Recent content by bassmission

£60 + P&P to London?

I'm interested in a RB gimbal...in the UK - still available?

Great! Glad it worked :)

There's a chance the same procedure of the Solo battery recalibration would also work on a P2 battery: 3DR Solo - Smart Battery Calibration — Copter documentation

You are spot on. After disconnecting the IMX board and also the cube itself and discovering the problem remained, I pulled the power leads from the back right motor (chosen at random) and then tried to power it up and it booted up fine! New clockwise motor pod sourced and on way, hopefully that...

Just tried disconnecting the ESC ribbon cables and the IMX board and when powering up it still shuts itself down as before. This has me properly stumped as I've effectively changed or disconnected all the possible components and it is still shutting itself down after swapping the main board for...

I was doing a shoot with my solo whilst it started to rain very lightly. Against my better judgement I continued to fly for a minute or two before landing without issue but afterwards I noticed the Solo would not remain powered up when I put a fresh battery in. (I press the power button, battery...

Nope. You need a 5200mAh 4s battery if you want to match the original spec. e.g. Tattu 5200mAh 14.8V 35C 4S1P Lipo Battery Pack with XT60 plug

Has anyone looked into using these files to print a new battery case yet? I've only just built my first printer but it's on my list of things to try soon: bateria solo 3dr -3dr solo battery by Juanjojjjjjj

Worth bearing in mind that a fully charged solo battery is going to have a voltage about 2-3V higher than a depleted one, so if you're using a fully charged intermediate (4S) one wired in parallel you will start charging up the depleted battery without any current limiting, until you pull the...

These are the power settings I found online: USA 1000mw UK 100mw AU 200mw JP 200mw I've also tested my artoo controller output with a power meter and the US setting is definitely the most powerful.

Have you tried just adding a very long delay at the end of the initial code, so that it basically leaves the battery info up on the screen for you to read, using the initial valid data? That's how I initially got the info up on the screen before going for the full AVR reset hack in my code to...

just crocodile clips for now

Glad some other people are making progress! I managed to kill my OLED screen somehow so haven't got much further! @dneelands - if you have some copper tape, I made some pretty reliable connectors using cut up credit card, adding a few extra layers of copper tape until the connection was tight...

Easily done! I2C devices are apparently quite fiddly in this regard...I certainly had lots of issues with intermittent connections on the breadboard, wire lengths and resistor requirements... Video should now be available: