitter at each end pointed at the receiver at the other end for both links. To return to your flashlight analogy: you don't have two flashlights at each end. You have one at each end and a detector at each end. You want the flashlights pointed at the detectors and the detectors pointed at the flashlights. The antenna axes should be parallel.

Now if you have evidence that this is a diversity system please pass that along as I can't find any. The cards are made by some Latvian company and the only info I can get on them is the type of connector and the remark in the video that the two ports are for Tx and Rx. In a diversity system the radio optimally combines the inputs from the two ports irrespective of the pointing. In that case if you have two 10 dbi antennas both pointed right at the drone you would get effectively 13 dbi gain out of the array but you could take less than that if you wanted broader coverage in solid angle at the expense of broader coverage in range.

You want them canted to increase the area of coverage to compensate for their directionality.
As just explained that reduces the area of coverage because you are throwing away margin.


The antennas on the Solo are NOT circular polarized.
I can't find the post that suggested they were but no, they are linear and that does bring up another point. As I said in #8 the e-fields from the Alphas must be aligned with the antennas on the drone. These are in the legs which are not quite parallel. Thus the Alphas should be rotated as in the 4th picture but with the lines between the SMA and the L's in 'Alpha' at 5 o'clock and 6 o'clock assuming the E direction is from SMA to L. If it is perpendicular to that then the L's should be at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock.

You ought to be able to figure out which orientation is correct by linking up to the drone with it on a non conductive table or bench facing you and far enough away that RSSI is not against the rail. Rotate one of the antennas about the SMA connector. If you don't see any change in RSSI as you do this rotate the other. If you don't see any change there either then the antennas are circular and it doesn't matter which way you orient them (as long as they are both pointed at the SOLO.) If you do see a drop then slowly adjust the antenna which shows it to minimum RSSI. You are now cross polarized. Rotate the antenna 90 ° from the cross polarized position and set the other one to be symmetrical.
 
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I've seen some people using one stock antenna and one ALFA.

it would seem like a good idea--gets you best of both worlds.

What do you guys think of that config?

Under the assumption that one antenna is for the uplink and the other for the downlink (which seems a reasonable assumption because were it a diversity system we would expect the modem maker to trumpet that in his sales brochure but he doesn't) this won't work. You will have more margin in the link in which you installed the high gain antenna but the other would break under the same conditions it always did. In fact upon a little reflection it's pretty clear that you'd have the worst of both worlds. If you get too far away the monopole to monopole link breaks even though there is plenty of margin the the monopole to ALFA link and if you fly into the side or back lobes of the ALFA you will lose the link in which the ALPHA is installed even though there may be plenty of margin in the monopole to monopole link.

If, OTOH, it is a diversity system then there would be an advantage in that if you mispointed the ALPHA the system would switch to the monopole and if you were still in range the link would remain patent.
 
Under the assumption that one antenna is for the uplink and the other for the downlink (which seems a reasonable assumption because were it a diversity system we would expect the modem maker to trumpet that in his sales brochure but he doesn't) this won't work. You will have more margin in the link in which you installed the high gain antenna but the other would break under the same conditions it always did. In fact upon a little reflection it's pretty clear that you'd have the worst of both worlds. If you get too far away the monopole to monopole link breaks even though there is plenty of margin the the monopole to ALFA link and if you fly into the side or back lobes of the ALFA you will lose the link in which the ALPHA is installed even though there may be plenty of margin in the monopole to monopole link.

If, OTOH, it is a diversity system then there would be an advantage in that if you mispointed the ALPHA the system would switch to the monopole and if you were still in range the link would remain patent.
My understanding is that the Solo uses a 2x2 (2 ant on Solo and 2 on the controller) configuration of the Mu-Mimo WiFi standard. So both antenna transmit and receive at the same time.
 
My understanding is that the Solo uses a 2x2 (2 ant on Solo and 2 on the controller) configuration of the Mu-Mimo WiFi standard. So both antenna transmit and receive at the same time.
That's correct.
 
Assuming the video to be correct
That would be a bad assumption.

Look. I'm not just throwing out random advice and I'm not going to engage in a point by point back and forth with you. A lot of folks have experimented with the Alphas on the solo. Flip them down, but not a full 90 degrees. Skew/rotate them out a bit to cover the largest swath of sky. That will give you the best range and coverage. They are linear. As are the antennas on the Solo. Interestingly enough, you'll get even better range and performance from circular polarized antennas on the controller from FPVLR - you wouldn't think it, but that's just the way it is.
 
My understanding is that the Solo uses a 2x2 (2 ant on Solo and 2 on the controller) configuration of the Mu-Mimo WiFi standard. So both antenna transmit and receive at the same time.
The fact that the cards support 802.11n should have been enough to tell me that beam forming is taking place. What this means is that whatever you give the system to work with in terms of antennas it will form the best beam it can and aim that at the drone. Thus if you decide to cock ALPHAs 60° apart and aim the centers at the SOLO you should get the 3dB losses back. But if you aim them both at the SOLO you will get 6db beam gain over and above the gain of the antenna. So it is a trade. If you want maximum solid angle coverage at the expense of range, cock them. If you want maximum range at the expense of solid angle of coverage then point both at the SOLO.

With respect to the polarization orientation check by monitoring RSSI as you rotate: that still should work if one of the antennas is removed from the controller (preventing the card from just shutting off the test antenna when it is cross polarized). I'd try it were it not for the 2 ft of snow out in the yard.
 
That would be a bad assumption.

Apparently so.

Look. I'm not just throwing out random advice and I'm not going to engage in a point by point back and forth with you.
Why not? Aren't we here to learn? Jubair's reply pointed me to 802.11n which was most helpful. If asked I probably would have guessed .g.You are not willing to do the same as Jubair?

A lot of folks have experimented with the Alphas on the solo. Flip them down, but not a full 90 degrees. Skew/rotate them out a bit to cover the largest swath of sky. That will give you the best range and coverage.
No, actually it won't. As explained in my last post, there is a trade. You can have wide angular coverage or long range but not both. I do, however, agree that if you don't understand the basic principles well enough to understand why that is true further discussion would probably be fruitless.

They are linear.
Apparently you know something I don't. That's the kind of info I am seeking. If you can point me to the spec sheet that says 'polarization vertical' that would be great.

As are the antennas on the Solo.
That is obvious.


Interestingly enough, you'll get even better range and performance from circular polarized antennas on the controller from FPVLR - you wouldn't think it, but that's just the way it is.
Anyone who understands how these things work and has the specs on the antennas (which FPVLR publishes) wouldn't be the least bit surprised that this is the case. If you want the explanation I will gladly supply it.
 
They finally plowed my driveway so I was able to get out of the house and try the RSSI monopole rotation test. That would probably work in an anechoic chamber but it doesn't work very well in a snow trough with cars around. RSSI was as good with the monopole pointed at the drone as when it was parallel to the leg and better with it perpendicular to the leg. This is, of course, because of reflections. In the real world there is no such thing as linear polarization. It is a mathematical idealization. When the drone is in flight it is doubtless more closely approached and so orientation is still important. It just doesn't look as if we can learn much about it by a test on the ground unless you have access to a chamber. Even if you did it would probably be easier to just ask the manufacturer which way the e-field points.
 
So....I'm just going to point one forward and point one 45 degrees up towards the sky. And if I do one of those shots straight above me, point the 45 degree one straight up.
 
You don't even have to do that. Just point them both so they are aimed at the horizon when you are holding the controller comfortably as you would do in flight. The reason for this is that the antenna, according to the plots posted earlier, has sufficient gain even directly overhead. Calling the combination of the free space path loss and antenna gain with the SOLO directly overhead and the antenna pointed directly at it 0 db the loss with the antenna pointed at the horizon is 18 dB. That's within a dB of the loss at 2250 ft range with the SOLO at 400 ft and the antenna pointed right at it. The loss vs range curve is pretty flat. The farther out you go the greater the FSPL (increases as 20 times the log of the distance) but the further out you go the lower the elevation and the higher the antenna gain when pointed at the horizon. If you tip either up you should tip them both up but not by too much because that will cost you range but will give you more margin close in and high. Or you could just tilt the controller up a few degrees when close in. Or, if you set the antennas up a bit relative to the horizon just rock the controller down a few degrees when far away.

Note that if you do lose lock directly overhead the drone will go to RTH and start to descend. By the time it is down to 200 ft the signal strength will be 6 dB higher than it was and lock should be returned. If it comes down to 100 ft you will pick up another 6 dB (12 relative to 400 ft). Your first instinct upon loss close in should be to aim the controller/antenna assembly at the drone.
 
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