Aerial Imaging

Thank you for this. You may find 10 seconds between shots is better otherwise at 5 seconds your video will be interrupted 20 -25 % of the time.
 
I'm not too worried about the video, I just want to be able to frame the shot. I'm really after single RAW frames, I'll probably add a GoPro for if/when I actually need video output. I'm looking at this more as an aerial photography platform. I live along the cost and there are lots of shots that will benefit from a little elevation. But still not a bad thought. 10 seconds isn't too long to wait, and I'll usually only need 5-10 minutes tops to get the shots I want.

Good luck, look forward to seeing what you come up with.
 
The 41 megapixels is impressive, but it still suffers with fine detail which is just a function of the smallish sensor. I am going to try the RX100 some but expect to use an a5000 or a5100 with 16 or 20mm lens. The APS-C sensor is much better at resolving fine detail even if it's only 20-24 MP. That's my take anyway.
 
I think 20 -24 MP is plenty. It becomes a weight vs image gain issue with these little Quadcopters. And I would prefer a bigger sensor. But yet, the file attached is a 12 MP Gopro Hero 4 Black image with a Peau 3.97 lens. Not bad for an under 4oz camera. Good for Real Estate photography.DCIM\100GOPRO\GOPR0784.
 
Depending on what exactly your doing with it as to what will work vs what's best. I can only speak for what we are using for mapping. We have used Canon S100, Sony QX1, Sony A5100, Nikon D750 and the Ricoh GR2. The aircraft range from Solo to larger fixed wings. Each camera has its own good points. We go to great lengths to use cameras with global shutters as rolling shutter induces blur from the motion of flight. These days most of our crews prefer the Ricoh because you can put it in Manual Mode and lock down the settings. We believe that we get better imagery with it as well. Another huge thing is the write speed to the card, the Ricoh writes really fast and the Sonys are slow. Hope this helps a bit.
 
The 41 megapixels is impressive, but it still suffers with fine detail which is just a function of the smallish sensor. I am going to try the RX100 some but expect to use an a5000 or a5100 with 16 or 20mm lens. The APS-C sensor is much better at resolving fine detail even if it's only 20-24 MP. That's my take anyway.
Smallish sensor?? The Nokia 808 sensor is a 1/1.2 and the Nokia 1020 is a 1/1.5 sensor. Ya the Sony does have a bigger sensor, and weighs a lot more than the Nokia does. The 808 still has the ability to have a live feed.
 
David, yes great for real estate where you deliver maybe 1600 px wide images. I've been flying a Phantom 3 Pro for a little while for that use. Midday with great light it does the job, and most people can't tell the difference anyway. But as a photographer, the smaller sensor on those show it's limitation pretty clearly to me anyway.
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I have an RX100 MkIII coming that I'll probably use similarly and get rid of the Phantom. I also have access to a Hero 4 Black if I want to use the normal integration. The real reason I'm excited though is to use a larger sensor for images in tough lighting like sunrise/sunset and be able to print medium / large prints off it.

UvRpSd


Scrub, to that point I wasn't knocking the Nokia, it's pretty darn impressive, but there's a big difference in lower light between 1" (roughly) and APS-C sensors. Doesn't show as much in video, but it does in an edited still photo. It's the same reason I'm getting an RX100, but a A5000 (and maybe A5100 down the road as well.

Otherwise, quick update. The stock HDMI cable's end is oriented wrong for the A5000. I can get it attached, but barely and it forced the camera to be at an angle that the lens extends below the legs. Looks like i'll be ordering leg extenders and the upgraded flex HDMI cable. The RX100 looks to be oriented the other way, so it should work better when it arrives. With the A5000 I couldn't figure out how to turn on the LCD as well as HDMI, I think the A5100 is more robust in that regard but not sure. Wasn't that hard to look at phone and adjust settings though. Hopefully I can get this flying at some point and get some samples.

Edit: A5100 does have the same Info Off setting that I tested with the A7II yesterday. Per Cinema5d: "...bear in mind that when you connect the micro HDMI cable to an external recorder, the camera LCD screen will turn black, UNLESS you set up the camera menu in “HDMI settings”to “HDMI info display-OFF” for using an external recorder..."
 
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Using a Sony HX90V with GPS and interferometer app. Next will be the 6000, but I'm not confident enough as a drone operator as yet!
 
Using a Sony HX90V with GPS and interferometer app. Next will be the 6000, but I'm not confident enough as a drone operator as yet!
For what it's worth, I'd recommend the A5100. Same sensor, same IQ and you'll save about 100 grams. Only reason I'd get the A6000 is if you needed the flash hot shoe for work off the drone.
 
A5100 looks pretty good as long as it outputs a video feed and has a interval photo setting. It appears to have an interval setting with an app. does the app have to be in communication with the camera though. I don't want to buy a camera that is not exactly what I'm looking for but the A5100 looks very good.
 
Today is a very exciting day... I've never gotten excited about drone and the small sensor output. I actually looked at Solo's before I got me Phantom 3, but somehow missed the HDMI out. I always figured it would cost $2K + to fly a larger sensor...

Still some wrinkles that need worked out, but flew the Solo with A5000 and kit 16-50 (425g) a bit ago using the Sony app. You can see some samples here: Aerials I did downsize to 4000 px wide since I cropped one, but you can still see a better image. Used MF, and think I may have focused a bit too far away, I'll have to work on that.

David: Atomos and Wooden camera make a 12" coiled Micro USB cable. i think I'm going to replace the stock which should solve that problem. I was able to get a bit more slack, but the stiffness of the stock HDMI cable off the main board is workable but seems to pass a lot of vibration which is documented elsewhere. I do want to be able to use the Gimbal at times though since I think this is going to replace my Phantom, so I'll have to see about mixing and matching (or I'll just buy a second for the price?)

Sony's Timelapse App worked great (I've used it before but a few features were quite useful here). It's a $9.99 app that installs on the camera, not on the phone. You can setup your parameters (10 second interval worked great), then press the shutter to start the sequence as you take off. The screen displays a countdown to the next shot which shows on the phone screen. I found this pretty helpful, I set the gimbal at a little more down angle than ideal. With the timer counting down, I was able to fly forward or backward right before the photo and change the camera angle ~ 5-10 degrees which framed a few shots better than how it was oriented while hovering. The exposure does seems to stay fixed through out the exposures. There is a bulb ramping mode in the app, but I don't know if it'll adjust every shot or if it's linear, will have to test. That did make the sunken boat need about 1 stop of exposure compensation and a bit of shadow lift. That said, if you know what you're shooting you can fly in any PSAM modes so you can fix exposure pretty easily, or figure then dial in exposure settings. Other wrinkle that I haven't solved, unlike the go pro, there isn't a way I can find to flip the orientation of the read out, so if you mount it upside down without a cage, you have to get used to flying mirrored from your display. I tended to maneuver looking at the bird, then fine tune framing before getting the shot I wanted.

All in all It's not a seamless experience, but flying a RAW capable large sensor camera for this price is pretty amazing.
 
I think you'll like it. Did some more testing yesterday, first off double check your focus, it's easy to bump the ring… that said, I realize that the app does have auto exposure tracking, so you can deal with changing exposure situations. I think I have a good idea how to build a small rig to hold the camera right side up, since you can't flip the HDMI. I'll post pictures later on this week once I figure out all the details.
 
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I wonder if the Optical Stabilization System ( OSS ) in the kit lens could be causing you to think you may have been a bit out of focus. The vibrations on the aircraft may be such that the system does more harm than good. Camera should arrive in about 5 hours :)
 
It's possible, I think the problem is less vibration than it is the aircraft maneuvering to hold position. In flight adjustments are pretty quick and erratic. I looked at sunset photos more, some were good, some showed clear motion blur in one direction at 1/60. So it'll pay to take 4-5 shots in a spot if you have an angle you really want to capture. Look forward to hearing what you think about the A5100.
 
Old DIY Drones post had discussion of taping the lens when it was focused so vibrations would not cause it to move. Kit lens seems to be regarded as O.K. but 20mm lens is better and lighter by a couple ounces. I Don't plan to take anything to begin with at less than 1/1000 of a second. I may try a higher ISO to see how the sensor handles it and a f stop around 8 for more depth of field. Time lapse app is loaded and I'm playing around with that today by hand to see what range of focus I have at various settings. Solo gimbal plus Hero 4 Black is 350 grams. 5100 plus Solo Gopro static mount is 430 or so. My old S110 camera and mount was 390 plus the Gopro mount ( same as 5100) . I should be in good shape. You have been a big help. Thanks
 
Sure thing, good idea to tape focus, I don't think vibration changed it, but mounting the camera you might bump it. I wouldn't be afraid of 1/500, a lot of my daylight shots were there at f/5.6 and I didn't see vibration issues, also ISO in auto mode stayed at 100, so I'd probably pin it there for daytime and maybe 200 for night time. It is probably just the sensor lens combo, I've been shooting full frame primes for a while, so my eyes are trained a bit different. Also will need to test the lens, I'd think f/5.6 would be fine as long as the corners sharpen up. The 20mm is a great lens, I used to shoot it regularly. I'll probably save $100 to start and get the Sigma but wouldn't hesitate to recommend the 20 either. The Sony 16 is better than it's reputation but it's not a sharpness monster. Does have good flare / back light resistance from whats reported though.

Look forward to samples!
 

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